Col-GTSX

Will pay $100 for standard ecu (u pay postage to brisbane)

Man that rocks... Need some inof tho. 1. Where do u get fuel 2. Whats the range on the control 3. How long does a tank of fuel last 4. Costs to run??? 5. What do they retail for new 6. Why u selling something that sounds like so much fun (the work nitro makes it sound so sweet)

Hard to say. A car yard would try for 20 im sure.... Private probablly 15.... or so.... It would sell in a few weeks Taking the good bits out is only gonna cost you. To get standard stuff to replace it i mean. Also this extra stuff separates your car from the one little johnny has seen else where and if yours is a similar price then which would you pick??? Id personally give you 14 firm with bout 2-4 months rego

bastards

Mate... I had no blow off valve at all. But i makes a funny noise of chopping air as the compressed air passes back over the impella. This not only puts pressure on the impeller but it makes the noise of a blow off valve anyways. The police were gonna write me a ticket for having a loud blow off valve and when i popped the bonnet and show them there was none. They told me to put a standard one on because they make very little noise. If i didnt then next time they will fine me....

Thats standard temp sensor is there for over heating warning light on dash...

What happens...... is 1. The AAC valve eventually dies due to age/heat whatever it dies 2. a piece of crap will be suck in the spring that operates the AAC valve. If you gonna buy a new Spring or clean it or what ever, you may as well get a new one.

Yep.... i had the same problem took over a grand and 3 months to fix .... Go and buy an AAC valve and body.... Cost me $40.... time taken was less than 5 minutes Problem fixed.... Mate many have had this problem, when i brought it up no one had an idea at all. Well they had ideas but as i fixed them the ideas were running out and so was my pocket money...

??? Spent a few minutes reading all that has been written... I agree with most but have to point out one thing. It was mentions that they found the rb20 lagger when putting on a r33 turbo. Well i found the exact oppisite, when i put mine on and cranked 18psi under controlled conditions (odviouslly the car was capable of 18psi) i had a smile from ear to ear. The injectors worked way too hard tho and needed upgrading and the ecu had a bit of a hard time too. The only mistake i made was getting too ****y and cranking the boost up and up and up to see how high she really goes.... (BOOM). Now i run 4psi... While my new motor is running in. Have done 7000km now so im ready to crank back to a reasonable 12psi or so. Also what sort of motor will you get for 300 bucks.....??? Here a head thats been sitting round for years is worth 300.... A good whole motor is over 1200 bucks

My first FMIC was a 110mm thick unit to make up for lack of height.... It had major heating problems for the radiator.... My temp gadge would always be up around the high area.... New skyline got a 645x350x75 custom made and this worked a charm... Although it covered the entire radiator it was no where near as thick.... Current skyline..... Dont even have FMIC on road.... Have interchangabe piping for dyno.... But it runs too hot as well in summer.... its a 82mm thick.... I wish I wish i didnt kill that fish (had my last one stolen) Point of my story... 3 skylines... 2 the same pretty much, and very different in performance...

Throw away that bleed valve... Their death to a motor and turbo... Mine buggered up at full noise and before i could understand to lift of the gas it had boosted to over 30psi.... BANG BANG BANG.... nah not that bad its slipped a ring.... But it could be a bit leaky and causeing the wastegate to open a little early... Also that standard Cat is a huge problem... Why get the rest of the exhaust done and leave the cat??? You dont need a Z32 AFM to break 200rwkw... lets aim for that first hey.... Chatter in the fuel lines.... Spend a few bucks there... Get a rising rate FPR (Fuel preasure reg) if you have $500 to spare... Go a serge tank (will also help later for those hard launch's) and a Bosch fuel pump (or VL Turbo pump) and the FPR.... Should only be round $500 fitted... Remember to get kw's u need.... 1. AIR 2. FUEL 3. IGNITION if you upgrade one component then the rest need to be equal too....

I under stand what auto barn does... but at least if they send it its their problem... Cost of postage, if it goes missing... blah blah blah... Anyway i get auto barn vouchers from work... I will only take a month to get $1000 so its really free when you think about it.... Thats why i really wanted to buy it from them... Cause it will cost me nothing... Like i get my oil, filters and stuff they every service cause it costs nothing...

Sony once again bought the rights to the new GTA.... So you wont see it on XBOX until Christmas 2005

So you would only use an AVC-R.... Is that what ya saying... I dont mind paying a bit more if i can get it now... ie. Autobarn Virigina said they will do one for $980 neat.... I think ill just buy it from them... In case you have a problem you then have someone to take it back too...

