ylwgtr2

i have spoken to these people in the past and they ARE a sub standard place or were.......i saw this happening a mile off.......My view on these people is not bias due to this thread nismoid.....

unfortunately this is what happens when people get involved in a trade when they have absolutely no idea...what happened to "our staff worked for nismo...were the best blah blah blah"I am interested to see what BMT or ex BMT people have to say about this incident.....Its really bad what has happened to you but i would say youve been screwed and youve lost out....Looks like youve been blinded by all the shit and glitter that has plagued the modified car industry of late and got done over.......most business that goes on in this country is a joke and its only a matter of time till the huge numbers of these second class shops get found out and go out of business unfortunatley taking some peoples money with them.....

Once again another update....Now the bulk of the repair is complete and the smaller repairs have been done and hifilled the whole body is sanded with 240 dry and its masked up and hifilled in full heres a couple of pics ..will have some more tomorrow of underbody sealers and rubber under body coating being applied

having worked for engineers in the past,what i have learned is that you would have to change the engine back....emissions data that was gathered for the engine in question is or at least at the time i was in the know was irrelevent when the engine had been put into another vehicle because of the weight diffrence of the 2 vehicles...also diffrent fuel tanks(evaporative systems) in the two vehicles would alter the emissions data....if the car is tuned right you could send it to ford and get a full shed test and if it passes youd be laughing...but i think it was 2500-3000 when i sent mine there about a year or so ago...this info may be incorrect on todays standards but megalla is right in saying check with an engineer

i have a better idea....why dont you go and buy some 2k primer,hardener,sand paper,prepsol,tackrag and some 2k paint and hardener and paint it yourself....Then you might.....a)Totally **** the job up......b)Realise that the materials that you would buy would way out cost the price that you were originally quoted.....the thing you guys really have to realise is that business is not a charity and the guy is not going to get rich from doing that job.......$230 is peanuts these days,some people would easily torch that on a night out on the grog.....Most shops may not even touch the job or wont spend the time needed for a nice job coz there just aint enough money in it....just take it and get it done or put up with it

I am in melbourne ...I will be doing a thread on both wet and dry carbon products as soon as i get some spare time....It would be interesting for you all to see how its done,how much work goes into it and more importantly how much it actually costs.I may not be covering the moulding process but that depends on if i can find anything else that i would like to mould as i have already made the moulds and i didnt take any pics....look out for it in the future Cheers

Lead loading is a thing of the past....not many people have the patience to do it these days ....although its the right thing to do in spots that get flexed such as door pillars ect....body filler is quite good these days but in these spots it may eventually crack or fall off......All panel shops are most likely to have a spot welder which welds on brass pins for pulling...i like the magna spot coz its a portable unit but it but low on grunt for the thicker gauge material but its great for door and 1/4 skins.My repair process takes a bit longer than shops method only due to extra care on feathering out and a few other bits and peices but everyone does things diffrently i guess...there are a few cheats you can do to cut down time but good preparation = a good and long lasting paintjob so id rather take extra care now than pay later...after all..you dont want to do this to a car twice

hey shan!If you see in an earlier post it shows how they are attached using the magna spot...this is how we pull the ding out without drilling holes ect...the pins just snap off when pulled at right angles so we do our pulling out the just snap em off when were done

ok update on the job....heres the left 1/4 stripped back and the magna spot pins on and being pulled....after we finish we can either use a light skim of filler or lead load the panel....filler well everyone knows how to do that but to lead load it we warm it up and "tin" the surface first by rubbing it with steelwool and white spirits....then we heat up the lead and wipe it on with a peice of wood/masonite and smooth it out the trick is to get a feel of the melting point of the lead while waving the heat ever so gently over the panel....then file out the application marks and sand it over nicely....after filled or lead loaded we put a black sight coat over it and speed file it down to see if its high,low or on the money....then we feather out the old paint nicely and spray hifill over the repair....the engine bay is rubbed down and hifilled also

Ok no pics but i have finished all the spot repairs,small dents.First ground all the old poop from the left hand 1/4 panel that had been applied in a previous repair,nice shape work was done i have to admit but i took it all out and pulled it into shape with the magna spot and had to shrink it in a few places due to stretching of the metal.Ended up getting it where i was happy so and then went around and high filled the spot repairs and the main repairs.Giving it 5 days or so to settle in nicely then on tuesday i will sand the whole car down.Then i will apply a few wet coats of White high fill.Then we let that dry on the body for 3 or 4 days while we wet sand the engine bay and apply the colour to it and the under dash section....the reason why we use white under yellow is that yellow doesnt cover that well and if we use grey underneath it will shift the colour too much.The next step is to give the body a nice wet rub and then paint it using a solid 2 pack colour.Then we let it go off for a week or 2 then give it a rub with 800 wet and apply a base coat of yellow then give it a couple of nice coats of good quality clear.If we are really anal we then rub the clear down and flow coat it using clear again...this procedure results in a very flat glassy deep paint finish and because its a clear over base...it lasts longer than solid.Also this is easier said than done as getting dust in the paint is a big issue..i mean the aim of the game is to leave the car off the gun...no polishing.Also when flow coating a job.....its very easy to get runs!!!!But the results are staggering....will post pics if people are still interested Cheers

