Col-GTSX

QUOTE: gtrken if you are using the original RB20 box then it's life span will be in minutes once you crank up the boost. My mates R32 GTS-T runs an RB20 stroked out to 2.2 litres and runs close to 300rwkw with a fair amount of mods.... He is still running the standard R32 GTS-T Gearbox with some specail clutch stuff going on.. Plus my car runs a standard R32 box behind a 200+ rwkw car.... Ohhhhh and there is a LJ Tonana that gets around here with an RB20det motor and standard R32 box and its modded to the hill.....(guess 350+ rwkw) The roll cage and fatts on the back are a dead give away.... (Note: the torana in question is not a legally registered car therefore no more detail will be given here)

I look at it this way... My next door neighbour had a dog... pretty cute little fury thing... I like my staffy better but anyway. Its a $800 dog... OK it ran out onto the road and had to have $2300 worth of vet bills to fix him up. About 1 month later he got an infection and they spent over $2000 in the next couple of weeks keeping him alive. About 1 year later i moved in next door and they were telling me this story. Later that same night there was a skid out the front and a yelp and thats the end of that story... $5000 dog to me = $1,000,000 car

$51

Oh sorry... what rb20 is it for... 1. RED TOP 2. SILVER TOP ???????????????????????????????????????????????????

Got a phone number i can call.... Ill give ya $50 and will pick up today... or tommorrow... when eva u r free

This seems impossible... Eveyone says their an old motor and they dont stock them anymore.... The guy at all jap said i dont have any RB20's in at the moment mean while there were two motors in sight from the front counter....??? All State Auto Spares are trying to find me one but have no price or aviablity as yet... Any one got an idea???

Ummm... I hear ya... Engine swap with silver top $3100 R33 Turbo (rebuilt) $1120 Manual Trans $2400 Custom Alloy Radiator $700 Thermo fan ans bits to run $350 Exhaust $1300 Brass Button Clutch and 3200lbs preasue plate (used 180sx bits to lighten) $800 Apexi Turbo Timer $250 Alarm system (not telling what type) $700 Z32 AFM (including re-chip and tune) $850 Tyres $1200 (two sets of cheapies) TOTAL $12770 On a car i bought for 10g's and the list goes on......

OK i have found the price of a Brand New AVC-R using the one of the sponcers web sites and its only $646.15 AUD plus shipping of about $40... Pretty cheap really.... Anyone got any thoughts of were i might buy a new one in Australia tho.... Im not sure if i can wait a few weeks for it to come from Japan...? Or can someone suggest a better or similar product and give a price and location of where i may get one... And why you would choose this over say the AVC-R???

OK, correct me if im wrong but this is my understanding for the huge price difference inbetween these two products.... The Turbo smart product is basiclly a bleed valve (or two in the dual product) which bleeds air from the moment 1psi is reached alot like a normal bleed valve. Making the car reach its pre set bleed value. Not the fastest way to reach the boost value required... AVC-R on the other hand is all electronic and has an electronic bleed valve which wont bleed any air until the boost value is achieved therefore because no air is bleeding during build up to set value the boost will come on faster.... For example, if 10psi is set then the car will boost to 9 or 10psi with no bleed and then the electronic valve will kick in the hold that value. Also will stop any boost spikeing.... Yeah If this is correct then i will buy the AVC-R... The other advandage is that the boost value can be set in cabin which is an odvious advantage and theres no stuffing around with setting the bleed. (ie. pull over and turn the dail a little until the boost is achieved) Im pretty sure this is the way they work. But i also under stand that their are many other types like a G-Reddy E-Boost product and of course there are many others. Can you state which youe think is the better product and price and why??? Thanks

OK... problem gone for like over a week now... Then as im starting to be a little happy about it... this arvo it did it again. Revs up and down... get out of the car, unpluged the AAC valve and the car returns to normal... However with this unplugged it has a tendancey to stall un-expectlly... So i got to cross a major road in Brisbane to limp it home and what happens.... Yep you guessed it... Then to make things even worse. The Police were sitting waiting for me to push it out of the way only to give me a hard time.... It took them 20 minutes of checking the car inside out to find that its perfectlly legal.... However they didnt look at the rego sticker which had expired over a month ago.... Because the car has been off the road for a while i forgot all about it... Anyways they were pretty nice in the end... I guess they deal with some pretty nasty people everyday. But still thats 20 minutes of my life ill never get back. Back to the story... Saving at the moment for a full and i mean 3 day type full service and tune... New AAC valve should be here in a few weeks from Japan ($300) then tune and all should be good.... In the mean time ill just drive it a little to keep the juices flowing

Easier way... do as i did many years ago with my first skyline and just take the vac hose off the wastegate all together.... The car was reaching 30psi + (dont rlly know cause the auto meter gadge would only go to 30psi... But hey the engine ping'ed like a treat before i put a piston through the block... LOL (We are all young and dum sometimes....) I was only trying to get my last couple of buck worth of value of od the rear tyres before replacing them.... Come on guys you know what im talking about.... Note: I have had the set thats on my current skyline for over 2 years now.... See i learnt my lesson..

My issue sound very similar to this one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...4564#post814564 abve i talked about the timing changing all of the place and this can cause it.... Well in the post above another guy has measured the timing when the fault occurs with his motor and its all over the place.... Only 3 things control the timing... 1> CAS 2> ECU 3> AAC (in directlly thro ECU) Ummmmmm ideas.... Anyone got a spare CAS for a silver top i can borrow for a week????

