Basti

on advice from elsewhere aswell, im doing like you said. i now have 4 lines of power, each with a 120ohm resistor running in parralell. each of these power lines has four leds running off it in parralel. btw the leds aren't 20k, they are 30k and draw 75mA at 2.4V. anyway it seems to have worked this way from a quick test. now to see if it'll last. thatnks for your help dude

this problem has been present since before the last forum update. not the move to america but the one b4 that. its more of an annoyance hence why i didnt report earlier. when i hit the "view new posts" button, it displays posts since my last log on (normal). all of these topics usually have the new post icon and the 'go to last unread' unless i have read them after logging on and b4 viewing new posts. however on occasion, all topics are displayed as being read, even ones that i have never entered, posted in or have just been created. this can occur halfway down a page, or on moving to the next page of topics etc, for every page following. refreshing doesnt help. neither does hitting view new posts again. i assume the only way this is fixed is by logging out and in again because this is only an occasional thing. say 1/5 logins or "view new posts" in the 1st pic below, the topic by O-K-Y-B (leaving vic) i have never read and the one after has a new post that i didnt read till later. the second pic shows the 2nd page of that set of "new posts". again i have never been active in the 2nd - 5th topics on that page. im using : Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.1; en-GB; rv:1.8.1.3) Gecko/20070309 Firefox/2.0.0.3 on adsl thanks

you need another option in the second set. i have no reason to drive interstate. but i'd be very willing to take my car.

you need to be able to read the plate at a 45 degree angle on the left and right side of the car. i know pepple that have been done for this even though there was no other place to put the plate on their front bar. basically the plate has to be at the very front of the car and facing dead straight. then you'll have no problems. i've seen one dude use a spacer to fix this problem. like the pic below. red is what most ppl have when they move their plate. blue *should* be acceptable

care to pm the shop and price?

thanks for your reply dude. doesnt matter if i connect all the neg points into one wire does it? as long as theres 4 leds per parralell circuit? because what i've done is to connect the two neg lines and run a single positive/neg 2core wire out. so the circuit is actually like this i thought this technically means im running all 16 in parralell. but it makes sens what you said cos only four leds are working.

as some of you may or may not know a few of us have been trying to make the boot garnishes of our r33's light up. see here. anyway i tried to wire it up in this way the leds are rated at 2.1v each and have a current draw of 50mA (see here). dunno if tey are the same as mine cos i swear the dude sed 30,000mcd not 20k. but this is the best values i can find. now here's my problem. i hooked it up to the car the other day and only two and a half letters llit up. took it apart and only four of my leds are working. any dead ones that i replace are immediatly blown. i am getting headaches trying to figure this out. is it my resistor? am i drawing too much current? am i using homosexual components? if there is no solution can someone confrim that the car runs at 13.4v and 10A? maybe i can figure this out another way Help!!

nothing. they used to be a lot cheaper than the series 2 is all. thats y i got one. same car, just a different look btw there's no such thing as a 1.5. its an sau term for a latemodel series 1

awesome thread. too bad im shit at the photographia. deakin uni in burwood is also good at night. very modern architecture and some good open carparks

kms on a jap import mean nothing. look more towards the condition of the car. there's a good guide on what to look for in the tutorials section of these forums. it aimed at r33's but most of that stuff could be applied to other cars too. i rekon you should get a r33 s2 as mentioned above. at that price on todays market you are gonna score a really nice one with a few basic mods. or you could try to find a stock r34 gtt. i think even r33 gtrs are close to that mark nowadays (shame really) there was a dude selling a nice example on sau for about the 25k mark. anyway gl with ur decision and hopefully another 'line will be cruising around

split dumps try to minimise the turbulence in the exhaust which you get when the wastegate opens. it separates the two flows until further down the pipe. therefore the longer the two flows remain separate and the smoother the two pipes join up, the better its gonna be. you need to look at the pics of each. i dont know bout the fitment of either model. you also need to consider where the o2 sensor hole is placed. im guessing that both have good fitment and design* so its probably up to your tastes *note i havent actually seen either of these pipes

fuses. two of them under the dash. shoulda prolly figured out that one by myself . thanks anyway guys for those wondering, there is a red 10a in the boot relay that affects the normal tail lights. 3rd one from the back of the car counting frowards. i also had to replace the 15a fuse under the dash (its blue and its the one on the right when facing forwards (there's two side by side)). this i think affects the brakelights. and another 10a that i believe was unrelated and fixed my broken ciggie lighter. cant remember which one it was but i think its the 4th on the left counting downwards.

