MBS206

I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?

Wait, they're claiming UNOPENED fluid has a shelf life of only 18 months?

This comparison table needs more MaxSpeedingRods turbos added for those off us who like the LOLs 😛

It's about the same time for me from Bunnings, or the Fasteners. My big push away from takeaway food, and gluten in general keeps me away from the Bunnings Snags too! Weather up here, I've been out for two walks today in the beautiful sunshine. Had a few little drizzles, and some wind, that honestly, a tin of beans and I could compete on how harsh she blows Thankfully, being this bit inland, we're not getting anything much really. Will probably pick up a bit more when/if Cyclone Alfie decides to come ashore. A few areas in the GC though, and south into NSW are really getting smashed though! Right now, I'm just annoyed Alfie hasn't hit, as I'm not allowed to crack into the BBQ foods like the bacon and eggs until the Cyclone hits "In case we lose power"...

Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor. I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)

My thing I'd be doing, is pulling it out, and just getting the tune cleaned up for now. Before that even happens, checking over everything, like vac hoses, fuel hoses, etc. No point dropping thousands on sensors if the moment you start it back up all the oil leaks out, or it has massive vacuum leaks etc. But really, to know what to do, depends on what your use case is. Hard core track car? Throw most sensors available at it. Street car, I'd probably just run oil pressure, oil temps, water pressure, water temp, probably fuel pressure too. I don't know exactly what the Link can handle and do with those though. And if it's mainly just to cruise the streets, rather than mountain runs, you can probably skip most of the above if you've already got them in as gauges and warning lights. PS, inb4 "sell it and buy a modern sportscar"

No, I refuse to buy their cheap ass crap! I do need to order a bunch of different nuts/bolts to refill my nut/bolt wall though. Maybe you could go for a walk through Bunnings for me? (Or send me some stuff from your work? ) I really struggle to work out how the US standardised to Metric in what the 70s or 80s, and yet, half a century later, there's been little done to actually bring it into fruition. It truly baffles me On the whole Fastenal thing, I went reading their site (My god they sell a lot of varied stuff!), and it seems like it really depends what store you're near if you can walk in and just grab a few small things, or if that branch is primarily distribution with only a small window of "counter time" available (if at all). That definitely makes it harder, as move locations and it drastically changes your ability for success For things like your M6x1.0, if you want to work on your own Skyline, and you also have a "home workshop" I'd recommend setting yourself up a small Nut/Bolt wall/section. It doesn't even need to be big at all. Most things depending on the diameter, will be a specific pitch, like the M6x1, M5x0.7 etc. Bigger bolts is mostly 1.5, except for a small number of things and that will come down to torque. From memory bolts for the brake calipers (and other things that need a lot of torque) will end up being a 1.25mm pitch. Save up a few dollars, and order a range of nuts/bolts. If you want to minimise cost a little, buy something like M6 x 40, and M6x70mm (1mm pitch) in both. In addition, buy yourself an M6x1mm thread chaser. That way you have long bolts that you can cut down to size, and then chase the threads out. Funnily enough, I find what I'd pay here for ordering 5 bolts, I can pay about 50% more and you'll get 100 of them. If that doesn't quite work out due to space / ability to buy plenty up front, then each time you need some bolts, order 100 of what ever you're getting. Put them in clearly marked containers. Over a few years, you'll acquire plenty of different sizes, and will end up ordering less and less. And the cost for 100 bolts won't be much more than you paid for your 5 you needed to order anyway Just takes a little planning ahead, by investigating what nuts/bolts you'll need, and ordering them before doing the job. Edit: If it's also primarily for working on just the Skyline, for some reason my brain is screaming that at some point, either Nissan, Nismo, (Or possibly a third party) was selling a "kit" of every nut and bolt in a Skyline, purely for people restoring/rebuilding. It'd likely be quite expensive, but would give you every/any nut/bolt you need for stock/factory things. I'm not sure if it's still available, or even if it actually fully came to market, it's just something niggling in the back of my brain that you could look into further if that sort of thing interested you? (It might have been for the R32 GTR or something specifically too, and not just any Skyline)

Just cage it, call it a race car, and then fall in love with the chirp chirps through pit area! Also, this is coming from someone with a completely locked diff...

Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom? Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE. The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf

And what you pay for a pack of 8 bolts and nuts at Bunnings, will land me 200 of the same nuts and bolts from a fastener shop. M12 * 1.25 IS a standard. It's not like ordering M12x1.25 and hoping the thread pitch is right. Unlike ordering an ounce, will get you 4 different amounts depending on which ounce someone takes it to be. Your issue is a supply issue.

