MBS206

I didn't actually know this! I've seen photos of the H1, mainly outside shots, and they just look "different". I guess there'd be a few little changes like nicer rims, and probably the fact they have nicer looking paint with some depth and shine, which will make any vehicles body look different to the very flat colours of the defence force. I've watched the guys on GHPC convert their Humvee to LS1, and they've done some really nice front shock upgrade. I'm waiting for the next video on it with the rear end done. I can't remember if they've already done it, or I dreamed it, but I believe they're also supercharging theres. They will be in the future doing proper long travel suspension too. If you ditch out your big V8, as rubbish as it must be, send it to my place. I'll let the unreliable V8 motor and box be here. I just like V8s... So I'll find something to do with it... Even if that something is just taking up valuable space in the yard. I might have something Skyline I can send back in payment... Or even Ford Barra motors (From memory you're in Canada yeah?) So you can then play with the legendary Aussie 4L version of an RB... Except they don't have that distinctive random miss at idle like the RB25 does.

Or you mean the age old problem of early 2000's manual boost tees, where they never let the pressure out of the line between the boost tee, and the waste gate, so after your first trip on boost, the damn wastegate liked to stay open and be laggy on gear change?

Being behind an RB25DET, we know he won't have the small box for long at all...

Consider a 35 too...

Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.

Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha

That would totally depends on how the circuit in the GM ECU is actually made as to if it could make an impact. The big thing to check for would be to use a multimeter to measure the voltage of the sensor with it on the gauge only, and then what it is when the sensor is plugged into the GM ECU too. If it varies at all, then I would disconnect it. But yeah, totally depends on how the circuit is taking that voltage measurement and the componentry selected.

Unplug the thermofans and let it idle... Watch the temp gauge as it all goes up... Record the values. And done.

Put in excel, graph it, fit a trend line, display formula. I totally am not reinstalling MATLAB. Hopefully you have it installed if you want to use it 😛 But if HPTuners can only fit a linear equation, no need for any of the above with some simple mafs...

Extend the sensor out of the car, put it in a pot of oil, heat oil up. You'll get to 80-120 then 😛

Yeah, it looks like it's being ran as a constant current setup is my guess. Get some more data points, reading the degrees C on the gauge, and what the voltage is you're seeing out of it. The sensor itself is not linear, even in smaller ranges of like 20 - 60 it's non linear. But if we can get some good plots, particularly at those 5volt steps, it will be very easy to work out, and then I can give you a logarithmic formula if its you need an actual formula. Also, very likely ChatGPT will lead you astray with some of this stuff, as it totally depends on how the circuit is built.

Can you measure resistance between the pin you're wiring to, and the sensor ground?

The circuit if not a resistor divider is using an opamp to deliver a specific current normally. By maintaining the current as resistance changes, the voltage does too. Add to that, thermistors are normally non linear too,which can make creating a function impossible. Most uses of a thermistor people will utilise a lookup table to get the corresponding temperature.

Buy a new daily... Do swap on old daily. Sell new daily.

TT LS3? Or NZ V12 TT...

Sounds like a Barra swap is needed...

H1 is not the Humvee, but is the most road based version. Lachlan (HankScorpio) on here has a proper Humvee. He imported it a few years back.

It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.

Buy her some ear plugs. Or, wear earplugs so you also can't hear Jackie whining...

I'm glad someone else already raised the sunken cost fallacy. No point spending more money on shit that won't work properly, when you can scrap those parts and start again, and likely not cost much more than making the shit you've got work.

Possibly an old turbo timer.

Sometimes you need to pay good money to get quality work done.

The switch part, is the switch you use to turn the lights on and off in the car. The test I had was to determine where in the line it is, but on a quick rethink, if it's only blowing when you turn the switch on, then it's the wire from the switch, to the headlight that's got the short. Now it's a case as GTS said, of physically finding the fault. The fault could be: metal has broken through the loom. Known as a rub through. Places to check: anywhere the wiring has been messed with in the car, particularly firewall grommets if extra cables have been passed through. Check the inner guard linings, you might be rubbing through with a wheel, particularly if the vehicle has been lowered. Also check for anywhere there could be high heat, especially if heat shields are missing. Double check any wiring at the head unit too if someone has messed with the headlight wiring to pick up a feed to dim the headlight at night. You could also just have really old cabling that is literally falling apart, though, this is more likely in Euros than in an old Nissan in my experience.

Read my post above. It tells you what to do.

I'm interested if anyone agrees with what you've said, and can give a good reason. Temperature of powder coating should be below any temperature you'd use to alter the wheel structure. Powder coat typically 200 to 250. Annealing if that's what people are claiming would be occuring, starts at 300, and depending on the alloy, can need even up at 400+. That's the only part I can think of that could cause an issue that people are believing it's from the rim losing hardness and becoming too soft.