MBS206

TT LS3? Or NZ V12 TT...

Sounds like a Barra swap is needed...

H1 is not the Humvee, but is the most road based version. Lachlan (HankScorpio) on here has a proper Humvee. He imported it a few years back.

It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.

Buy her some ear plugs. Or, wear earplugs so you also can't hear Jackie whining...

I'm glad someone else already raised the sunken cost fallacy. No point spending more money on shit that won't work properly, when you can scrap those parts and start again, and likely not cost much more than making the shit you've got work.

Possibly an old turbo timer.

Sometimes you need to pay good money to get quality work done.

The switch part, is the switch you use to turn the lights on and off in the car. The test I had was to determine where in the line it is, but on a quick rethink, if it's only blowing when you turn the switch on, then it's the wire from the switch, to the headlight that's got the short. Now it's a case as GTS said, of physically finding the fault. The fault could be: metal has broken through the loom. Known as a rub through. Places to check: anywhere the wiring has been messed with in the car, particularly firewall grommets if extra cables have been passed through. Check the inner guard linings, you might be rubbing through with a wheel, particularly if the vehicle has been lowered. Also check for anywhere there could be high heat, especially if heat shields are missing. Double check any wiring at the head unit too if someone has messed with the headlight wiring to pick up a feed to dim the headlight at night. You could also just have really old cabling that is literally falling apart, though, this is more likely in Euros than in an old Nissan in my experience.

Read my post above. It tells you what to do.

I'm interested if anyone agrees with what you've said, and can give a good reason. Temperature of powder coating should be below any temperature you'd use to alter the wheel structure. Powder coat typically 200 to 250. Annealing if that's what people are claiming would be occuring, starts at 300, and depending on the alloy, can need even up at 400+. That's the only part I can think of that could cause an issue that people are believing it's from the rim losing hardness and becoming too soft.

Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire. Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches. Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch. If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight. Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow? If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.

If you want cranky idle, go back to the old school firing order, out a carb on it, and a massive cam. No matter how much you try to tune in a brake, it is never quite like an old, cranky as hell, carb V8. Actually, you can build a hemi V8, and get a super cranky cam for it, and as much as you try and smooth the idle out, it will still sound cranky as f**k!

Not going to lie. When I just saw this, for a moment I thought it was an interior shot of a VN Commodore...

Have you confirmed the 2 pin coolant temp sensor on the motor is working properly? I've had a very similar issue when I forgot to plug mine back in many years ago.

Whats a couple of hundred dollars to protect a multi thousand dollar engine that is going to have a Gregged water pump on it soon...

I agree, and yet my "HRM " hat is also on, as his wideband is in disagreement with the narrowband where they used to play closer attention to each other.

I was chatting with an ex SAU person who is involved in chooning euros now. He was saying the factory cars like Audi VW etc have something like 2000 tables that the ECU uses for getting everything "just right". Compare that back to any aftermarket ECU, and you'd be hard pressed to surpass 50 lookup tables. Even the Ford Barra engine has a few hundred lookup tables to run it (and they're still working some tables out too!)

Grab a temp probe, and probe each exhaust inlet runner with it sitting idling. Each one should be pretty darn close to the same temp. If you've got some reading higher or lower than the others, it's likely either air flow isn't equal, or your injectors aren't equal to each other. The other things to check, is from the wiring changes that were made, were any earth's or grounds moved/changed. Lastly, for the strut brace issue. It's not perfect, but can you get away with slipping a washer or two under the strut brace to raise it, and it still clean the bonnet? If you can, work out the height you need, that the motor can't torque up into, and get a spacer made for each side.

Do you want to come do the fuel pump in my Skyline Duncan? It'll be a pleasure for you, as the middle of winter is still about 19c in the middle of the day, and the fuel tank is bone dry... 😛

Amazing work Duncan! It is never easy to pick up someone elses project and work all the parts out that are missing

I thought you didn't let mechanics, especially those with no idea, work on your car any more? Wouldn't that mean it won't be an issue in your case?

Magnetic drain plugs are fine. Just don't buy cheap shit ones. They're actually better than letting magnetic shit float around in your oil. The magnet also didn't just "fall out". OP was drilling the plug out which allowed it to come out. Even some OEM plugs are magnetic.

Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!