MBS206

I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...

He still had the suspension dialled in for him! I would have sworn the lowest weight he ever got to was 1300kg though Maybe Neil had been drilling a LOT of holes somewhere you haven't found yet... 😛 Or has he also drained all the gearbox and diff oil out too, between it, and a tank full of fuel there's about 65kg to 70kg to add back in I'd guess. 😛

To do the ones around the fuel tank, as in the external ones, you'll likely want a hoist, and to drop the tank. That's the way I'd do them again anyway.

Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not. Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges. Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.

I'd enquire on the wrecker starter too. Likely it could be bad. The check Duncan has mentioned too, is also a great point to look at. If it was a wrecker engine too, it could be bad, OR it could have an issue such as being hydro locked. Pull all of the glow plugs out, and see if it will turn over. (I'm assuming that LDV motor has glow plugs).

As Mark eludes to, it wouldn't matter even if you lived next door a lot of the time. Flat is flat...

I've been close enough to stupid heavy things falling when a hydraulic lift broke and dropped a Merc V8 and subframe a foot and a half...

For that price, why not consider a hoist, even if you don't take it up to full height? I can see benefits like being able to put it away etc, which is useful for people who only use it occasionally, but I feel for those with project cars / race cars, I'd stick to a full hoist, especially if the car has a permanent home where the hoist would fit.

The easiest way would to be ignore the oscilloscope, grab a multimeter, and make sure all the main connections are right. An oscilloscope will give 99.9% of even technicians so much grief, as they have no idea what things should even look like on an oscilloscope. Which is also even more likely for someone who's first ever major work on a car is this If the battery volts are dropping down so low, the LDV will reboot the ECU, when it does so, it will drop out the start circuit. If this is occuring, the battery voltage should also come back up. Give it a few tests, even simple ones like when you're attempting to crank it, measure voltage from the engine block, to the negative terminal. You might find you've got really bad connections somewhere. My guess is the "new" motor has something like a shit starter motor, at which point, you can swap the starter motor from the old motor, to the new motor. Before I did any of the above though, I'd 100% confirm the battery in the vehicle. Most jumper packs are absolutely useless, especially if a battery has a bad cell for example. Also the new modern "jump packs" if you don't know what you're doing with them, you won't even get them into high current stage. So go back to basics, check the battery, especially with a known good one as a replacement test. Check ALL the wiring, this includes where they're bolted onto the battery, and bolted onto the starter motor. Check all the earth straps are on. Measure your resistances across your earth straps. A good check here is to measure voltage across the earth straps while you're trying to crank it. If you're seeing voltage, you've got high resistance joints! Oh, and once you've done the above, check the battery over again.

For most rotisseries, as Duncan has mentioned, you really don't want a full car on it, you want a stripped shell. And imagine how many more weeks THAT is going to add to working on the car...

I've sent JaseR33 a private message in the hope he gets an email and contacts you

GTt too. But GTt being R34 they're a lot newer. From memory the R34 also runs a nylon rear wheel instead of ceramic. I might be wrong on it being nylon, but I'm certain they moved away from ceramic when they went from R33 to R34

Looks like all those cheap spares can be accounted to the blue guy on row 3 on the inside... Looked like he gave the one in front a helping hand sideways, and someone did it to the pink MX5 too

I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...

The above video is working normally. That is, that's how the right hand indicator should cancel when rotating the wheel left.

Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it. However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations... Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.

If that's the wiring from the factory, I'd be inspecting the loom everywhere. Any signs of that anywhere else, and seriously, I'd get rid of the car ASAP before the electrical gremlins make it worthless, or it goes up in flames on its own. That is scary how that insulation is failing!

The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass. If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on. Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside. The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in. For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.

It just depends if you're like me with a high level of OCD for doing something like hardlines, and highly critical of the little things, and then bugger all patience to get it how my brain pictures it

You know the worst thing about acquiring more space for me? I tend to acquire more things to fill the space...

Glad it eventually came out Duncan! I believe that might be 040. 044 is the inline pump, so has screw fittings in and out. 040 is more just drop it in fuel and the bottom is "open" (mesh) from my memory

My first thought is run hardlines, but running a soft pipe is easier and quicker, though normally more exxy...

It sounds like the perfect time to do easier tasks like, work out how to pull the headlights fully apart, clean them inside and out, and make them meticulous... Or lose all the clips, f**k up polishing the lenses, and get frustrated with that job while you can't do bigger more fun ones and wind up with no usable headlights... I mean... What?! 😛

And 90% of the time those people turn out to be wrong anyway. But they still treat themselves as a victim...

Wives never seem to find things funny. Especially when they're trying to sleep, and you've found the new funniest thing ever. I've never seen someone be able to get try and be cranky with me, while they're holding back fits of laughter... 😛 Also, I tell mine it's payback anyway. She has BiPolar. So the household can get quite emotionally wild at times 😛