Basti

dunno much bout lots but i gather from reading up on here that it gives you lotsa neg camber. you need a camber kit to fix it. my advice...wait for people who know their shit to post b4 following my advice

if you could find that case it would be awesome. id pay double that if i could drive my car legally. off the top of your head, why didnt it set a precedent? i thought any case can be used as a precedent because its up to the second judge to decide if its relevant (yr 10 legal studies talking). and how did he end up in court in the first place? before or after getting dicked?

road racing = grip/circuit racing. as opposed to drag or drift. i think thats what he means

exactly what i wanted to know dude. thanks. i thought the pic looked kinda blotchy but wanted to know if it was good in real life

i get ya. nice work. hows the spread of the light from the LED tubes(?) look? is it even or can you kinda make out bright and dark spots? ive just started building mine. managed to cut out the back plastic in one piece using my dremel. i'll post pics up of the bits when im done. wont be soon though as im kinda slow with this kinda stuff

hmmm. this sounds too complicated for me to be messing with. id love to save costs but not confident at all doing things to my brakes. so ive now gotta take off calipers and rotors and take the lot to a brake shop? they'll do all the reconditioning and stuff for me right? no need for a caliper reco kit. thanks guys. your help is appreciated

dremel ftw

haha sweet! i'll bring the brownies:thumbsup:

thanks bec. i did have a look at that before but wasnt sure that validity meant you had to be on it. eg get off in 2 years, drive on your full, but still have a valid p. dont think i really thought that thru. thanks anyway

feck! just lost 3 points. my fault, had it coming. somebody clear this up for me. my mate rekons that p plates last only until you turn 21 and then you get your full licence. i was under the impression that it takes 3 years from time of issue till you can move on to your full.

my thoughts exactly. cbf finding a pic though .

as a "hippie" im more than happy to put an animal out of its misery if i happen to hit it on the roads. however its a whole different scenario when said animal is confined in a vacant lot, deliberately chased down, run over and then clubbed (possibly w/o regard to if the thing was actually dying or not), purely for my enjoyment. what would you call me then i wonder sky031? (by me i mean all those who expressed disgust at this event)

nice, if a little high what part of melbz are you from. i hardly ever see a stag around these parts

heres mine. no show and not much go ..... yet

what i meant was when i bleed, do i drain all the old fluid, fill system with new and then get all the air out or just bleed, and top up whatever is left in the resevoir. i guess thats gonna be clearer to me once i go look up those DIY threads.

thats odd cos i got my mechanic to do a bleed with my last service and there wasnt much improvement. i'll try it soon. theres a tutorial on here somewhere. do you guys recommend that i completely repalce my fluid or just top it up? tacker what do you mean 'get my disc skimmed'? do you mean machining? i've heard of this but i dunno what is involved. where can i get it done and is this gonna put my car off the road for long? thanks for the replies guys

hey guys ive got a few problems with my brakes and id like some help on how to fix em No 1: the biggest and most concerning one. i have almost no braking power. it does shit all decelleration wise when i press the pedal up to about 3/4. i get almost no response until im at the very end of the pedal's travel with a very slight effect in the last 1/4. and even then it isnt that strong. ie i can hardly lock my wheels going from 60 to 0 (it happens, just very late). cos of this i usually end up very close to other cars in traffic. No 2: less dangerous and more annoying. when im stopped at the lights and i try to let the car creep forward slightly i get a shuddering groan. dissapears if i let up the pedal a bit more but its always present at the point where its a comfortable slow movement forward. No 3: ive got a very loud squeal when reversing. sounds like its coming from the rear calipers. its not present on froward movement whats wrong and how can i fix these things? my car is a '95 r33 s1. stock except for catback so its not power overcoming braking (esp 1 and 2)

haha nice work! was bored out of my mind today. will do this in the morning. one question though, do the stockers have a clearcoat on them? coz mine have white discolouration and slight webbing. i thought it was because the wheel cleaner i was using was too harsh. this is gonna need stripping bak b4 i prime isnt it?

its written out two posts up

whats the difference in function then?

dude do you know how to read?

mate im sure the roos you see chopped up in shops weren't beaten to death with a stick. im also sure that when they do kill them they make sure the critters aren't carrying joeys too. thats why its illegal - how these animals died was cruel and needless

dude....no.... EDIT: wtf? i didnt want that smiley. post fixed

what you bought was an apexi pod with a stock nissan air flow meter attatched. what you have is a K&N pod with a stock nissan air flow meter attatched. its the same unit. why remove something if it aint broke? separate the apexi and its afm, sell this afm, remove K&N from car (leave the original afm in car), put apexi onto original afm, sell/chuck K&N. EDIT: just to make this a bit clearer to you dude go check out apexi's website. they sell the power intake and also a super suction kit which is intended to replace your afm but do not include it in the kit. in fact im pretty sure apexi or K&N never made an afm (i may b wrong). therefore you cannot buy a new pod that comes with an afm. you have bought a second hand one that wasnt separated from the afm it was originally bolted to

you got limewire? just type 'photoshop' or 'photoshop cs2' and bob's ur uncle.