W0rp3D

just noticed that when you click on some ones name they have a reputation section, the only reason i know this is because i noticed mine is at -1, just wondering if there is any way to find out who is leaving this and/or why?

Holdens are much the same of that era, most VL and R31 ppl dont bother trying to chase an lsd because the power of the turbo will kill it any way, my mates had a mini spool (locked) diff, was easy to drive in wet and dry and mega predictable when having some fun.

If i was you i would try to keep it auto, a friend had a 5 speed turbo 31 and he changed to an auto with a hi stall and the thing was awesome, there not the best handling things till you start putting S13 struts and brakes on em so you would be better of with the auto for straight line speed and a small amount of twisty action.

Manual is much stronger till you spend a few Grand on the auto, would definately be stronger than a 31 auto tho

4.11 will get you better take off and higher cruising rpm's, 3.7 will give you better top speed and lower cruising rpm's

And before those drop down box's came along i was happy to have the ad's there but they have pissed me off so many times that i have to get rid of em, even just being able to block the drop down action i would be happy with but since they dont even have a close option i cant see that happening any time soon.

But the question is do the ad suppliers know who/any of us are using the ad blocker, i dont think i have ever clicked on an ad because there is nothing there that interests me, sau traders how ever is a different story, have purchased many things off them.

Im assuming its an auto diff?

How much for the coil pack loom?

It has dropped, was second last night when I tried it, any good reputation they had before this had disappeared, the only people that will buy them now is toss pots who should be driving a daihatsu Mira.

International

Have a search through the for sale section, there was an r33 auto in there with shift kit for $200 i think, they were also selling a higher stall converter seperate from memory, should be exactly what you need.

That's a nice improvement, 100rwkw and 250nm, more than double the original figures.

If they are $55 for both as the add reads then yeah both of em.

give me a price for the initial d wallet and watch and decats posted to 3200.

From my research you just use the hose's as they are on either set of covers, two problems you will have, if you use the standard cross over rb25 manifold the drivers side cover will hit the throttle body and the front cover (which is essential to get the smooth look of the 26 covers) will not fit over the cas, you will either have to enlarge the hump in some way or cut a hole for the cas to come through.

It should be but some OEM stuff is changed slightly, found a pic and they look the same just wondering if there is a slight difference which means that not interchangeable.

Cant find any thing when searching, just wondering if an internally gated 3540 exhaust housing dump gasket is the same as an xr6 turbo, will need one early next week and thats the only place i can think that would stock them.

Just got it, works great, nomore drop downs.

Most ppl for some stupid reason think that the S2 front is better than the S1, If you want to get rid of the S1 bumper and its a Mspec you should not have a problem.

These are the ones to go for, i have had the epsom ej1 and found it to be very lacking, espensive and hard to find, the hks ones seem to be a lot better and a lot easier to get a hold of and both have an rca out to plug into any screen, they would also have some sort of customer support, from my research the ej1 was never sold retail, it only came out in certain models as an oem product which means getting any sort of support is impossible.

In the process of changing turbo's and as i took this line of it broke since it was so old an brittel, however i was surprised to notice that there was a reducer in there which reduced the hose to about 3 or 4mm, is this normal, i deliberately got a 2 in 1 out catch can to maximise the flow (and neaten things up a little) but now it seems if i use 1 line from the rockers and back to the intake it would triple the flow! So should i use the restrictor with the catch can or maybe just the smaller barbs (was going to replace with bigger ones) to restrict flow back to the intake?

K&N is what you should use.

Some will have op6 stamped on the housing there are others but I don't know what is stamped on there, a basic hypergear high flow is only about $800 I think and I got a quoted about $400 from hypergear for a basic rebuild.