the big JC

can you get mini spools for the stock MR30 diffs and on another note do you need a different drive shaft to run a r200 longnose in an MR

im supprised no one has said anything about the R200's yet from what i know they are a very good and tuf diff

firstly the R30 doors are pin type hinges so as long as you haven't removed the hinges from the body then the doors will go on fine (do not attemt to put it on your self it is possible but you ar just as likely to put a nice dent or scratch in your car or your nice new door) get some one to hold the opposit end of the door to the hinge you hold the hinge end and guide it in to the hinge on the chassie get the other person to tilt the door up or down to line the holes up and you bash the pins in if the door dosen't latch properly you might just have to adjust the striker plate abit (the u shaped thing on the pillar that the door latches to) im a pannel beater so that info is corect

it's dose sound abit like a blown head gasket so to test that is really simple all you need to do is pull all the spark plugs out and try to start the car if the head gasket is gone you will get a jet of coolant shoot out of the plug holes. let me know what happens

(the big JC) YEAR: 1984 MODEL: MR30 TI BODY TYPE: Sedan ENGINE TYPE: N/A L24E COLOUR: Silver

R30 tail lights these are the DR30 ones these are the MR30 TI ones and these are the HR30 ones

got my self a set yesterday for free with absolutely nothing wrong with them

id say your gonna Need a RB20 Manual ecu id almost put money on it

as the title says im trying to put a oil cooler into my L24E MR30 so i obviasly need a adapter plate so where do i get one?

when i recently found out that i could get insurance i started geting ready to do it again but then i brought a datsun 1200 so most of my money goes into that at the moment and on top of that i just blew up my motocross racing bike the other weekend so thats a mess and is gonna be a bitch to fix im also re-building my little bros Honda Z50 so ive got alot on at the moment so i was planing on just starting colecting parts and then maybe by a piece of shit R30 to try it all on incase something goes wrong cos i can't afford to go with out my car but im 100% serious about it i had all the money organised but then my insurace told me they wouldn't insure me and that no one else would so i had to scrap it. So i have to use the P90 head or can i keep the stock one cos i can't have my car off the road for too long and it would be alot of stuffing around id have to get all the valves re seated and get the head faced and shit im realy looking for a fairly basic setup that can run decent boost safely prob nothing over 10psi i rather just get started off with a basic setup and then get a head and pistons and stuff to start making some serious power later down the track. What stuff do you have and what do you want for it so i can keep it in mind when ive got some spare cash any thing i can get off you would be a big help all the stuff i need is pretty scaerse around here when i was chasing all the stuff last time i found a guy that had everything i needed but he was in NZ. also do you have that fuel gauge for me Cheers josh

yea i know ive already found out heaps from him

I know its not going to be easy but i like a chalenge and the fact that there are only a handfull of people who have done it makes it more attractive ive always wanted my car to stand out from the crowd so if its doable then i will do it (one day)

so you recon that it could handle higher than 4psi boost it would just be difficult to get the air fuel mix right could a jay car digital fuel controller help to get it right

im trying to work out how i could lower the compression in my L24E to make it more suitable for a turbo so what i want to know is if anyone knows if there are decompression plates advalible for the L24 and where to get them or would it work if i used 2 head gaskets if im going to do the turbo conversion i want to be able to run a decent amout of boost safely and i was told by a mate thats in the engine re-con buisness that i wouldn't be able to run any more than about 4psi boost but some one on here told me up to 15psi so i think the best option will be to lower the compression and run a intercooler to help prevent (KABOOM!!!) lol the reason the L24ET project is back on is because ive recently found someone who will insure me but i still wont be starting it for about 12 months as i have to finish my 1200 project first

If anyone has a set of new or used extractors to suit the L series motors that they want to sell then let me know Cheers josh

don't supose you got any extractors

The R30's are independent rear end stock. If you want a good rally setup go a L28 and just mod it

it says orange lol

how hard are the digital fuel controllers to tune and what benifets would come from using one on a N/A car

yes please

so what do they do can the increase performance and where do you get them

im pritty sure ive read somwhere that the bosch replacement injectors for the R31's are compatable with the L24E go to www.injectorsonline.com the have some nuts prices they have bosch N/A RB30 ones that flow 15% more than stock for $80 each and VL turbo ones for $80 each. If im wrong about the VL injectors working then your bound to find the right ones on injectors online don't go genuine unless you really have to cos they will take your arms and your legs lol GD luck

So all the manual L26 260Z are supposed to have nismo works cams, it would be cheaper if i could get one of them but the only problem is it probably wouldn't be the grind i want the crow cam ive picked out is a high tourque cam that works between 2000rpm & 5800rpm. what sort of power increase do you think you would get from using one of those nismo or L28ET cams, crow recon about 10hp from there cam. ******* CROW CAMS SELECT PROGRAM ******* 16 COLBERT RD CAMPBELLFIELD 3061 phone (03) 9357 0469 fax (03) 9357 0001 MODEL TYPE |-------------------------[CROW COMPUTER CARD]-------------------------| | PART NUMBER 58643ohc Date 4-MAY-01 | | Cam type: Asysmetrical profile Read in Head | |----------------------------------------------------------------------| | Advance Ground on Cam: 1 Lobe separation: 108 | | .075 VALVE TIMING ( Measured at the valve with no lash ) | | Inlet opens: 0 BTDC Closes: 34 ABDC .075 Duration: 214 | | Exhaust Opens: 37 BBDC Closes: -1 ATDC .075 Duration: 216 | | ADVERTISED VALVE TIMING | | Inlet opens: 41 BTDC Closes: 75 ABDC ADV Duration: 295 | | Exhaust Opens: 78 BBDC Closes: 40 ATDC ADV Duration: 298 | | Inlet lobe lift at TDC on the over lap:.075 | |----------------------------------------------------------------------| | Valve lift Inlet: .4850 Inlet Rocker Ratio: 1.00 | | Valve lift Exhaust: .4950 Exhaust Rocker Ratio: 1.00 | | Valve Lash Inlet:.008 Valve Lash Exhaust: .010 | |----------------------------------------------------------------------| | RECOMENDED VALVE TRAIN COMPONENTS Kit Number: | | Valve Springs: Spring height: Collets: | | Retainers: Pushrod: Lifters: | | H/D Timing Set:

Ive decided to go with a Crow cam because they make one that will suit my requirements so i just need to know if a MSD 6A unit will fit to my L24E Skyline

thanks