R31 drift pig

they're gonna look badass.

They would be my old wheels. Enkei RPF1 with Achilles ATR's, 9.5 +15 215/40 and 10.5 +15 235/40?

I run Project Mu HC+ pads, and am very happy with them. Previously used ferrodo pads with good results. Heard good things about Intima and remsa pads too. Theres a heap of info on the topics here, this one came up in the search. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169972-brake-pads-users-ratings-guide/page-1?hl=+brake%20+pads

To the OP, It'll just need a good roll/flare in the back, 235/40, 245/40 or a 245/35 tyre, it'll fit fine. Yours will sit 5mm further in, which is equal to pulling 1 degree of camber out. 1 degree negative = 5mm top of wheel in. If you get a bit aggressive with the roller, you could pump enough to fit a 265/35 if you wanted to, which was my plan, but was easier to fit over fenders. Hope that helps.

Couple... Thanks for the kind words. Was a bit rough then, and now no longer has that wheel combo on it, now has GTR +35mm rears, and 18x10/18x12 Work VSKF's, more low, and fresh paint.

Seriously. We get it. A lot of you guys don't like fitment/hellaflush/whatever you want to call it. Fine. No worries. Doesn't mean you have to bag on EVERY f**king person that asks a question related to it. Kinda tired of reading it to be honest. I may not like everything you do to you cars, but I won't talk shit about you or your car for doing so. To the OP, I ran 18x10.5 +15 on my 33, quite low, some camber and a rolled/flared guard. Used a 235/40 rear tyre too. Had room for wider if needed, but not much more.

Ya Know, That's precisely whats been going through my head the last few days. Just a bit hard trying to justify spending the extra money when Im so close to having it finished. But, If the tyres let the car down, I guess ill be even more disappointed. But at the same time, if I was chasing every last 10th, there's a lot of other things Id have changed, or done differently. Like the ride height etc, suspension setup, my brake system etc. Im still weighing it all up, and still have some time before my wheels are finished.

At this stage, I may give them a run and see, I can always decide I need to step up to a better tyre at some point. And thanks, I'm keeping all opinions in mind. I'll go see my tyre guy in the next eek or two and see what's available, pricing etc.

that's pretty helpful actually. Cheers Matt. Ive also been looking at the federal 595RSR, which has a treadwear of 140, Comes in my preferred size for a 10" wheel, which is 225/40, and a lot of EVO guys seem to rate them over in the US, and some have said they prefer them over the AD08R's. And the pricing is cheap for what they supposedly are. 225/40 was $175 each and 265/35's are $195. Ive only used the SS595's, and they were pretty good for a street tyre. The AD05's and R888's (Which i assume are around the same pricing) and starting to be a bit too much for what I want to spend, but they may be what I need to run in order it get the most out of the 33. It's that balancing act between money VS outcome. And I spose I need to actually decide what I want to do with it haha. Reckon hillclimbs are definitely on the agenda.

I saw that, I reckon those tyres in 265/35's will be a fair bit more haha. Ive gone right through that thread and I'm still a bit unsure. Ill sit down with my tyre guy and see what he thinks as well.

Thanks matt, Im hoping the finished product will come together well. Minor update, the F+R Windows went back in this arvo, was going to buy Polycarbonate windows, but id rather spend $1500 on tyres than windows that save me 10kg. Which brings me to my next update, wheels are apart, lips have been ordered, now the wait for them to be made and sent, and the wheels to be reassembled, Im told it should be around 4 weeks. Only a couple of things to do and once the wheels arrive, it can go off for wiring and tuning. Ive been through the motorsport tyre thread, but am still undecided which tyres I'll actually use. Thinking about giving the achilles 123's a go, but not sure how good they'll be, and whether i should step up to something a bit better. Maybe R888's, or Falken RT615k's or something...Dunno. Ill look at that closer to my wheels being finished.

So, After debating the last couple of weeks about wheels, I ended up buying a set today. Bought a set of Work VSKF's, in the crap sizes of 18x8.5 +38 and 18x9.5 +39 haha. They're getting full refurb, and being widened with new lips/barrels out to 18x10 -5 and 18 x 12 +20. Am I happy? Bet your ass I am haha. Now these are weak as f**k, add 5 inch lips and it's a whole new ball game. Getting centres painted same colour as body. Was going to do black lip and battleship grey centres, but thought it might look a little too over the top, so Ill just go with black/Polished lip.

Shaun @ Boostworx fabbed the dash for me while they were building the cage. Just seemed easier and neater than cutting the factory one up, as i had nothing factory going back in anyways. Haven't driven with he GKTech mirrors yet, mine seem exceptionally stiff though? Dunno. Was spewing cause a week after I bought them and put them on, a legit set of gandors came up for sale 15 minutes away from me.

Hi matt, Very familiar with your car too! I started going to shaun just after he opened BW, remember your car was always on the hoist closest to the door? I was driving RX7's back then haha.\ Mine's fair rough compared to yours, but i didn't build it to be too pretty, Ill probably fix some of the average bodywork after it's finished and blow another coat of paint over it. It should be back @ BW in the next couple of months, once the body wiring is finished, Shaun's sticking in the cams for me and wiring in and tuning the Haltech for me. Cheers for the kind words, keeps me plugging away.

