ylwgtr2

yes...fit it on the fork...then after youve bolted the gearbox up...pull the fork foward until it goes "click"

i have RSR springs....

its said with an L....cefelo

oh and to add.....it produces an awsome howling sound when you stand on it ....but i broke the rear CV on the tailshaft on the test drive so couldnt really test it out good

the under body wont allow it(spare wheel well,hangers no clearance to run the pipe under the suspension craddle cant fit the diffuser back on if its done any other way...and the list goes on...)and its not what i wanted anyway....

had to fit a couple of hotdogs in it to shut it up a bit.....no stainless ones in stock so i fitted steel ones to see if they would work how i wanted..... and they do so i have ordered some stainless ones...the steel ones were 70 each the stainless 150.....i figured i could afford to risk 140 to see if it works other than finding out 300 worth of dogs were going in the bin....

man that guys arse is wider than the truck

sparki is correct....i have had the same problem when my car was started and moved running on cold start and being shut down...then started ect

almost finished it today......I got the rear muffler section finished,dummied it up and started it.....sounds like a superbike ....still have to make up the hanger brackets....Due to the complexity of the lower suspension rear under body diffuser its a very tight fit i might rework one of the pipes over to the right side of the vehicle and back under the spare wheel well to stop it being so vulnerable.....heres a pic of the rear muffler unit that i made today....And yes that was my car at onduty panels on sommerville rd....i am suffering from severe TIG UV sunburn now so i am going to chuck some afterburn lotion on

ask snowman

well today saw the 3/4 of the rear section made...the whole lot should be finished tomorrow

Use cat plates from a VN commodore......get them from an exhaust place....alternatively you can cut them out with a plasma cutter

Im about a month late....but here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=48275

that looks like rub marks....it can be buffed up properly ....but its hard to see from a picture

Not sure what you mean by 350Z style..... I will post more pics of the system as it get fabricated....i think we should wait untill you get your car...then we will do the match up as i am not to keen on playing with same one elses bumpers(neither would they be )...dont worry too much about it chinny...we will get them to fit nicely......Aaron....personally i would be using new flange plates and make sure they are the same size as your pipe....having said that if your dump is x size...then it should be that size......make sure your welding them with a Tig or at least a Mig welder....If using a Mig turn your wire feed down as low as possible and the current as high as you can get it without burning a new arse in the pipe....and make sure your cuts and joins are a tight/butt up fit to each other....use a drop saw or band saw to cut the pipes,this way the cuts will be true to each other.I would try to avoid using a Mig for pipes....the only Mig welder i used that would be suitable for a top notch finish was a Migtronic brand....I have to say this thing was awsome.Its activation switch was a micro switch the gave a 3 second delay between wire feed on the initial push so it would purge the job with argon before it striked,then once it striked you had a wire feed speed knod on the torch so you could feed more wire or less wire depending on the gap between the pipes...however it cost the guy 8 grand....a small Inverter such as a Caddy Tig can be bought for about 1500 new from BOC....oh and aaron,make sure you weld it properly,we wouldnt want it to leak...just have a go on a few peices of scrap first

in short....it will be noisy

I decided to make a dual system for the car.....I have bought 10 X 90 degree stainless bends and 6 metres of stailess pipe to do the job....i may need to get some more bends but what i have will get me started....I have also bought 6 dual pipe flange plates and 2 catalytic converters and two mufflers......the pipe size is 2 1/2 inch....first part of the job is to bolt the flanges on the turbo dumps and cut the bends up to make the front pipe,then we tig weld them all together....heres a few pics of the front pipe being made....

bob binks nissan in footscray for new parts....

first of all thanks geoff......and to answer mesh's question....a rebirth is when a damaged vehicle with an ADR tag is donated to use its identity is used on a completly new body shell...To give you an example.....lets say i bought a Damaged CC lancer.....then i bought an EVO1,2 or 3 that has been stripped totally (but i was giving all the parts with the shell)Now we all know that evo series were imports so now lets start "rebuilding"the damaged cc lancer.......Now first we will use the EVO body shell,next we will install the trim.....well the CC lancer dash pad is the same....which one do we use???who knows which one is which when there both sitting on the floor.....lets put in the cluster....oh hang on...the CC lancer has a dimmer switch....lets use the dimmer switch....lets use the seat belts from the CC lancer aswell and the child restraints.....you get the picture?At the end of the day....the only diffrent parts are the belts,child restraints,dimmer switch,MAYBE intrusion bars in the doors,tyre/ULP/emmision placards for the relevant engine(4G63 Galant VR4 engine),RH mirror glass....and thats all,now get an engineers report to validate the fitted componants and....thats what a rebirth/rebuild is.....oh and no you dont fit the compliance plate or alter the VIN number....doing that is norty!Now people often complain after they bought a rebuilt vehicle saying they didnt know....well that is just too bad because anyone that wants to buy such a vehicle an EVO or whatever model it may be,should have enough brains in there head to know that these vehicle were not available from the dealers new.....i mean how else would they be here....did santa pull them out of his sack?

I could point you in the right direction depending on your whereabouts....

i could make you a pipe set....but i only use stainless pipe...in regards to fitting a front mount intercooler...theres no way around getting heavy with the front bumper reo...sorry but it must be done....

thankyou again duncan...and in actual fact in regards to the way that the vehicle had been repaired prior to my repair....the left hand rail tore off the bulkhead in its entirety(spelling check there!)...the rail was fairly straight considering the damage on the vehicle but came off due to the bird crap weld that was on there...now thats poor workmanship.......chassis rails skirts ect are offered as spare parts...why are they offered if its not right to change them?Which is stronger a spot weld or a correctly welded mig weld?Bent then straightened parts have been stressed.....there is nothing wrong unspotting these parts before the damaged parts and replacing them........Does this also mean that the number of vehicles that are constructed under the I.C.V rule (which i have also built in the past)which are to be approved by a member of IE australia (of which i have done fabrication work for a number of these members) are structurely unsound?Or what about building a 3/4 or full chassis under a vehicle?The reason for this post is to educate people on how a quality job is done and i have nothing to hide regarding my vehicle.....Damn this is getting like when a dog piss's on my bike tyre.....i kick his bum and rub his face in the pool,but he still does it again

I bought one new for my 34...34 and 33 are the same ...it was 450 new....wreckers wanted 600

are you after the dash pad????I have one

i have a pair....pm me if you still need them