chiksluvit

it shouldn't either the valving of the konis do not suit the springs or the shocks are worn factory springs don't bottom out the standard shocks, and whiteline springs arent that much lower

well i guess eibach it is for the OP then I've seen Tein Stech springs and they do the same too

nice car mate.. seems like a lot of effort was put into it GL with the sale

the king springs are only progressive to keep the springs captive I had a set of king springs before, with the weight of the car, the progressive section of the spring should close up, like helper springs, therefore the effective rate is still the higher rate

if its coming from the top of the strut its most likely upper control arm, if the bushes are worn it will sometimes cause the upper control arm to rub against the chassis and hence the noise- rubber bushes don't get noisy then again chances are your 10 year old shocks are probably shot, so might be worth looking at upgrading the suspension while you're at it i replaced mine with urethane ones, only Superpro makes them, they were noisy for a good couple of monthes and the noise just left afterwards

had exactly the same issue, upper control arm bushes were shot

Its Heasman, they're awesome This has a lot to do with alignment, lowering your car will put alignment out of spec, (more -ve camber, excessive toe in) get an alignment done and go from there if you want to change the position of your lower control arm to correct roll centre, you can do this with adjustable urethane bushes, but you can only raise it so much you're still better off raising the car to the right ride height for this

might be too much toe in try wheel alignment first, see how much toe in at the rear the car has doubt it's the HICAS rack, though still possible, but get rid of HICAS anyway

another vote for Toshi here top bloke, he's one man show, user name's Toshi on the forum

sold

Sold!

Got a set of lowered King Springs for sale from an R33 gtst the part number for the front springs is KDFL-101 and the rears are KDRL-61SP, will also fit R34 GT/GTT works great with Bilsteins, leaves about 1 finger clearance between front wheel and guard, roughly about 340mm centre of wheel to guard, this will vary a bit from car to car though- attached picture shows the ride height when it was on the car Located in North Sydney, pick up preferred but can post at buyer's expense. PM me if interested, looking for $150, no low ballers please.

rear bar sold

this is what it says "time to change engine oil you can change the setting by pressing the information switch, and select maintenance information category"

old thread revival but as i was going through some stuff i've saved over time i found the specs of this.. its basically a 400R bottom end with rb25 head, so 2.8L, 300hp its a kanagawa nissan dealer exclusive limited model and yeh it uses same turbo as the standard rb25det

had the creaks and it was my upper control arm bushes too, fixed it recently by changing it to super pro bushes, but it developed a bit of squeak in only a few weeks time despite the fact that i've greased them properly. checked it and found that it was due to the bush rubbing against the chassis when it rotates. can't do anything about this one oh well, at least this noise is quieter and doesnt happen as frequent, pretty much only when i drive out of the driveway

underbody brace wise the only one i know of is the one that braces between the caster rod brackets difference.. yes very little and not as much as a strut brace i remember reading the r34 website on the old nissan japan site, it has a reinforced C pillar, they also mentioned that the r34 GTT chassis brace design was based on the R33 GTR, and R34 GTR is stiffer again its true that R34 GTT and S15 do feel stiffer than R33, especially on driveways again R33 is so big inside so naturally it won't be as stiff as an R34 S15 and R34 GTR have all sorts of funny braces from factory like the spare wheel well brace, transmission tunnel brace and rear subframe brace, sometimes it really makes you wonder if they really do anything never really checked out the GTT so i dont know what braces they've got

guess i was pretty lucky to fix the issue with just the gearbox mount... good luck with it and let us know what the outcome is

then rotating drive shaft have you had a clutch change? if you did, did this noise only occur after the clutch change? if not then i'm out of ideas.. anyone else?

actually http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/351451-what-tailshaft-are-you-running/ seems like it can be replaced, and that keeping the 2 piece is the way to go just check your transmission mount first before you investigate this further

i'd try the gearbox mount first, this sounded like the exact same problem i had when my gb mount was worn not sure about one piece shafts, as i've never used/ installed one before, so i can't really say anything based on personal experience. one piece shafts are harder to install but it lacks the centre bearing so one less thing to fail, and transmits power more directly in theory. there might be other downsides but i'm not sure, since i've never looked into this, maybe someone else can shed some light unique has a few web addresses, one is www.nismo.com.au

you can get nismo transmission mount, stiffer yet not as harsh as polyurethane, plenty of places have them, justjap or even ebay.. a cheap/free way of doing this is to reuse the original transmission mount by squeezing oversized rubber hoses into the gap and cable tie it in, i've tried this on a couple of cars and it worked great, if you still have the standard transmission mount it would've been pretty worn by now, so even if this wasn't the cause of problem it will become a problem sooner or later rotating the driveshaft is just like what you've said, unbolt at the diff end and rotate it from there, there are 4 bolts, but make sure you mark it before you do anything in case that isn't the problem if none of above fixes the problem, then its a worn centre bearing of the shaft which i dont think is serviceable.. means new driveshaft- unique autosports sell a one piece item which is reasonably priced

The worn gb mount was a worn standard mount sitting right below the gearbox, there's only one Changed to polyurethane and worked fine. New car now has an ok standard mount so never bothered to reuse the polyurethane mount Drive shaft wise if it wasn't marked on disassembly, you'll just have to rotate it and drive around, if not fixed then come back and rotate it again to match the next hole

happened to me a couple of times, first time was sagged gearbox mount, changed the mount and it was fixed second time wasn't that bad, it was due to the mechanic not alligning the drive shaft on the rear diff correctly when he reinstalled it after changing clutch. the shaft is balanced with the diff so it has to go back in the same way as it came out while most people would say that drive shaft issue should only be speed dependent, i can confirm that the rattle was rev/load dependent, not speed

Bump! And no low ball offers please