Col-GTSX

I was sold the incorrect part and refund was not given.... Long story just wont go back there.... So angry. Anyway comes with 3 months warranty Sell $75 U pay postage

yeah as long as there not like my old motor... 160,160,160,160,150,75 ...... LOL The rattle of the piston sideways in the block was a dead give away tho.... LOL

Ok, I have replaced the TPS No go I have run a diag and got a code 55 = all good I cleaned the AFM and the car ran allright.... Im just gonna save up a bit and get a whole service and tune... I have been told the TB warmer is a bad design flaw however cant interfear like this so im gonna rule that one out. I am out of ideas, just gonna replace the spark plugs and clean everything up again and see what happens. I have also noticed that the AFM on my car has had both grills removed and the auto elec said that some think it gives them an extra kw or 2 but is generally a bad practice. So after cleaning the element very very carefully it ran better, but in 2 days it started stuffing up again. Any one else got an idea???

Join the club buddy... I have spent over 25g's on mine in the 3 years i have owned it and i get more looks than all my other car put together.... Just get used to being ask how u made it into a 2 door skyline.... LOL

99% sure of no leaks as if there was then it would do it all the time

I bought a Apexi Turbo timer for odvious reasons and this also has a live A/F read out and i use this all the time..... I shows how badlly tuned my car is at the moment... LOL

IM BACK....... OK Model and Parts involved: Rb20det silver top engine Problem: This problem is on off. It could go for days with out happening and then 20 times the next week. The rev's seem to be hunting. I will sit at the lights and the rev's will go inbetween 500rpm and 2000rpm. I have replaced the TPS & AFM as i thought these as being posible issues. Rather than going ahead and replacing more stuff i thought I'd ask as im sure someone else has had this problem. This hunting problem when you apply the throttle the car will stall as tho the boost cut has come in. This can also occur during driving rough or smooth or in between gear this fault will kill the motor and the only thing keeping it going is the momentum the car has built up already. If you press the clutch in the car will either hunt like at the lights or stall. Can some one shed some light on the situation. Also im looking for a copy of the error codes for this ECU and a diagram of the pin config of the silver top ECU Thanks

i paid 850 brand new... make me an offer... if it is dismal i will just modify my new ecu to take it... cause its good for about 15kw's Call me with the offer on 0433 123 024

Yeah and you dont get that for 700 bucks thank you.... I have built a new machine and am selling the old one... but yeah ill take 600 now...

... ok for the last time... I dont check this forum.... Phone me on 0433 123 024 No plenium pipe over cam cover 02 sensor is worth more than 10 bucks r31 turbo is not a good choice for an r33.... (thats why i pulled it off and put an r33 one on) please ph me....

Ok, willing to break motor down now... have sold a couple of bits... *Harmonic Balancer and pipes to/from intercooler

ASUS

Great condition comes with charger FIRM $200 (Ill pay postage, if required within Australia) All enquires Ph: 0433 123 024

I have my old PC 4 sale.... It has the following and is a tower only (no monitor) 1200MHz Athlon 256MB Ram Geforce 2 GTS/PRO 32MB Agp graphics card Modem Network card Tower of couse 40gig HDD Sound Blaster Live 5.1 4 x USB ports Comes loaded with dual O/S's Win XP Pro & Win 2000 Pro Price is at $700 Microsoft Keyboard and Optical Mouse (optional) add $50 All enquires call 0433 123 024 NOTE: I dont check these forums often enough anymore as im back on dial up now....

OK. I have ripped out my rb20det from the gtsx and so i have a few bits for sale.... Its a complete motor red top nics comes with turbo, wiring looms, ECU, 6x injectors, Z32 AFM and all the bits required to make it work.... Call me for any other details.... If not sold in a week i will be wreaking and breaking down parts. PH: 0433 123 024 Price whole $1000 Im in Brisbane

If you have clutch problems than get it checked out cause i thought i had clutch problems and it turned out to be a tail shaft being slightlly bent.....

No offence intented just does it sound like its higher.. cause if it is higher and the performance is there id say blocked or more to the point restricted line to the boost gadge....

sorry rims are no good to me now.... sorry again... (no car to put them on)

id say leaky BOV does it sound like its making more than that or is it really only making 4psi... i mean do you know the feeling difference between say 10 and 4psi....

Id go the blitz is what i meant... easy to set up (for a no brainer) not to suggest that you are just no dyno time needed to set correctlly.... Just get a passanger who can control as u drive or get a trusted driver while u set up....

Well the AVCR is well proven But then again all those i know who have the blitz unit are quite happy as well.... One friend gave me his AVCR when he fitted the Blitz unit and said the blitz unit was easier to setup.... But then thats easily stated as i helped him... HAHA

It most likely will be one of the above... Im just making you aware.... I have 150psi on a cold motor cyl 1-5 and then cyl 6 was 50psi....

Most importantlly run a compression test..... If she is a red top like my old motor... Sounds like a dropped ring or blown head gasket.....

Now when i say the engine will be safe i mean ..... If you treat it with respect no like i have done in the past.... Learn from my mistakes. 1. Dont put on big turbos on stock coolers 2. When someting goes wrong with the motor and you are still not sure after 24hours... Then buy a front cut... It will be cheaper trust me... ($800 AFM, $2400 gearbox/clutch, $2600 new motor)

Yeah loads of stuff to do..... I went in the deep end and have personally blown 3 motors... Do it right.... Get the safty stuff first.... 1. Fire ext 2. Fire Blanket 3. Water to put on a fire Just kidding Serious 1. FMIC 2. Exhaust 3. POD 4. Chip Then go stupid..... If you get these bits first then you will be able to do almost anything and still be safe... well i mean the engine will be safe...