MBS206

How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....

Do a compression test, and a bore scope on the cylinder that lost parts of the plug. Chances are, that cylinder isn't so happy anymore...

Update from today; Hard work was completed today behind a computer... Ha ha Hardlines for new fuel lines ordered, and fittings for it to connect up too. Banjo fittings for owner steer ordered too, will be AN fittings. Ordered all the weld on fittings I need to build the PS reservoir too. Only things I'll need left for power steer is a couple of off the shelf fittings for the pump, and to build 3 lines.

Are there any wiring looms that weren't swapped? Were all the dash looms changed etc?

Or get a guy in his early fiftys to do it. A single good "oof" and about two cracks from his lower back is about the right tightness...

It's all about reducing the overall output. Reduce the source of it, you have wayyyy less to deal with in every other step and trick you play with. It's why something like a modern vehicle, so VW, Audi etc, there's thousands of tables for the ECU to calculate what it should be doing with the engine. Why would you NOT reduce emissions the most effective way possible, when it has very minimal tradeoff, AND manufacturers are always struggling to meet the current standards.

Yesterday's day in review: All the wiring to the lights up the front how I want it, is ran, terminated, and all to length. The only lighting up front I haven't finished is the side indicators, as I need to get to the partly cutup factory loom, and find the plugs for them. Interesting note, the side indicators use the exact same plug that's in the doors for something else that I don't remember what it is... So that plug better be careful... Power steering solenoid, on the R33 is variable, and from memory PWM. The Ford's control from the docs I have so far, is it's just a on or off control. So I'm not sure it's what I want, and in any case, power steering running, but at its heaviest (solenoid off) is likely what I'll want anyway, so I'm not yet touching it at all. All the wiring I can complete so far, is done. There are 3 wires I need to make a plug for at the ECU, and these are just for the vehicle speed sensor, of which I need to get a T5 from an AU, so I can use its output that has the speed sensor on it. (My car doesn't have ABS, otherwise I'd set it up to use one of the ring gears on that). I need to buy new headlight globes and front parker globes, otherwise I could show photos of lights working. Current fuel lines in and out on this motor are "5/16". I'll order hardline, and some AN fittings for that, and I just need to 100% check fuel line size at the tank end, to get the ends for it. I'm also looking at a few options for the banjo bolts to AN fittings for the power steering rack. I'll pull the reservoir off the Barras PS pump. There's an off the shelf fitting for that pump for a -10 AN feed, and it'll use a 16mm to dash -6 an outlet to feed the rack. I'll be making my own power steering reservoir, I'm going through the thought process at the moment of how I'll run the baffles, and I need to research another idea for it too.

Two inlet runners changes the engines characteristics requiring less fuel to make torque at different points in the rev range. The smaller diameter inlet runners on the DET increases air flow speed, which improves atomisation of fuel, particularly in low load/idle for better burn, and in specific areas of the engine, (areas you would use when driving normally) increases the efficiency. All of those items change how efficient the engine is at different speeds. The changes on the neo help slightly to improve emissions where it matters. The overall improvements won't be the likes of going from an engine built in the 70s to an engine built in the 2000s, it's just a small step. But still leaves it the RB with the best chance of improvement. As for your comment about the whole using a cat to not need to worry about those gases. Two things, no system is 100% perfect. It won't eliminate everything. So reduce the quantity you put into it, you still reduce the output. Two, make that system do less work, and it's likely to survive a little bit longer. Funnily enough to, one trick employed to get cats up to temp, AND to drastically reduce emissions before they get up to temp, is to reduce ignition timing.

I don't have the budget, or mind set for that game. I see their stuff, would like that setup, but won't justify the price when something at 1/10th the price works adequately for me. Or if I can manufacture it myself, I'll do that instead of buy it.

At peak pressure for peak torque, you reach the pressures and temps that produce more NOx. Hit google up. When tuning to reduce COx, timing dramatically increases NOx. It's science. As for changes, there was changes to the inlet plenum/runners to alter air speed for emissions purposes. On the DE model, it has the two different inlet runners that the ECU can swap between too.

