ylwgtr2

im in....providing i can get my shit together

Your a fcktard...go away and learn how to spell....and your post doesnt make any sense......could it be MD?

290klms (displayed on dash) wangan tunnel,R33 GTR

how much would you sell your whole for inark?....actually...im not interested,its done too many klms

your weak....

why would you do that???You think your in a bad situation????take a look at my thing 8mnths ago.....I mean all the things you have to do to the car i am sure you already knew before you got your hands on it

for those who are "fudging"invoices....i hope you get caught.....

yeah i will be taking it to the track...i just need to buy an oil cooler

is this still for sale?

first of all Doughboy...i havent eaten since i started work on the car...first thing was to get food into me ...nah actually it was a servo so i took a couple of pics.....mesh,i cant really say i was please with the service of ANY anodising place,the jobs they do may be great but the service was terrible(i didnt even get one part completed from them)so i done it myself in the end.......the exhaust sounds great however a tad noisey but this can be adjusted with driving habits....i have past a few of the boys in blue,but you just have to judge the gear and throttle position and its not the vile......the air intake sensor on these vehicles are at the right hand side of the intercooler tank....between the turbos and the intake manifold...that pic i took was after the vehicle had been running for well over an hour,i was quite amazed...thats why i took that pic...but last night was quite chilly

well its all pretty much finished now...just a few small odds and ends to do but its now getting used on a daily basis and boy does it have some grunt!Check out the intake temps provided by the huge trust intercooler!however it was quite a cold night but i think i works quite well.I hope people have enjoyed this thread and learnt a thing or two......Never give up!

its called an igniter

why dont you jump start under the bonnet instead of going direct to the battery?Check your fusible links....they may be blown...

im pretty close to your area.....i can come take a quick look if you want my opinion

oh when i make them i use 70x25mm box section and make it in 2 sections so you can get it in the door....then i join the two peices up by using 3 peices of 20x20 stacked on top of each other and i make those slide into each peice by about half the length of each 70x25 box section(telescopic)....then i weld it all up in place and by the time youve welded them it takes up the 7mm diffrence in the 3 peices of 20x20(20x3 =60...inside of main intrusion bar is around 67mm)make any sense?Why dont you do them yourself?You say you are a panel beater by trade,shouldnt be too hard for you......As it is your safety thats is at stake,and its usually only the rh glass that needs to be done...you could change the other side if you want to be anal and keep them both the same

you can get them from isaso ...but i usually make them myself

when you say engine light....do you mean the yellow check engine light?

at a guess id say intrusion bars,ulp filler neck,child restraints,new cat,flat right mirror glass,tyre+emmision placards and possibly seat belts

1#engine

call neil at bob binks ford/nissan and buy some new ones...he is VERY helpfull for all parts

sorry i disgree.....It would make no diffrence....if you want to see if the cams are bent....you should be using a dial indicator

dunno if the GTIR gearboxs are the same(i assume they are)....if they are....dont bother....they are crap....i have one with noisy bearings here if thats any good to you....

well heres what you do......if the cam is non returnable and you cant get a 34 sensor(and you will need the loom section coz its a diffrent plug connector) ,you put your engine at TDC(with the old cam and sensor in)Mark the disc on the sensor and the housing with a permanant marker take it off and knock the pin out off the locator and remove the end peice....then machine up a collar that fits in the new cam and file the slots in it...then fit the new cam in put it back to TDC and align the marks on the Sensor and disc.Fit the machined up collar in the cam and put a touch of super glue on the shaft of the sensor put it in and align the marks you put on the disc and the housing and wait for the glue to take affect.....then carefully remove the sensor and put a sribe on the shaft and machined up collar.....knock off the collar and drill your dowl pin hole in the machined up collar to match up the one on the shaft and your away!Its a bit elaborate and i have to do it a number of times.....takes about 30 mins or so... hope that makes some sort of sence

130 from nissan for a new shroud.....use your blades and motor if there not squashed.....

or 3....modding the sensor like i did....