But it's much better to use a freedom unit that has four different possible meanings...

With that engine being a one rotor, would that make this into an RX4?

Now Mark, I know you've already done an engine swap, but how about doing an engine swap that reduces a lot of weight, and effectively makes it a mid mount engine setup? https://youtu.be/A99702U07QI?feature=shared

Im also amazed how well Attessa holds up to all of the abuse. Especially with the burnouts and crap you guys used to do at Texi!

True! I think I'm closer to 06 with the cameras in phones being out there more. And the nearly impossible to use internet web browsers. Or paying for ring tones... Man I hated when we couldn't just compose a ringtone on a Nokia anymore! These days I just hate it if my phone rings, beeps, boops, or vibrates!

They did have cameras. Except the top of the line ones only took photos with 8 pixels. I still remember how we all used to run around with a phone, a camera, AND a window mounted GPS. 3 separate devices! That was the era I bought my Skyline too. Before the iPhone 1 was even made! Oh, and the Dolphin era Pioneer head units. Ha ha ha. 19 year old Matt with an R33 Skyline, doing really dumb shit. Heck, I think I'd already done my first RB25/30DET swap with big high mount before the iPhone 3 (second iPhone) was released! I definitely had my Twin Turbo Supra too before the iPhone 3.

Adding in labour, now you've likely tripled it knowing how places like to charge.

A Pillar forward? The part above I was just looking at was the reo bar, I'd replace it, UNLESS the panel beater is GOOD. From your early photos, it did look like the chassis might be tweaked, or at the very least there was tweaks in radiator support. I'd personally do a new / second hand unmolested reo bar, and drill it, only so I know underneath the pretty painted front bar, there's not a mess of other metal that's been hit and smacked.

Bahahaha, bloody hell Greg. You've got bent and broken things, but instead, you're replacing perfectly good items. This story keeps getting more gregged! Also, I'd 100% replace that reo if I were in your shoes, unless you panel beater is REALLY good. Even if you put another GTT one on there. Just because you've done so much nice body work lately, I'd say repair the body work fully If it were more drift car spec, I'd be all "Hit it with a hammer and send it!"

Yep, agree with all of the above added on too. I just love the age old "what boost were you running?" Question without getting any other surrounding data. IE, may have ran 20psi, and lived for 12 years, but it was an 80 year old granma driving it to Bingo once a week and never took it over 2500rpm.

The "ideal/formula" that used to be touted was death of the turbo is going to be caused by a combination of 3 things. Heat Speed of turbo (boost level you're pushing) Time Basically, you can get away with high heat and high boost for short periods. But start doing long hard pulls, or circuit driving etc, and now you've increased time as well which will shred things. From memory when Adrian was drag racing he was running 17psi, on a stock turbo, and running insane speeds. But he also had other additives helping in the setup too. Some people have success at 14psi for a while, while others due to pushing the cars hard for long periods opt down to lower temps. But also, generate a lot of heat (let's say bad tune), for a long time, and you'll be okay, until you try to spin that little guy up slightly. It's the one advantage of dumping a lot of fuel in, you'll be reducing EGT a bit and helping with the heat portion of the above 3 areas. And these days, stock turbos are that old that there's the possibility of just outright failures due to material age. I'm not shocked that even when used in factory spec that a stock turbo fails when 30 years old. It's a worn out "precision" "balanced" performance item, that's likely no longer precise, or well balanced

In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛

Some of the stuff the PDR guys in the states pull is amazing too. Instead of drilling a hole. They crank some insane tension into it. I actually DIY built a pulling bar myself that I used to pull the Subarus front end out with. About an hour's work, a bit of 30mm *3mm shs, and a piece of 5mm thick plate. Worked great! But I vote replace it with a GTR rad support. And not going to lie, I'll laugh if a GTR rad support doesn't fit a GTt...

That's a write off for sure... Part out? 😛 I kid. It looks like the rad support has a minor minor bend in it too where the rep support sits near. Could just be the photos (and me not wearing my glasses right now). Worst case is you can buy a new radiator support, have it swapped over, and leave the car in paint jail for 12 to 18 months while you build the motor to handle twin turbos or a Harrop SC...

LandCruiser used to get a fluid flush every 12 to 18 months. Only because it was about that often the electric motor on the master for brake assist kept dieing and needing to come off.