100% agree. Best bet on an RB will be NEO, but even it will be a long way off. Emissions is one of the big reasons car manufacturers went to DBW and constantly variable cams. When cruising, open the throttle right up, but reduce dynamic compression so low, that it's basically an unrestricted air pump moving very little air.

Many many moons ago, I was chatting with Andy Wyatt, about his auto ignition tuning. One of the HUGE things he said to me, when tuning for power, right where you hit peak ignition timing for your max torque, dramatically increases NOx emissions. He was finding in testing, particularly on engines you could advance timing beyond peak torque, that backing the ignition timing off a couple of degrees only made for a small drop in torque (compared to if you keep backing it off further the same amount of degrees) but dramatically reduced NOx emissions. I'd say targetting for 14.7, and he's even mentioned in some scenarios going slightly leaner, and pulling a few degrees of IGN timing will help pass for emissions quite a lot. However, who tunes an RB for emissions

The main stuff from.Vibrant I see is more their intercooler piping, and everyone raving about their clamps, but when I looked it was about $150 per clamp... I was a bit I also thought the public price SP had up was high. As Mark said, a normal exhaust shop can fab them. It was many years ago that I had a full exhaust built, but for a full turbo back exhaust, and 2 custom built mufflers, plus a high flow cat, was about $1,100, and that was fully installed, drive in, drive out. I believe SP was about $900 for 2 mufflers, just supplied These days, I just buy the material and built it myself, because I need to stretch my $$$

I'm not sure if I'm just out of touch these days, but is Vibrants stuff not ridiculously expensive? I understand it's quality, but even for high quality it seems insanely expensive.

I'd be just as worried about the part where they say "we won't be responsible for colour matching, if the undamaged area has deteriorated from new". So basically, they just need to paint it in the factory spec colour, but give no f**ks for the age of the vehicle etc, and are happy to make it look like dogs balls.

More sad that it's month inbetween drives of his Skyline.

At work we've got a smaller version of the Projecta that Duncan posted above. At home, I have an ALDI trickle charger. Ive had it for about 8 years now. Only issue with it, it's a smart charger, so if the battery is dead, it won't bring it up, but I have a variable power supply that I limit current on, and set to a max of 14.4v. once it starts charging up, I put the aldi unit on and remove the variable PSU. ALDI one will do 12v, or 6v, then has mode for "car" "motorbike", and "snow". With car or motorbike more for its internal workings, and snow is the trickle mode. I have a battery in the garage that lives on this charger for about the last 18 months now on Snow mode. When I need to charge my other batteries (eg, ones that have died in a car), I get them started and then run it on car mode. Voltage is always sitting really nice, and hasn't killed a battery yet. that charger isn't good for things like Lithium batteries etc, I'd only use it on Lead Acid.

Having a read online, need to get the emission standard from their logbook, or the manufacturer as to what Euro it meets. If it doesn't meet it, you can modify the car to meet it, and then go through a big government process. As vehicle is pre Euro4, it won't be meeting it. I'd honestly doubt anything but the NEO motors have a chance of getting near the EURO4. NEO is specifically for getting better emissions.

Can't remember, sorry! It was while I was going around for random stuff last week with COVID

There's a Vic drifter who has a vid on YouTube where he does some head drains like your setup, and gets them in some good spots and it also stops the potential for oil pooling in the hose and reducing its effective diameter.

If you're driving something like an R32 through to R34, no chance of meeting Euro4. Euro4 came out in 2006, and car manufacturers back then were complaining how hard it would be to meet those regulations. Not a chance a vehicle 10 years earlier is going to be compliant.

I don't even go that hard core. I just say "how do you expect me to stay, when you increase my premium, and reduce the value of the car?" Then play a game of shut the f**k up. Most of the time it's a computer that did the adjustment, and the people will happily change it around for you.

He's already pulled the motor, and I believe sent it to the builder. TurboTaipan has a cool build thread in the projects area you can follow on for more updates too

I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done. But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.

Do you have a mid muffler?