he must have been...looks like he spilt grog all over his shirt

$3500

the ecu doesnt really have anything to do with it as there is other module units in the car that control the vehicles drive system......By taking the fuse out you have cleared out the Drive system module codes that would have been stored due to some sort of malfunction that has occured in the system at one stage...once its recognised an error it will flash the light and hold the code in memory...once the battery or fuse is pulled out it resets it....So 1st stage of finding the problem is to clear out the code....and see if it comes back....but you obviously already know that

i can make real ones....but they are not cheap

Thankyou guys for the comments...although i havent posted to get praise,jobs or a pat on the back...just hope that some people can learn something from what i am doing and that these jobs are possible and give an insight as to how they are done correctly.I will continue to post the process of preperation right through to the paintwork if you guys would like to see....It was a struggle finding a place to work on the car and do the job let alone the time to do it aswell,the car is in airport west at a friends shop.........the job is playing on my mind at the moment and i really need to get it done....I have done all the work myself and it really testing my patience but i am in the home stretch now....the end is near....

Is taking a fender off illegal???What about unspotting the radiator support panel??Or changing chassis rails???Door closing section and A pillar??Should i go on?All parts of a body shell are offered as spare parts new from the manufacturer...why do they offer them if its unsafe to take them apart and re spot them back together??Simple answer is it not unsafe.....I could have pulled the damage out and slapped bog over all the damaged and fatigued metal.....But i am guessing that you wouldnt want YOUR car repaired like this....neither do i. The vehicle is now safer than it used to be due to a prior shoddy repair(of which i was always gonna fix...this just made it happen a little sooner ) And the welds are stronger than a spot weld.In regards to the vin number.....In the old system a plate with an engraved 17 digit VIN number was rivitted on the firewall and the compliance plate was fitted on the coil support tower.....these digits dont match the chassis number at all....i beleive this is was changed about a year or so ago so the now the compliance plate reads the actual japanese VIN number with a few extra numbers added...you would have thought they would have done this from the start....Anyway as i said earlier the car was done at factory joins apart from the sill skin and the A pillar skin (of which is Brazed on as you can see in the A pillar repair pic)They are replacable skins and many panel beaters will cut and join these on a daily basis...so i ask....again where is the safety factor?I am the only owner of this car in this country and have owned this vehicle for over 2 years now and will keep the car for the rest of my life.....I trust my workmanship...noone else has to...if you dont like what i have done...dont ride in the car .....its that simple

you want the front diffuser off the Vspec or the bit between the diffuser and the bar?I have the diffuser and the mould for it....so i have moulded fibreglass ones,old clappered plastic one

pulling the dents and the finished pillar and sill panel

Ok time for an update....Now that the front structure is in place the next step is to fit all the panels and parts to insure that we have nice lines and gaps between all the parts and peices....As seen in the picture the lower tie bar is off the original front as GTR tie bars have a lower dip in them than the other model skylines...The airbox is also fitted as the inner skirt is slightly diffrent on the front i fitted,so i modified the skirt to suit...the GTR also has a clutch power booster so the offset braket had to be unpicked from the old front and spot welded into the new one....The A pillar skin has had a bit of trauma in the accident so next we sand the paint off and attach pulling pins by using the magna spot as seen in the picture.....these are copper pins that spot on to the panel and the slide hammer is attached to them so we can tug the dints out...the pins then snap off when pulled at right angles and the surface is buffed to remove the heat colour and dressed with a metal file for a filler free finish...if the surface has been stretched and cant be tapped or has been over pulled we shrink it by charging the metal in a number of places with the magna spot with a copper bolt attached to it....this must be done in a certain pattern and quenched with water using a spray bottle.The sill has been done and we put a squirt of sight primer with a little filler used on the spot welds to fill imperfections...more later

i need an aircon compressor and a dashpad for an R34 GTT..anyone got?

on duty panels....sam 93142647 in the west

For the GTR guys...Most definately stay away from the fibre clutchs....They smell and they fry as soon as you get stuck into the car.Go for a twin plate.I put a Nismo Gmax II twin plate set up and it was absolutely fantastic....drivability was great and it really bit between shifts....also it was heaps lighter that the original flywheel....i now have fitted an OS giken quad plate ...i still have the gmaxII if anyone is interested

i have a Ganador stainless system for a 34 you could try before you buy;)....that is if you havent already bought one!

anyone got one of these?

i have done a few convertible conversions...there not that hard.A great big X from corner to corner is the way to go crossing over at the centre member.A simple roll bar is ok for overhead protection,and brace the A pillar.