have checked the brake lights themselves. where is the brakelight fuse? are you talking about thte one in the boot cos that doesnt do much when replaced edit: ok i checked the boot and under the hood but i forgot to check in the dash fuse box. from what i found through searching on here there doesnt seem to be any relavant fuses in there but doesnt hurt to look

i got bad luck farken!. finished the painting today and all the build and shizz. just needed to get it wired in. managed to stuff it up somehow and lose functioning brake lights. another thing, the garnish itself is shitting me. the one time i managed to get it hooked up right to the car, i light it up full of anticipation and what do i see but -K---NE! only four out of my 16 led array work. so i had to cut off the sickaflex (man i used alot) from the back, break the loctite adhesions, remove all the blown leds and replace (thank god for that generous jaycar dude). wire it back up and connect to car. POP same four leds surviving. its like they kill the rest cos they r jealous or sumshit. i tried replacing just the surving leds but they pop too. wtf? time for another trip to jaycar and a new approach. will try Al's circuit this time. dunno y mine didnt work. maybe the resistor isnt big enough? on the plus side, my painting has improved slightly. although that too is far from perfect. sigh. 'nite fellas

hey guys i've been recently trying to hook up some a light up boot garnish to my hotplates. anyhoo. i got to the back of the taillights and there are 3 wires - black, green/yellow stripe and green/white stripe. black is obviously earth, but i was confused as to which green was the brakes and which the norm hotplates. to figure this out i turned the ignition on and the lights, then shorted the two green wires to the earth one @ a time. my thinking was that which ever short didnt affect the normal hotplates should be the one for the brakes. when i touched the green/white one nothing happened. when i touched the green/yellow, i blew the 10a fuse thats in the box next to the battery.. replaced the fuse and the taillights work fine. BUT the brakes dont light up anymore. the bulbs are all fine and i checked all visible (from the boot) connections seem ok. i also tried swapping the aircon fuse thingy from the fusebox under the hood with the one that is attached to the back of the boot (they look exactly the same) but i dunno what effect it has. there is no current flowing in the brake power line though i am now feeling extremely idiotic and frustrated and im regretting this DIY attempt. however before i give up, can anyone suggest what if anything have i blown and how do i fix this? as you can probably tell i have no experience so try to keep any descriptions to a simple level apologies for the long read but more info = better answers i hope ps i dunno if this belongs here. mods feel free to move

hicas is a 4ws steering system that you have no controll over. say if you are taking a corner at a certain speed and you've picked your line and all that stuff (i dunno i dont race), hicas may decide to kick in unexpectedly and change the way you car handles. like mentioned above it only kicks in above 80 or so km/h so not really a problem in daily driving. but twisties and onn the track is a different story

shaun: hmm you're right bout the factory ones. they still look like the stock s1 in the day. its probably done with a stencil insert on the inside and the el sheet behind that. i rekon its probably a lot easier than painting the outside (masking etc)

smokin has nothing to do with damage to his car. having said that, quit man you'll enjoy your car more (4 longer:P) similar thing happened to me last nite. was studying late with my gf @ deakin uni. come back to my car and there footprints on my drivers side front fender and mud from the nearby gutter on my drivers window. luckily all they did was scuff my paint slightly but FFS WHY?

haha like i said...im slow. lol. so you ready to reveal your technique yet?

werd edit: well almost - i did have 5k saved up

dude if you have a read through this thread most of your answers will be easy to find. however if you wanna wait about a week (maybe two lol) i'll be done making mine. been taking lotsa pics and i'll be writing a how-to/diy tute thingamabob. btw progress update: finished making the light panel and all electric prep. to be done: mounting the leds in the garnish + painting WATCH THIS SPACE!!!!

nice work bro. tip for ya. when you drop it, select the black shadows in the wheel arches too that way it looks like more than just a shell on wheels. i did a quick chop for ya. dropped it, stretched the kit a bit and filled in some shadows in the arches. looks more natural i think. (ignore my crap skills) hope you dont mind a bit of criticism

hey mat you wanna go halvies on a double pack? one of us can buy the thing and bring it to the crooze and the other just bring your share of the moolah. if you're up for it its just a matter of finding a set thats cheaper this way

if you dont like it say so. but theres no need to be baggin on another dude's pride an joy. i rekon it looks nuts

im gonna buck the trend and say get another apexi panel. they have better flow and filtration and an added bonus is that you dont have to oil them. oil is illegal in vic and can also f**k around with your afm. as to buying an apexi locally i wouldn't have a clue. i do know that repco, autobarn and supercheap didnt stock them when i was looking (few months back). try kudos motorsports in the trader section. top bloke and you wont be dissapointed