rsx84

i know to reset the r31 you have to remove the battery terminals then leave it over-night or 24hours before it resets..

i'm in the process of putting coilovers in my car and will be getting new king springs for them, now the front have 400lb springs at the moment and just by pushing down the car will bounce up and down. what spring sets have people played with and ended up with?? lbs' front and rear?

i've just put coilovers in the front of my hr30 now they have 400lb springs, the car is not driven at the moment and i'm glad as i'd say it would be not nice ... all i have to do is push down on the front and it just bounces like a bobble head dog.. when were the shocks last changed?

you've got to take the adaptor plate off the r30 before you can put the s-13 hub on. if you look at this pic, i've high-lighted the corosponding s-13 hub parts. once you get a look at the hub it will all fall into place..

i'm using JIC s-13 coilovers with r32 GTS-T calipars and re-drilled gts-t rotors. with the ball joints i'm still using the r30 ones as they were fine, rubbers still in good nick, i might look at the s-13 steering arm to see if i could swap the ball joints over or at least that end part of the arm.

can you tell me which part in which picture your talking about? i think its the s-14/15 thats 5 stud?? i went 4 stud due to $2500 already spent on rims, and i dont have to change the rear end as well. i'll rename some of the pics

there are some bits to this that are beyond me but the whole process was quite easy... firstly what tools i needed, socket set, spanner set, hammer, rubber mallet, car stand, neddle nose plyers, WD40, screw driver, brake bleeding kit and a trolly jack.. firstly remove the wheel, i left the car sitting on a stand, i then blead the calipar then disconnected the rubber brake hose from the metal line. then i removed the calipar, next i unbolted the sway bar and the other bar next to it, next i undid the 2 bolts at the the bottom of the strut, this lets the lower section fall slowly to the ground. you can now remove the strut and rotor no problems, i then jacked the whole lower section up to a good level working hight to remove both nuts holding the unneeded hub part on. i then put the s-13 hub onto both the tapered bolts, finger tighten the nuts, next i put the coilover in and bolted it at the top, then i bolted the sway bar and other bar back on, then lined up the hub with the coilover, using the jack (still in the same place) i jacked up the hub part to line up the holes then slide the bolts in place, i then jacked the whole lot up and tighten the centre hub nut up. last thing i did was lower the trolly jack and it all sat in place, the rotors, once redrilled to 4 stud, slip on and then i bolted the calipar on. i did all this as a test as i still need to get the hub machined the match the tapered bolt on the steering arm, i need new brake lines to match the gts-t calipars and get the steering lined up straight. lastly make shaw you have rims that will fit?? mine is sitting there without the calipars on as the 15" TRX rims just dont fit anymore. the last 2 pics show the coilovers at the highest i could set them without a key and about 3cm from the bottom of the coilover, at the lowest setting i could'nt get the car off the trolly jack :uh-huh: :uh-huh: costs so far: reco'd front s-13 coilovers $690 s-13 hubs $190 front gts-t rotors/callipars $200 redrilling rotors $80 rear coilovers $200 need to be reco'd so thats another $200+ still yet to get brake lines to match the gts-t calipars to the r30 brake lines, custom bolts to fit the s-13 steering arm ends to the r30 system, new springs front and rear and new pads and a wheel alinement put curser over the pic for more info before clicking to enlarge pic!

mine are both tapered?? very much so...

I believe it's M-spec. I'm happy with $70 or something for it and i'll get pics together within a few days when I get hold of a digi cam *edit* btw it's 75 degrees sideways, i'm at Matt's computer and forgot to login.

it might be the other way round as the arm on the hub has just stopped, leaving about 3mm of thread showing...i might just get a grinder drill bit and trial and error it till it fits. i'll need a tap and die set too to fix the thread

the steering arm bolt and the hole on the s-13 hub dont match, the hole is just to small to let it slide down enough to put the pin in place, i've threaded the nut trying to tighten it so i'll get it rethreaded or a new steering rack (need power steering anyway).

got it off thanks guys, might need to machine the s-13 hubs a hairs width to let them slide on a bit deeper just so i can tighten it enough to put the pin back in... thanks guys..

not quite shaw yet as i got them from ebay, they are just a test fit thing at the moment, i'll see how they go then replace with brand new matching set and sell off these as a package, suspension/brake upgrade for a r30...

i need to get some coilover reco'd and was hopping someone knew of places on the gold coast or brisbane that can do it for me? cheers, matt...

where abouts are they coming to hold it?

what your saying is leave the bolts loose so the bit i'm trying to remove can move just enough to loosen but not dig into the threads...

thanks guys, i'll get the hammers out tomorrow! i've only started on the drivers side so far so i'll take pics when i do the other side, they'll be from my phone so not the best pics

burson's is that like supercheap or a suspension specialty place?

Ok i finally got around to the brake swap but have hit a snag, how does this bit come off as it seems to be stuck? or am i going about it the wrong way any hints??

i use the spitfire Vs' in both my cars, one turbo one N/A, they have platinum tips with a V pattern. in the rb20 i run 10psi on a standard turbo but soon i'll see how they go with a rb25 turbo at 14psi.... about $13 each as well.

i enjoyed driving a sigma

How, if you had the power, would you put an end to "hoons"? every few days i seem to read something, here and there, about hoons of all ages. if you were abel, how would you end this stero type?? are we talking driver training, state funded events, more power to the police??? what can WE do to fix this?

well done to williams, lets hope its speed not fuel.....

i wonder if they threw the engine away after that meet??

my old 82" r30 auto hatch would sit at about 3500rpm at 100km/h so that sounds about the same as the diff you have.