R31 drift pig

I will.... and the 15 other people who've said they wanted them haha. but Ill keep you in mind. I have no idea what Im going to do with wheels to be honest, Ill see what happens when I get it aligned and pull all of the camber out of the rear and if I need more grip. Might just need a decent semi in 235/40 and call it good. As a side note.... Lexan Windows. Its happening. And no electric windows is just one more system I can delete from the car.

black R32 GTR - GODZILR plates..... on the back of a tow truck. Hope nothing too serious?

And you got a black one too. To the OP, What colour is your car? Some bars look better in different colours.

First pic is how it used to look, was a complete driving car. Nearly 2 years later, Im slowly reassembling the whole car back together, and Im not done with the engine bay by any means, Still have to cut the wheel tubs out, and wire in the haltech. paint some more stuff black etc. But I'm getting there...

I have no arisen etcI run both cooler cores (Oil and power Steering) the same as above ^^^ (outlets both facing headlights though) I have no air con or anything up front though. I was taught to use them like that years ago, and Ive always done it since. Never had any issues doing it like so either.

Im biased but a series 1 Type M is my favourite..... and I have a series one Type m. For your series two... Series 3 GTR Bumper with matte black front lip.

So would I... but A) Im worried about damaging them, Might try looking for something not so hard to replace, and B)Ill need to buy at least 6 wheels, front steer pair and 2 x pairs for the rear, so once again, not so expensive. I may just end up buying another pair of 10.5 RPF1's, Ive looked at rota's/XXR's/Concave concepts etc, but my enkeis only weigh 8kg's, so it's a fair bit of unsparing weight to add.

Was the limit with the guard flare I had and ride height. Was rubbing still on a couple of harder turns at malalla. Even with dampers wound right up. Was also running pretty serious camber haha. Could have rolled/flared more and gone wider, but I didn't need/want to. 235/40 on a 10.5 is MY perfect size, as is 215/40 on a 9.5. 10.5's now have a 35mm spacer, and a 25mm up front, so am looking around at other wheel options, namely 12 inches wide, probable stay with 9.5 or maybe a 10 up front. Need to take some measurements etc after its aligned with the knuckles etc. in. I haven't taken any better pics, took one yesterday arvo in bad light, shows that something's getting done haha. Will take some better ones on the weekend out in the light.

The precise symptoms I was talking about. My 33, and a couple of other customers had the same issues after using motul. Not sure why.

Never had issues with shockproof, but have not used it in freshly rebuilt boxes. When I put my OS gears in I won't be using it.

Was Motul Turbolight 4100 10w40 in my sr, and motel 300v chrono 10w40 in my 33/rb25. Switched to penrite in the s14 and put in new lifters and changed to nulon in the 33 and all was good. I thought there may have been an underlying issue with the lifters in the 33, but the problem started from that oil change. Tuner said he had had the same issues with a couple of 33's he tunes/looks after.

Yep, me too. Only motul fluid i use is their RBF600 Brake fluid. Have had no issues with that whatsoever. Their oils on the other hand, cost me a couple of lifters in my 25, and also caused issues in my S14. Changed oils (And replaced lifters) and all was fine. My tuner used to stock motul, and had quite a few problems, and now he himself stocks and uses nulon. He also Carries ULX oils.

Ive used nulon 15w50 full syn. in my 33 for years. Ive never had an issue. Plenty of street driving, and a lot of track work. Im only about to switch to Penrite 10 Tenths due to switching to E85. I believe Nulon make a quality product. I also use their red coolant and power steering fluid. I use Redline Shockproof in my g/box and diff, but haven't looked at anything nulon offer for them yet. They'll be getting serviced before this rebuild is finished, so I might see what the have there. I had massive issues with motul oils before that, hence the change.

