-
Posts
22,612 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
53 -
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by MBS206
-
R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build
MBS206 replied to TurboTapin's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Honeywell... Ha ha ha an engineer friend left them about 18 months ago due to how bad of a shit show they were. Even she was bitching about how badly they run projects, and the programming issues they're constantly having within the projects. -
R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build
MBS206 replied to TurboTapin's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place... -
Well, I managed some time today and did start some of the welding on the PS Res. Absolutely no photos at the moment as today has confirmed what I've known for a long time. I need a LOT of practise welding aluminium... TIG is new to me... So yes, my welds are going to be butt ugly, and that annoys me and my perfectionism. Hence, no photos. When I did my design, my brain put together a backup plan in the event I couldn't reach properly inside to weld it... And I can't reach properly inside to weld it, so I need to enact my backup plan, which means I need to cut the main tube... The only powered saw I have big enough to cut 100mm diameter tube, is my big band saw and it needs an overhaul and new band put on, as it won't cut straight (And has wayyy too high of a TPI for alu anyway). The original cut that I did yesterday to cut it down to 350mm length I did by hacksaw. Let me tell you, the not overly active guy, with ADHD nearly started three different projects while cutting through that pipe, and today, my back and arms are killing me for trying to be active... So I've decided I'm NOT pulling out the hacksaw today to chop it down...
-
Modern reg stuff now, they'd have a wide input range which would push through a buck converter, it would need to be able to maintain voltage for cranking conditions (sub 9V at times). Likely runs something like an internal 6V rail, and then further voltage regulators depending on which circuit/area it is feeding. Modern voltage regs, like what I'm starting a new power supply design with at work, will let me run a 5V rail output, and as long as my input is equal to or greater than 5V, I have a 5V output. Except I'm not pushing a 5V rail in our system as I don't need one, we're setting up for a 3.8V rail. Our new design will allow me 6 to 60VDC input, and everything else doesn't care, even when I start pushing a few Amp outputs. Realistically, the voltage drop off could be caused by a few things though, one could be literally the alternator is dieing, and hence charge power is dropping, which also means on a straight hard pull you're starting to send the battery flat... (Not that likely from a single couple of gear pull if the battery was fully charged). However, having earth issues, like stray earths not connected, or someone having put a ground loop in, will see the ECU appear to end up with lower voltage "input", mainly because the "ground" is no longer equivalent to battery negative. If they're comparing the input voltage using sensory ground for example, and sensor ground is what is in that ground loop, than the sensor output voltage will actually start to be reduced, when compared to battery ground... Yeah, ground wiring design can start to be a bitch... Also voltage going weird from inductive loads not being managed properly is another real bitch... Hence, why I asked above about how everything was wired in. If OP knows, and can post all of the actual connections from the ECU pin out, as well as what wires are joined where in the loom, which grounds from the ECU have ground points and where they are etc. Would help to see if there is a ground issue. The part I'd start with though, is putting a mechanical oil pressure gauge on to confirm the theory. Otherwise the next track day when the threshold is lowered could result in another of @Duncan favourite types of jokes... Knock knocks... Pretty sure this is what @GTSBoy is also self high fiving... Is all great that we have a decent theory... But they need to prove it before relying on it...
-
R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build
MBS206 replied to TurboTapin's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
When I worked at BlueScope Steel, we had an Ethernet network, with every switch setup with a duplicate switch. Even when looking at all the primary switches, they had duplicate links, there was then also duplicated links between the primary in section A, to the duplicate in section B. So for each location that had networking, there was 8 network links. This was all back around 2007. That setup caused sooooo many issues, as many of those links were fibre. The network guys ran everything with Spanning Tree Protocol. And then we had great joy... The FOC Transceivers were slowly dieing, but in an intermittent way. And a lot of the time as they started to die, they'd drop offline for about 30 seconds... Spanning Tree Protocol was requiring 45 seconds to "rewire" the network... And by the time it was mostly finished, it had to start again as the transceiver was back online... Queue entire production network being constantly spammed with the spanning tree protocol messages... My god I do NOT miss working in huge environments like that! -
Don't turn down the limit yet. Put a mechanical pressure gauge on the car in the same spot and go and prove it.
-
It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks. I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard. The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
-
The log you did with ECU voltage, can you log the other things too like rpm and oil pressure? Need all that info together to compare easily
-
Editting as I hit post to soon, and this will lock out otherwise.
-
If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out. PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
-
R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build
MBS206 replied to TurboTapin's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to. Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables. I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on? -
It doesn't seem to follow revs. Oddly it seems to follow TPS a little bit from what I can see, but with some delay a bit. IE end of the graph, when he lets off throttle fully, pressure drops a lot, then slowly builds back up, but rpm is on a nice cruisey drop off. I do agree though, it seems very electrically.
-
You are also getting pressure dips on gear shifts. They're just not dipping as far, but they're dipping quite below the amount of oil pressure you should be seeing, for how much RPM drops. It quite little could be the oil pressure relief valve is starting to stick open a little/is slow to close.
-
Can you log battery voltage, and TPS, and put all four of those into a single image (even as split graphs)? The oil pressure drops aren't following RPM as such. I'm intrigued if you may have a ground loop between different sensors. With the engine not running, log your sensors and for example cycle the throttle pedal. See if any sensor values flutter or move about. This won't be a perfect test either as the ECU won't be cycling all of its actuators like it would be while running. What EMTRON do you have? Do you have a link to the wiring guide for that ECU?
-
R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build
MBS206 replied to TurboTapin's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
What logic functions do you feel are missing from the Haltech that others have? Is there a limit to how much logic you can string together? By limit, I mean it's like only a single level or two levels of Boolean logic. Realistically, AND, OR, and NOT, is really the only logic you need and realistically, you can also do away with another logic gate of the three above . With those three you can build the full functionality of any Boolean logic you want. -
Even a strong magnet underneath will let you use it to chase the one inside to the drain hole.
-
Is r33 gtr steering wheel the same as the gtst?
MBS206 replied to PotatoCake's topic in Exterior & Interior Styling
Most of the R33 GTST S1 are all like "airbag? What airbag?!" -
rb25 Degreeing cams with hydraulic lifters?
MBS206 replied to Desean Strickland's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
No. The mark is with respect to the cam rotation. None of those things have altered it. When stationary, the cam position stays in sync with the crank position. It doesn't matter if you moved the head 4 feet up. Hence, that mark needs to stay exactly where it is. -
Sell it and buy something newer? 😛
-
Another Crank No start thread - r34 rb20 neo + t
MBS206 replied to Sxnjeet's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
My bet is there's a fuse somewhere you blew that feeds power to the ECU. Or you've bumped something out behind the dash board. -
RB20 in need of modest love injection
MBS206 replied to QB6SAGR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Personally, I'd stick to appropriate sized injectors if you're not going to go shooting for needing all of that fuel flow. Even though ECUs have improved, having that less size still allows for slightly easier fine tuning. Basically, an injector twice the size you need, means giving a small change, is still going to be about twice as big as you might want. Being able to make smaller and finer adjustments can make dial ins easier. ECUs still have a limited resolution they can work with. Why give away 40% of that resolution to something you don't need? -
For posting pictures, if you do upload them as a file, they're easy to place where you want. First use the file upload from "Add files" Then in the text editing area place the cursor where you want the picture, make sure if you were to start typing, that text would appear where you want the picture, then scroll down to the add files area, and beside the picture you just uploaded click "Insert" and it will place it exactly where you were ready to type text.
-
Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure? Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
-
There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
-
I'm glad to hear you've joined the SKI club. Spend the Kids Inheritance.