MBS206

@Duncan can you put the Link in, and measure all the power input voltages with a multimeter. Specifically looking for one that is low. Then put the other ECU in that it runs on, and measure those voltages again with a multimeter? If all of your voltages read normal on both ECUs, but the link is still reading low internally, your issue IS the LINK. If the voltages drop low on the multimeter while the Link is plugged in, but not other ECU, then the issue COULD be wiring in the car, or it COULD be the ECU. To rule out wiring, work out how with an ECU removed, you can trigger all the necessary relays, and then measure resistance from the pin that is reading low at the ECU, to the batteries positive power. I have a sneaking suspicion your issue is the link, it's not reading the voltage properly, possibly a dry joint, or a Cap dieing, and because voltage is low, it's likely attempting to compensate on fuelling and the engine won't run.

I don't think that kit is what you want, as they list it as heater hoses, not vacuum / oil hoses. The lines you're talking about are breather hoses.

Just to double confirm Duncan, the ~9V on that wire, you see that with a multimeter too, but when PFC is plugged in, your multi reads 12V? I'm guessing a component in the link on its way, likely a capacitor. I'm keen on Link response, and then internal photos if they say jump. With our powers combined, I'm sure we can get all the electrical smoke out

I think how I see it, something like MX5 more fun for things like a mountain cruise, or through roundabouts. But daily driving around, commodore, just to listen to the V8 rumble, big auto, so lazy drive. Also good if you like to be quicker than the P Platers at the traffic lights without trying Turbo cars and smaller engines not as easy, as you need to ring them out harder especially off the mark if you want to beat them. But MX5 would be more fun on a winding road like Mac Pass/Natio park, as you can push the motor harder and row through the gears without hitting a billion miles an hour.

Sounds like the reg is fubar, or, lines are backwards. You should be able to keep reg and fuel rail in the system and get fuel to return to the tank.

So on the power input to the link, from the ECCS relay, it is showing only 9.5v? But on the PFC, it gets full voltage (measured by the same multimeter? If that is the case, it sounds like you've got a bit of an internal short starting to occur (hasn't gone to full short yeah) and likely you're seeing a decent current draw too with the Link on. Is the Link under warranty? I'll be intrigued to hear what they say, especially if not under warranty. Then I want to see inside it if Link don't have an economical/efficient approach to repair it for you!

You guys change your oil? And spend more than what the home brand oil is worth?! 😮 Actually, that reminds me, mower needs an oil change, the oil has gotten a bit thick and gunky. I don't think it's happy pushing an extra 1000rpm constantly...

Commodore needs a manual box, and then to made into a convertible. Old man's comfortable MX5 then! Also, $50 and some pocket lint for the Commodore?

You can give the commodore to me.

You forgot the timing too...

Or add timing until it sounds a bit rattly, then pull timing... Really quickly!

Don't compression test. If it's running fine, don't look for problems, just enjoy!

I am going to vote, please keep the motorsport builds separate, from the general builds. I look at each, at different times, for different wants. And it makes a lot of sense to keep it separate, and also helps you to understand who's building a wild street car, vs who's building a great race car, without needing to memorise every single persons build thread and objectives.

Why does everyone film these days in psychopath mode and lose 60% of the screen? And I never realised until now you're in Bris! For some reason I thought Canada, I must have been mixxing this up with another build thread. I'll need to keep my eyes peeled to play spotto now!

If I'm paying, it'd be the most unreliable, janked together setup you've seen. I can do drive in, drive out. But don't expect it till 2038 at the earliest... And thats being optimistic...

Rob, Updates on build mate? Do I need to drive round your way and prod you with a stick, or is work just too busy at the moment? I'm happy to write you a resignation letter if work is getting in the way of building your own car

LS1 swap it. Keep it NA...

Many possibilities, like cam gears coming free of the cam shaft and spinning.

Is the laptop the problem, or something youre plugging into it killing it?

I'm definitely not in my right mind, so take this with a grain of salt... All of what you've shown won't/can't cause low/no oil pressure. I'd find what happened to the oil pressure, check the bearings, fix the oil pressure and send it after a re-tune. Then again, I don't like spending stupid money on cars these days if I can avoid it. So I'm definitely in the mad category.

Put the car in second gear instead of 1st and try again. Lots of cars, especially cable drive when in first are very touchy/jerky when you first touch the throttle. The jerkyness can also cause your foot to move ever so slightly, and on a cable setup, can be varying the throttle very minutely, but that's a large change in air flow for low speed. 2nd gear takes a lot of the 'jerk' away. If second gear doesn't make it drive able, you need to sort of the "ghost cam" tune around idle. First test would be removed it entirely and see if that eliminates the issue.

Are you in 1st gear with this "lungeyness" occuring? Just idling around the car park and then tap the throttle?

Don't pull this gym bag BS Mark, we know it was your clippers and hair dryer taking up the boot.

No no, PowerFC comes with its own HeadUnit! Haltech you need to use someone else's Headunit! Plus, the PowerFC hand controller, you can play Tetris on it too!

Haltech are releasing Haltech Connect. Their Nexxus ECUs have WiFi, and the Headunit can connect over WiFi direct to the ECU. Also allows full access to every parameter in the ECU, so you can tune from the Headunit.