See the little "cock" at the front point of the mirror? Cut that flush with the rest of the leading edge. Thats it. I cut mine, but have yet to fill the little gap it left. It's on the to do list. Got the idea from adam and the run-it-hard boys and girls... Mine are just the $99 GKTech reps. Dash looks even better now it's painted and has all the racepak etc. mounted. Been busting ass all holidays, car is almost fully assembled, just got a few small jobs left to do and some touching up of paint and it's ready for wiring, cams and tuning. Will take some up to date pics when I head back to work monday, My iPhone (work phone) stopped working first day of holidays and there's been no-one around to sort out a new one. Been peaceful but.

So, Finally got it back home. Work starts first thing tomorrow morning. Clean up and paint interior, and start putting everything in, and get the car ready for wiring. The pictures make the cage look like its at funny angles...

Replied. Please don't ask me to seperate anything down further than what it is above, because I won't.

$3600. Comes with a free haltech. I won't seperate the dash.

These are the knuckles with tie rods and the tie rod ends Ill add some more pics of stuff over the next few days

Added some more pics of the parts i have on hand. All parts are for sale elsewhere as well.

Selling the following parts due to going to a Turboed LS based setup Rebuilt RB25 motor - CP Pistons/Camtech 264/268 9mm cams, HKS cam gear, Performance Springs valve springs, New OEM Lifters, Silicone Hoses, Nismo Thermostat, GKTech fan, RB25 Gearbox, Rebuilt Nismo GMAX twin plate clutch, Braided clutch line, urethane gearbox mount, Nismo pivot ball, Cams/cam gear/springs are uninstalled and new in boxes but I can have them fitted and setup, clutch is 500kms old after rebuild, had water pump and belt replaced 1000kms ago, engine is still in car, will be removed upon sale - $4500 the lot Trust TD06SL2-20G 10cm turbo (rebuilt by GCG), GReddy High-mount Stainless Manifold Modded for RB25 and RB26, Tial MV44 Wastegate, 1 piece dump/front, Braided lines - $2700 Brand new in boxes Haltech PS2000 ECU Street Kit part no.HT059001 Includes Haltech universal loom and fuse box, Haltech Wideband and CAN hub, And Haltech IQ3 Dash, also includes Zeitronix sensors for oil pressure, oil temp and intake temp - $3600 firm. Attain Solid Shifter - $150 Enkei RPF1 wheels in silver, 18x9.5 +15 and 18x10.5 +15, 215/40 and 235/40 Achilles ATR Tyres, Minor rashing on one of the 9.5 - $1200 Nismo Tower Bar w/master cyl. brace - $200 JDI Knuckles KTS Tie rod Ends Ikeya Formula Tie rods Knuckles are modded stock ones, all other parts are brand new in boxes - $600 the lot Parts are located in Modbury SA, happy to ship @ buyers expense, and arrange shipping for wheels and engine package through toll Via work. Ive put up pics of the motor/turbo kit/wheels/ecu etc, ill take some more pics over the next day or so and put them if, and am happy to take pics of anything specific if someone wants them. Just the car is stored elsewhere and the parts are in my storage container atm. PM or call Ben 0439 888 043

Im using a kinugawa line kit for my GReddy TD06 kit, (the kit didn't come with lines) and I haven't had any issues with it so far. Kit is around $100 for all 3, Earls do a RB25 kit (all 3 lines) and its around $245. Pirtek can knock up a line for you as well, drop in with the existing hardline and they'll make you a new one to suit.

what turbo?

Id leave the rears, just change the fronts to a 8kg or a 9kg. I have cusco 10kg/8kg in my car, and was happy with it on the street. HSD springs/otomoto here in australia, or RHD japan/Greenline/Perfect run etc for Jap springs. There are plenty of places to buy them, but that'll give you somewhere to start.

I had an ATS Carbon single in my 33, (new) and had the same issues as described as the OP. Was better when warmed up, but pulled it out after less than 6 month and it was pretty well shot. Put in a Nismo GMAX twin plate and never looked back. I guess the carbon clutches have their place, but in a street car it isn't.

yeah cool, you're in good hands.