Oh.... Almost forgot... You were talking about tyres... Yep did these research a few months ago... Meet a really smart bloke from CAT racing, works on the V8's anyways. Yes you do need a good suspension setup to obtain good use of tyres. There are a couple of ways to look at it. 1. I have the best suspension setup in the world and use $50 tyres... 2. I have a standard suspension setup and use $500 tyres.... 3. I spent about $1200 on new springs and shocks (in a rep brand, ie I bought TEIN) and i buy good safe road tyres (ie. Bridgestone Donuts) $160 per tyre.... Now i have had all three of these setups over my last couple of skylines (all the same model) so i can tell you my last skyline which had option number 3 was the best handling of them all.... I will also go on to note that alot of people go on about $300 tyres and how good they are. Well i agree, $300 tyres are fantastic, but value for money over a Australian re-searched and made tyre (designed for our rough, course, dry, wet, bumpy roads) is not so great. So i took the advice on board and bought a set and they are now 2 years old and the fronts are now due for replacement. The $320 yoko's i used last time felt a bit better but only lasted 4 months... Hope you under stand..

Choice... very impressive... that power it nothing to laugh at... You have half of the right mods already. Forged pistons check, FMIC check, Exhaust Check & nice turbo. What i dont see as impressive is a wolf3d computer... Sorry but when i worked in auto electronics we used those on Gemini's and Escorts... Older Map sensor driven motors like the 2l twin cam ISUSSO (howeva u spell it) anyways... I believe out of personal experience, your greatest power gain is gonna come through 4 things... (not gonna say which one is best, as all four applied together is the way to go) 1. ECU (suggest Microtech) 2. Cams (suggest JUN or any of the good aftermarket ones, just select carefully on cams as some will provide great top end and some will provide great bottom end. Remember the standard ones are sort of all range. So get loads of advice before sinking into a certain set.) 3. AFM unit (Z32 or larger, standard afm's can only measure a certain amount of flow) 4. Fuel system (back to front, ie. Pump, surge tank, fatter lines, preasure reg, injectors) Never the less these 4 bits (parts & labour) are gonna cost a pretty penny.....

OK guys... the problem is solved.... Yes you heard me i fixed it... Cost $40 Time taken 10 minutes Faulty AAC Valve... Hardest part was trying to find the part.... Only taken 3 weeks, but anyways not the point... Im over the moon now... I can finally get the new FMIC done in the next couple of weeks... Then is the AVC-R... Then ill see you a jamboree... Wanta (im mean gonna) crack mid 12 second pass....

Forget it guys found one on hours later.... Thanks anyway.... Want parts in Brisbane... dont stuff around like i did for three weeks just go to Cresta

Thanks for putting me onto Cresta Jay... Carlo got me one of $40... Works a treat... problem solved.... I was so supprised as to the stock he carries and was very impressed with their shop... I will be going back to them many times more. Will never go to All Jap ever again due to really bad service and prices that are plain rip off's... I will be going there again on Thursday to buy more R32 bits and Im confident on getting the right stuff for the right price... Thnaks agian Jay

ok called and no from RMA

OK the guy from Zoom is pretty sure the VL product is the same... He is gonna have a look into it... As these are only $100 brand new and easy to get within a hour or so from holden. Cresta is gonna have a look around for one. He has a few bits'a motors, will call him back in an hour or so.. Thanks Jay, this is the only 2 company's that have helped me so far the rest just said no straight away and had no ambition of trying to find one..... I mean Wreakers Hotline didnt even want to put out a request... No one will have one they said... Anyways thanks man... Hopefully its good news...

Yep... I thought i just have skyline on the brain when I saw it... But hey, flat skylines still go fast...

Thats right.... You got the info above..... Need one of these soon as possible..... Will buy at resonable price and pick up in Brisbane.... Will pay postage from else where...

Ill give ya $375 firm plus postage..... IF You can find me an AAC Valve for an R32 RB20det Silver top motor.... Working second hand is fine.... Bundle price??? Call 0433 123 024

All State cant get me one. They were very helpfull but unfortunatlly they ont have one in stock atm... It takes Nissan 3 weeks to get one and they want $320 for one... I can order direct from japan and pay $100 brand new inc postage. But i need one today.... Anyone got one????