Thanks for the kind words... was actually your car that gave me the idea for the interior colour. Mines a machinery grey paint, super hard wearing, doesn't mark etc. The fuel system is one thing about this car I'm not very happy with, surge tank arrangements in 33's are always ugly, and mines no exception> I am a bit OCD about it though haha.. surge is currently on the passenger side, tried to put it where the battery used to be (Battery is now on the passenger floor, with fire suppression system) but I couldn't get nutserts to fit through that panel. The hoses now run up across the old battery tray, and down into the factory hardline, up to the front, into an aeroflow fuel rail. Im still in two minds about removing the current system, cutting out the floor, and putting a cell, but trying not to spend money i don't have to, Id like to drive it at some point. Aeromotive do a nice cell with an inbuilt swirl pot and 1000hp or 1500hp fuel pump, but at nearly $1500, I'm a bit hesitant to spend the money; Although I know Im limited to how much further I can go with one 044, so anything more than this will require more money spent regardless. Im pretty keen to see what the 20g'll do, mine's a SL2 model, so will go a bit higher. I previously made 270w's on 98, with a shitty exhaust and blocked cat, the car my kit came off off made 300 on 98, so with decent sized cams like i have, E85, and a decent tune, reckon ill see 330-340 fairly easy. At the end of the day though, it's only a number. Car was actually pretty quick with 270kw's, just had no grip haha. Full boost is around 3400-3500RPM, and previous limiter was 7200rpm, new limiter will be 8000 rpm, so gives a pretty sizeable power band to play with. And the gearbox/diff ratios etc all seem pretty nice to work with, its a lot of fun to drive around malalla. Just need to keep working and finish off all the little tedious bits and pieces, so when wiring etc. begins, it's fairly straight forward. And with my 1st child arriving in 10 weeks, I've got a lot of work to do before then haha.

So, little update.... Interior is all painted etc, bar the doors, all suspension arms are now in and everything is buttoned up, fuel system is finished, glass is going back in next week, just need to do a few other small odds and ends like mount the haltech etc, and its ready to go for body wiring, then cams in/haltech wire in and tuning. Reckon this thing'll go ok with 350kw's.... And I sold my Enkei's to a mate for his BA XR8 ute, so now Im on the hunt for wheels. It's currently perched on jack stands and it makes me sad haha. May be rota 18x10/18x12's, May bring a set or 17x10/18x12 SSR SP1's out of japan, may get a set of 188.5/18x9.5 VS-KF's widened to 10/12, haven't quite decided yet. Depends how much i want to spend and what tyres I run etc... ill sort something in the next couple of weeks.

Follow the lubricating advice here... it's spot on.

Same Here. Using A GKTech one with a gismo GMAX Twin plate. No issues.

Problems with motul oil was almost instant in my R33, Which is why I thought there may have been an existing issue with the lifters, but then was told about the exact same issue with other 25's. Couldn't tell you how long I had the motul in there with the lifters.... but it wasn't long. New lifters in, and full flush and oil change, including oil cooler etc. Never had another issue. Tuner didn't elaborate on the other 33's at his shop it'd happened too, just it was why he doesn't stock or use motul any longer.

A popped cooler pipe it won't drive at all.... Sounds like it's still running and driving, just nothing from the turbo? Is it a stock turbo? What boost?

Take the arms into somewhere like CBC/Consolidated bearing company. They'll be able to source replacement bearings. You'll just have to get them swapped over. Alternatively, QA1 and McGill motorsports sell compete spherical bearing rod ends as replacements. Just get the right thread and bearing type.

HR31 did. But yes, no australia delivered R31 cam factory equipped with a turbo engine.

Bullshit. Plazmaman piping is the answer. Ben is 137% right. Leave the turbo low mounted, keep factory plenum, use money for better ecu/tuning/fuel pump/injectors. Factory low mount turbo also means dump pipes etc are all off the shelf, also saving time and money.

I just had a look at mine, Im using the same manifold etc you are, with a TD06. My dump pipe has neither bracing NOR a flex joint. Manifold is not braced to block either. Manifold does however have small braces to prevent cracking etc This exact turbo kit has been on my car for 2+ years, and has been on 2 cars previous to mine (R32 GTR and Driftsquid's S13 with RB25) plus whatever else before it. And before someone points it out, manifold flange was modded with 2 extra sets of holes, so fits RB25 and RB26. Not one single issue whatsoever. No broken studs, no issues with dump pipe etc, I do however use new rubber exhaust hangers, and put new studs and gaskets in when turbo kit went on, but thats it.

I have a genuine GReddy TD06 20G, albeit the L2, and Mine also Dies off up top like yours does. Mine dies off even harder. We think it was due to having a f**ked cat. Now had 3" straight pipe exhaust. Does show the Kando's perform similar though. My Results were very similar... 270kw, 430nm, on 98 fuel, with stock plenum, GReddy manifold. same boost.. Would have been almost identical on e85. 3 Now have 264 cams, E85, new ecu and other stuff going in. Well done. Be good to see the outcome with more boost. It'll Be a blast to drive as it is.