MBS206

Click bait is very much click bait...

@Duncan can you make this meet Targa Spec?...

GTR front looks good. If you don't like it, I'll swap you a rolling shell R33 for it. Give you a fresh base to start with.

@PranK I think a few links in the original post need fixing...

I've thought about DCT, and I think in pretty much every way sequential wins. You still have a pedal clutch, which means you can make it take off exactly how you want. There's no computer trying to work out if you're about to go up or down a gear. Without looking at the math, I reckon sequential will be a quicker shift. How they're setup, both can only go up or down 1 gear at a time. Did I mention no computer needed, so it can't ruin your day with some weird edge case with the sequential? I've not really ever found an auto box I've ever been 100% happy with even in normal daily duties, and the few DCT vehicles I've driven have the same issue. I would be intrigued to take a crack at reprogramming a DCT and seeing how well I can truly ruin my day for myself...

I was thinking it's helpful in clearing any doubt that everyone needs a bigger turbo and a new aftermarket ECU. Or an engine swap and sequential box...

Came here to say, put all the wiring from the new motor and gearbox in that you can, then throw the stock ECUs in the bin, and get an aftermarket ECU. Should be pretty easy if you can use a multimeter and read a wiring diagram to then use a PNP aftermarket ECU to suit the motors wiring loom, and make the minimal changes you will to get it to work in with the body loom (If any). This will mean you can very easily circumvent/bypass the Park/Neutral start disable switch, and get everything running really easy!

If the roof is dual skinned the whole way, IE, there's a "top" metal piece, and a "bottom" metal piece, to slow it down as much as you practically can, you should be able to get an attachment for a spray can/your spray gun, where it is a long, thin flexible hose, and when you're "spraying" it is spraying it in every direction possible. The I'd get that, and feed it through the roof as much and as far as you can. It's basically like fish oiling the car, but you're soaking it in rust converter. Then do the fix like Murray has described having cleaned up the existing metal as much as you humanly can. I'd also throw as much rust converter on that exposed metal before putting the fibreglass/metal filler over everything. As for welding a replacement in. I've owned my own MIG welder for about 10 years. I've also worked in an industry doing MIG welding for a job for about 3 months dead straight, and we were doing 11.5 hour work days 5 days a week, plus a Saturday 6 hour day. (I then moved over to running the massive CNC plasma as I could understand the technology, and work with the main guy out there). I also f**k around with my welders a bit at home. So what I'm saying here is, I've probably got more hours on a MIG gun than you'll manage to get under your sleeve doing home sorts of jobs over the next 5 years. I also have an ACDC TIG that I got myself a year or two back. I've got a short amount of experience on the TIG only. My home MIG is also presently setup for doing thin sheet metal. Unless I didn't care about how that roof looked, and I just wanted a functional metal roof, and it being out of alignment, warped, and bowed, I would NOT attempt a roof replacement UNLESS I could do it as a whole panel like Murray described where the spot welds were. Welding has this REALLY annoying thing, where if you want something to be perfectly square, unless you can clamp that thing to damn perfection (Welding fixture table), it is NOT going to be square, so you start to learn, the type of metal you're working with, how thick it is etc, and weld in VERY specific ways, and by knowing how YOU are as a welder, so that as the welds cool, the metal work pulls itself into place. If you want to see some cool tricky shit done, Bennets Customs is an Aussie guy, and he mentions a guy a lot call "Kyle", who is from "Make It Kustom". Watch some of their welding videos, especially on sheet metal. You can use the welder to shrink the steel in, and you can also use the welder to stretch the panel out. When you have the skill level that I have, you can shrink the metal in and out... But never on purpose like those two guys do. You just manage to f**k it all up. Then I smack it around with a hammer till it sits lower than I will want it too, then I shove filler on top and then pray to deitys that I can sand it into some form of sane shape that doesn't look like a dog has taken a shit, after eating a tonne of pumice stone... I'm all for DIY, and for learning, and please, feel free to give it a go, but be aware, you need to live with the consequences of how time consuming it is to do, AND that it's going to look no where near as good as what you can make it look with just some filler now. Oh AND, even once you replace it, it's like to still rust away again eventually, because you'll have missed putting primer and paint on some part of the newly welded in sheet metal, or against part of the existing metal you couldn't get to... Oh, and to weld all that in, you will need to pull the window out, and strip at least the roof and A Pillars of interior trim and wiring. You'll then need things like the big fire proof/weld spatter proof mats to lay down, OR you'll end up needing to strip the ENTIRE interior to avoid sending it all up in a ball of flames. If you want to see how annoying sheet metal is to weld, head to bunnings, buy there 600x600 1.6mm mild steel (Not GAL!) sheet, and cut a few pieces, and try and weld them together. Then understand, 1.6mm sheet is nearly 50 to 100% THICKER than the cars sheet metal. The photos I posted before, I'm replacing with 1.2mm thick mild sheet, and it's very easy to blow through both the original steel (Especially if I hit an area that should have probably been cut out a bit more) or straight through the new sheet metal. And I'm doing the floor, which can be hidden easily, and doesn't matter how pretty I make it, as long as it's damn strong! I'm also doing it in a 4WD, that has seen many off road trails, and doesn't need to look that pretty ever