Sound very similar to my problem... check this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=36874 I posted a few weeks ago and have had no luck with finding the problem... but i have reduced the freq of the occurance.... I had a feeling it was the CAS as they get F#@king hot as when up to operating temp... Like its the seconds hottest piece of metal in the engine bay (other than the exhaust of course) Im sure when it gets too hot the signal breaks down... VL & R31's (Rb30) motor contantlly had CAS problems (i used to be an auto-elec) but they ran a very different system, and the plates were replaceable... I dont want to just go and buy a CAS to see if im right or not.... So maby you can and then tell me if it works... LOL Read this post maby it will help anyways...

Yes.... the cold start item will play up when the engine has passed about 150k's but has no real direct affect with the operation.... cant stall the car just makes it a bit jerky on the pedal when cold... but this cant be helped anyway... The AAC valve is certainlly the cause.... I am replacing it next week with a gen part.... but ill do the collant temp sensor as well as this after noon i droped the endless chain on it and broke the %$#ing thing....

It was proven many years ago that optimax was only good for 2 weeks... Before its oct whould drop down to around the 94-93 mark... Making it about the same as regular.... It would be impossible to get pure fresh optimax.... Unless you work for shell and are getting it straight from the 500million litre tanks.......

Just a quicky has anyone got a copy of all the pin outs on the R32 (manual) ECU, I have had a small problem (thieves) cut half the wiring under the dash (some time ago i will add, getting a stereo, morons it was the original unit that would not play cd's, it would chew tapes & the radio didnt go high enough to reach any good stations... wankers)and one of them was the bloody tacho.... I have located one end but not the other.... Hopefully someone has the full diagram (in english please) Thanks

Why change the r32 5 speed.... Its a strong box.....????

Im assuming you dont have instructions!!!! You will have to post the model no so someone else who has the exact same model can scan it and send them too you, cause different wire colours mean nothing, on different brands and models... Also if you have one with no instructions i hope you bought it from a very reliable source??? Cause theift is a supply & demand industry... or sorry to be hard there dude I just hate theives anyway, I had one of these and returned it because the HKS ones dont like alarm systems that disable fuel pumps and so on... Mate if you have the reciept still return it for an APEXI pen type TT. Much more user friendlly and like alarms systems.... NOTE: You can make the HKS unit work with alarms, but its more wiring than im gonna even try to explain... (I used to be an auto-elec)

OK... I found one of the problems.... The serging of idle is being caused by the ACC Valve. Located at the rear of the plenium chamber. However all said and done... try and find one... I have disconnected it completelly and the car is not serging... However the stalling is still happening. I thought it may be the fuel pump so i have re-wired the fuel pump to be on high presure all the time. I alos have a fuel pressure reg with a gauge so i can see the preasure is not dropping when this happens. As mentioned earlier in the piece i replace the 02 sensor. Today i did some spark plugs. Now the Acc valve seems to be a solinoid... It is a closed circuit and when voltage is applied there is not movement in the valve... My question is how does it work and whats its purpose exactlly??? The operation of the valve is funny, you can push the tip in about 10mm and it will spring back, this corosponds with another tip on the plenium... It does not send signal as i said before its closed circuit... So im assuming its a soliniod... but it does not puch out so im beet... Any ideas... Also im pretty sure the stalling and carrying on is cause by a faulty sensor of some sort. Also about the colant temp sensor, if you disconnect this sensor the car should return to a high idle, this is caused by the computer going into limp mode. Has nothing to do with wether its faulty or not.... I have replaced 2 before with no changes (this info is from the guys who replaced it)... On the bright side the colent temp sensor on the rb20 is the same as a nissan Maxima so the cost of getting one new is only $50 from Nissan... Anyway guys, i think its time to through the whole thing.... I have spend over 15g's on this car and still its one prob after another...

Buy a non turbo motor and put that in.... No solution here sorry... Just thought it was funny... Damn ive gotta stop drinking

Im playing with it tommorrow.... so ill post after some play time

we may have a solution.... check this Note: Im Be-atch (talking about the AAC) Be-atch (NOW CABLE POWERED) says: .... i was ****in with it the other day and couldnt be ****ed playing with it Be-atch (NOW CABLE POWERED) says: god damn it... i knew i should have played with it Nismo_Freak says: pull the plug ... see if it solves your problem Be-atch (NOW CABLE POWERED) says: but what control does it have Nismo_Freak says: it can raise your idle alot Nismo_Freak says: and cause you to go lean ... causing det ... causing bucking Nismo_Freak says: when your driving Be-atch (NOW CABLE POWERED) says: but csan it make the care hunt and carry on.... like boost cut in and out really fast Be-atch (NOW CABLE POWERED) says: arhhhhh Nismo_Freak says: yep Be-atch (NOW CABLE POWERED) says: thats it Nismo_Freak says: if it's leaking enough Be-atch (NOW CABLE POWERED) says: lean = det = knock sen = shut down Nismo_Freak says: yup Nismo_Freak says: timing retard down to 10 degs. for about 15 seconds

have cleaned all inside out and have had no luck have checked all vac lines.... Gonna have to try AFM i guess... Gonna be an expensive excercise... Its hurt buying another one cause i have 3 to suit a red top rb20... Including a BRAND NEW Nismo item cost $800

bump* problem still here someone must have had this before?

I was sold the wrong part... long story anyway refund is out of the question even tho im entitled to it.... Its too much trouble to go thro... Bought yesterday $135 Long story short Sell $75 FIRM U pay postage Comes with 3months warranty PH: 0433 123 024