Jump to content
SAU Community

WRRR

Members
  • Posts

    350
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by WRRR

  1. Thanks guys. It's amazing how your thinking can get too narrow. All this talk about flexible loops and such and here I am with about 30m of dynamica rope in the shed with the 4wd. The stuff is rated at about 8.5 tonne and temp and oil friendly and soft so it shouldn't gouge if it flaps. I'll have a good look at mount locations and cut and splice a bit in.
  2. Cheers Ant. I hadn't thought about the flexible ones. I'll see if I can find some info. I had thought about one of the drop down (hinged) ones for the front but attaching it to something suitable is the issue. If you can't get the point way forward I can see spoilers etc being ripped off - or maybe my tendency to over-engineer means I am trying to find a place for something way too big??? I'll see if anyone else has a pearler or two.
  3. Guy's Thinking about putting a bit of track time in with the GTR and hoping to receive some wisdom from the more knowing among the group. Where have/do you mount towing points on a R33 GTR? Ideally I would like some that can be left on on the street without looking like an eacaped race car but open to all suggestions. Front and rear. Detailed descriptions of the mounts and what tow hooks etc would be great. Thanks
  4. Not sure if the 34 is different but have a look at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ga...40#entry3501164
  5. MR33 Interested as a spare but would like some pics. Still waiting. Cheers
  6. No dramas. Although I would be surprised if it worked out cheaper from the UK. Their asking price is usually in line with oz dollar prices but in pounds and conversion usually makes the total price look pretty sick. GL though.
  7. Hey I don't get paid them either. I just have to charge them - return to shareholders (lol) they seem to expect a big cut for some reason. Has the new car got Brembos? If so don't buy any second hand rotors locally as someone went to the trouble of taking my old ones from the curbside collection. WTF only good for weights in a cray pot. I hope someone doesn't machine the lips off and tries to flog them to some unsus.
  8. Looks like a Sunday cruise to blow out the cobwebs might be in order. GL with the rotors. Did you upgrade to the bigger brakes?
  9. When will the twat in a white R32 be heading up? Might come for a quiz.
  10. Go to your boost control solenoid - the cylinder laying on its side with the gold band and mount near your drivers side strut tower. Pull back the protective cover on the pipe going towards the front of the car attached to the top of the boost control solenoid. If you feel down that pipe about 50mm you should feel a hard section near the yellow painted ring. There's the restrictor. Cheers
  11. '98 R33 GTR stock - except for Kakimoto cat back. 180kW at the wheels (Bel Garage - pre-purchase check up) Now ~ x2
  12. Try the bride rails to suit SR3 for the GTR. Driver and passenger are different. I got some RX rails from Jackie at CJ Motors on Nissan Silvia. They were about $250 each delivered from memory. They are meant to drop the seat position by about 30mm which should leave the SR3 at a similar height to standard as they seem to have more seat base height than the GTR seats. My new SR3's just landed from J and are due to go in when I drop some lard lol - just a wee bit tight for road comfort - probably tolerable on the track. Off for a run we go....
  13. Welding a recutting holes could be a pita. Have you thought about grabbing a die grinding burr and grind the holes out to the new round (or other) clean shape. Easy to do and you could even do it with an electric drill instead of a pencil grinder if you don't mind side loading the bearings for a while. Given it is only light plate it shouldn't hurt the drill much if at all. If you go down this path I would suggest spend a bit of time taping joints etc where the grinds may end up. Once they get stuck in a join etc you will never get them out and they will rust leaving a shitty looking mark. If the holes work out a bit oversize just make up a rubber sealing gasket or run in some pinchweld edging and make it look like that was how it was meant to be Cheers
  14. "Got one and it's very quiet. Parked the car while this old grandma was walking by one day and she didn't even give me a dirty look" I think Sewid is onto it. If you want quiet don't go near the Kakimoto Hyper 2000 Full Mega N1. With big (3") dumps/pipes from the turbs through a 3.5" Metalcat to the hyper it is way loud. I am experimenting with removable silencers but if that doesn't work the Regu is on the cards.
  15. These days blueprinting has become the term for rebuilding to exact specs. In the old days that was machine and assemble to the specs drawn up on blueprints - ie now cad or similar. (you've seen Mythbusters) Idea being with a "blueprint" and full balance you get all common components machined and balanced to very tight specs. Result being you minimise unwanted variations that may add to dynamic balance issues, vibrations, .... etc. ie you end up with a sweet engine if you get it right. FWIW I would be doing it while its in bits especially if you are going to push the output.
  16. I bow in esteemed reverence. What an undertaking and result.
  17. Tom Picked up a set 245/40/18 ZR 595SS fitted and balanced for $240ea and they had to be delivered to Bunbury for that price. Up in the smoke I would expect to do better than that. Jump onto Antilag there is/was a guy there doing cheap tyres that may be worth a look - various brands. Cheers
  18. Tom I have just put a set of 245/40/18 Federal 595 onto some 18x9.5 +21 offset rims. From the look of them I wouldn't like to go any smaller (but I don't like the stretch look at all). If you believe Federal the 235/40/18 recommended rim width is 7-9 so on a 9.5 there is a bit of stretch. Again from Federal the tread width on the 245/40/18 and the 265/35/18 (595SS) is the same (220mm) but recommended rim widths are different 8-9.5 vs 9-10.5. The 265 are also a little smaller in dia. If you are heading south anytime soon you can do a fit up if you really want to have a look as I won't be fitting them untill I move an oil cooler and fix a couple of other little things. Hope it helps. Cheers
  19. Kane Sorry for the next to useless reply. i need to read posts a bit closer. Tacker is right, but I hope you are a patient contortionist. I had enough trouble on the bench. Good luck.
  20. Kane You will need to slot out the standard oil drain to fit the 2860-5. Pita as it doesn't need to go and awfull lot but enough to make you spend a bit of time one the round file - unles you're a lucky bugger with and air file or similar. I got fussy and trimmed the gasket to fit all pretty. Cheers ps my 2860-5 had what looked like oil restrictors fitted when i got them.
  21. Fits my experience. I still fight with the JB Full Monty in my GTR. Jumping from car to car to 4wd etc and then get into the GTR occasionally - bastard red faces me every time. You try to be quiet/gentle taking off in traffic and it is easy to stall. If rolling ever so slightly its fine and you do get used to it again fairly quickly. I have noticed it is not a clutch to ride as it glazes quickly and needs a bit of harder action to clean it up. Can launch like a rocket though. Just need bigger sunglasses and darker tint on the windows. lol
  22. Jump over to Nissan Silvia and look up CJ Motor under the Platinum sponsor area. Jackie had some Bride rails available to suit R33 at a prety good price. I bought L & R to put SR3 Recaro's into a GTR. Rails are designed to sit lower than stock but need to as the SR3 sit higher than the GTR seats. Hope it helps. Cheers
  23. Does anyone know where the fuse for the R33 GTR boost controller solenoid is located? I have lost the ebc function, the solenoid works if 12 volt are applied but there is no voltage at the plug that goes back into the engine fuse box. There must be a fuse somewhere that feeds that plug. All help appreciated. Cheers
  24. One possiblity is - Get underneath and have a good look at your exhaust. Assuming there are no obvious holes if you can see carbon marks at any of the joins you have a leak. On overrun you can get cool air drawing back into the hot exhaust, expanding and thus popping. Cheers
  25. Assuming you want R33 try - Nissan or Just Jap have them on this forum. Or maybe try http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t180256.html - Geoff897
×
×
  • Create New...