cheez

thanks mate, appreciate that

just wanting to know will he SAFC2 be ok on an R34GTT with rb25det neo engine? or will i need an SAFC Neo. may seem a bit of a nooby question, but am unsure. had a r33 now getting an r34.

ive test drove both, exactly the same. the have the same handling setup and sae diff and gear ratios. neither have been molested before by the looks of the interiors and engine bays.

hey guys, as some of you may know, about 3 weeks ago i road off my r33gtst on the gor cruise. the time has come and so has the insurance money, to buy another car and am now in a position to buy an r34. Write off was a good excuse to upgrade. Car 2: 99 R34GTT. grey, nismo kit (factory kit) other than that standard. thanks in advance for some help with my decision. MY BEAST IS BELOW

stock ecu is a learning ecu. if they are reset or things change they adjust accordingly in very minor increments. that would explain the time taken for the car to adjust to the bov change.

rear pods are the add on sections behind the wheel arches. they come over the top of the rear quarters and create a complete look to the car. i think that the colours are the same. check your colour coed in the engine bay. most gtst's are QM1 white.

there is no actual piping kits that are made to suit the front facing plenum. most people just get the pipe custom fabricated. and if i were you i would use the q45 throttle body over the 80mm. no need to weld anything, and they make an adaptor plate if it doesnt fit.

tbh i am thinking along the lines of another turbo. either rex, line or xr6turb

car has been written off guys. only cos the rear reo shifted the floor pan and caused some damage there.

if i get the skyline fixed i definitly will. if it gets ridden off i dont kknow what car yet. if its another skyline, yeh ill be a member and forget the cruises and stick to deca and track days.

heres the video that i took on the side of the road. as for dangerous, a little but every person has their own brain. http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=s_t3IJmR5UU

u got pm. btw if it keeos stalling, do u have an atmo bov by chance? this could also be an issue

.

.

didnt do a count but would estimate it at around 30-40cars

.

cruise is tomoz guys. looking to be some awesome weather, wash ur babies and see you all at either the pre meet or main meet points. just to confirm, its gor to apollo bay and then back through winchelsea. we will NOT take the gor back regardless of the weather.

ive done the same only i used a high temp sealant over a gaffa tape base to solidify the job. ill be making a custom snorkel soon to replace the hacked up one.

im getting my car re-sprayed over summer but doing all the disassemble-assemble work myself so the panel shop just needs to rub the car back and spray. ill be masking it up myself to. the most expensive part of re-spraying a car is the labor. it takes time to prep the car which is what ill be doing and the spray part of the job, that includes repairing 2 areas and rubbing the whole car back, is only costing me about 1200. SLYNE is getting his car done with me at the same time

vote labor for more strippers!!! i am.

it sounds like an afm issue. check to make sure your afm plug is in properly. if it is borrow some1's afm and swap it out to check if its your issue. this will be the most likely cause. if its deemed the issue, search the tutorial forum for "afm repair" and follow the rb26 repair tutorial to fix dry cracked solder. ' keep us updated to things you try to fix the issue and if it gets fixed

check the for sale section of the forums. good place to start as many exhausts are posted up for sale there.

wats the offset? they only fit the bck of the s15 where they rubbing front or hitting brakes?

was it a series 1 33 or a series 2? if it was a 2, how much u want for the dash pad and also the stereo surround and gear boot surround?

boost: at the line between 0 and +7 at full boost (+7 = 1bar = 13.8psi) oil: around 3 on the standard gauge when warm and rising to about 3/4 way or 7 at high rpm and quick rising rpm. stock turbo is T3. good for 12psi max. main thing to have in ur car would be boost only. keep and eye on boost spikes if u up the boost. fluids to change would be oil, transmisson, power steering, brakes too. only when necessary. service the car regularly with the same mechanic and hell be able to keep an eye on what is needed. with regards to ur grinding noise, its got me stumped. if it was the turbo it would have blown if it was rubbing on the housing. grinding noise could be a rubbing tyre on guard liner or soemthing more than a turbo issue. get a workshop to look at the car. one that understands turbo's.