MBS206

The main stuff from.Vibrant I see is more their intercooler piping, and everyone raving about their clamps, but when I looked it was about $150 per clamp... I was a bit I also thought the public price SP had up was high. As Mark said, a normal exhaust shop can fab them. It was many years ago that I had a full exhaust built, but for a full turbo back exhaust, and 2 custom built mufflers, plus a high flow cat, was about $1,100, and that was fully installed, drive in, drive out. I believe SP was about $900 for 2 mufflers, just supplied These days, I just buy the material and built it myself, because I need to stretch my $$$

I'm not sure if I'm just out of touch these days, but is Vibrants stuff not ridiculously expensive? I understand it's quality, but even for high quality it seems insanely expensive.

I'd be just as worried about the part where they say "we won't be responsible for colour matching, if the undamaged area has deteriorated from new". So basically, they just need to paint it in the factory spec colour, but give no f**ks for the age of the vehicle etc, and are happy to make it look like dogs balls.

More sad that it's month inbetween drives of his Skyline.

At work we've got a smaller version of the Projecta that Duncan posted above. At home, I have an ALDI trickle charger. Ive had it for about 8 years now. Only issue with it, it's a smart charger, so if the battery is dead, it won't bring it up, but I have a variable power supply that I limit current on, and set to a max of 14.4v. once it starts charging up, I put the aldi unit on and remove the variable PSU. ALDI one will do 12v, or 6v, then has mode for "car" "motorbike", and "snow". With car or motorbike more for its internal workings, and snow is the trickle mode. I have a battery in the garage that lives on this charger for about the last 18 months now on Snow mode. When I need to charge my other batteries (eg, ones that have died in a car), I get them started and then run it on car mode. Voltage is always sitting really nice, and hasn't killed a battery yet. that charger isn't good for things like Lithium batteries etc, I'd only use it on Lead Acid.

Having a read online, need to get the emission standard from their logbook, or the manufacturer as to what Euro it meets. If it doesn't meet it, you can modify the car to meet it, and then go through a big government process. As vehicle is pre Euro4, it won't be meeting it. I'd honestly doubt anything but the NEO motors have a chance of getting near the EURO4. NEO is specifically for getting better emissions.

Can't remember, sorry! It was while I was going around for random stuff last week with COVID

There's a Vic drifter who has a vid on YouTube where he does some head drains like your setup, and gets them in some good spots and it also stops the potential for oil pooling in the hose and reducing its effective diameter.

If you're driving something like an R32 through to R34, no chance of meeting Euro4. Euro4 came out in 2006, and car manufacturers back then were complaining how hard it would be to meet those regulations. Not a chance a vehicle 10 years earlier is going to be compliant.

I don't even go that hard core. I just say "how do you expect me to stay, when you increase my premium, and reduce the value of the car?" Then play a game of shut the f**k up. Most of the time it's a computer that did the adjustment, and the people will happily change it around for you.

He's already pulled the motor, and I believe sent it to the builder. TurboTaipan has a cool build thread in the projects area you can follow on for more updates too

I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done. But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.

Do you have a mid muffler?

Don't just call around, also call Shannon's. You've just reminded me, I need to call them again and push my premium down and my agreed values up...

Plenty of modern cars run things like Varex exhausts, from HSV through to Ferrari. Their systems are usually setup so once you meet a certain condition (RPM seems to be the main kickover on the HSV from my experience) they automatically open. You could do the same some aftermarket ECU, IE, above X throttle, and X rpm, open the valve, otherwise shut, and then also have a switch to override it when you want a nice exhaust. On my boss' HSV Senator, I pulled the fuse on the variable exhaust, and that fails it into the permanently open position. He loved it, and was the exact amount of idle noise etc that he wanted from it, but didn't want to buy an exhaust for it incase it was droney or shit sounding.

I've not had issues with this for Shannons. It has been many years since I had a Skyline insured, but had things like the XR6T, and Subaru Liberty GTB. The most restrictive I've had is that it couldn't be parked on the road.

You don't need to lean as far to pour the oil in, or change the spark plugs either 😛

Duncan often changes engines before changing the oil...

Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start? There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.

My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them. Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger. I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.

I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup? 😛

I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump. Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system). This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it. Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it). If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed

It seems you'd like your Skyline to go to a great home, that can keep it as a beautiful museum piece. I feel I can provide the perfect place for it, however, I'm not sure I can justify so much money for a Skyline that has only been crashed 3 times. Due to this and market prices, would you be against me buying it for $100.00, with $60 to be paid upfront, and the remaining $40 to be paid annually in equal payments?

Well, turns out not a lot happened from back then to now, between life again, and working on 3 separate other cars (only one of which was mine, and will now be departing the household soon). So I decided with the whole "don't go outside, it's a cyclone!" Turning in to being not a whole lot, I ventured down to the garage, found a couple of water leaks in the shed (the main one I've already fixed), and then ended up "stuck" as it started pouring rain, and I didn't want to walk back inside in the pouring rain. This meant I ended up taking a look at the Skyline, and trying to work out what past Matt had been upto. I retraced a few things out from scratch, added the rest of the power feeds in that I needed for the indicators, and headlights. Double checked I'd wired a few things up correctly (and worked out how I wired a few things to begin with), updated my sparse notes. Added one of the ground points. Oh, and got really really dusty, as the car is quite dirty. Wrote up quickly what should be left for me to do with the wiring too. Adding the below photos more for my records than anything else. I need to make myself a proper book for the car that details everything, and how I've done it, but for now, this is my records... The third image is my most important one for me, and I need to draw it out into a proper schematic eventually. The last photo is my re-written list, I'd have put it on the white board, except I had to take the white board down to fix one of the water leaks.

Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.