@PranK to help you feel better, this is what happens when you run two of the big ones and have a heavy foot...

Filler will set solid and water tight. If you need to, get in around the inside with silicon between the window and edge of the car, but only if that spot is leaking.

Welding thin sheet metal, is hard. Welding thin sheet metal and keeping it in the shape you want, is REALLY hard. Welding RUSTY thin sheet metal, and keeping it in the shape you want is nearly impossible. A dodgy fix... Is cut the rusty crap out... Expanding foam, and putty/bog to rebuild that corner... At least then you can reshape it to look half decent... Sprinkle some metal shavings into it too, then at least a magnet will stick to it. Probably more bodge than Murray's bodge idea...

Hot tip, stop picking at shit. Live in bliss instead From my recent experience in rust repairs, white it may seem to not go much further back, you'll still need to cut back a bit further. From what I can see there, the outer skin, and the inner is rusted too. From what I can see you've got the inner one which is all structural, and window likely affixes too. If tag Murray Calavera here, but my phone won't let me tag him, he'd probably be able to give the best advise. I do know, welding roof panels is a right pain in the bollocks! Very heavy to heat distort the roof and warp it all.

There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.

Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛 Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session

If it's just a vibration at higher speed, check wheel weights too.

I hear they also spin bearings like an RB26...

Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.

Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.

You'll likely find, you never really get pressure to pop that valve. If you are getting "pressure" it's going out the unrestricted hole before it hangs around to build up and pop the rubber flap. IE, it's headed for the intake pipe. In reality, if we did it right, your "vent" would actually go to a PCB valve at the inlet, and you'd still have the two the intake pipe too. When in vacuum, motor sucks it in, when on boost, PCB shut, and you will be getting enough air flow past (if they've put the catchcan pipe on the inlet in a good spot, at the right angle) which will create suction. Current setup in reality, you're just forcing it to the intake pipe.

Mark, please add to your shopping list a cask of wine. For when the Hills Hoist is installed...

You've got yourself a good old game of have fun. That shit is annoying as hell to remove. Thankfully for you, yours is on metal, most of the stuff I take it off is plastic, so typically hear guns are out. I normally end up continually dragging my thumb with pressure over it to get it to peel up. Eucalyptus oil then works well for getting residue and last remnants off. Edit: plastic scraper might be worth while too. One that'll dig into the foam tape, but not scratch the paint.

House warming party is when?

Seems to be common, also depends on what "full" is too. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352876-rb25de-fuel-consumption/

Just run it on methanol, and add a touch of WMI.

I will agree here. My R33 GTSt when stock was doing the 13 to 14 L/100km on my daily driving duties. Out on the open road, just cruising for hours straight, that fuel usage majorly dropped. When comparing fuel usage between people, you need to be VERY wary of driving styles, as well as how their normal routes look. As an example, we have two identical cars at work, on my daily trips, I'll regularly do 9.5L/100, however, one of our other drivers is regularly using 2L/100km more than I do. We could swap cars, and we'd each still get the same returns. A huge difference in our economy differences, is the differences in the type of drives we do, I end up more on the freeway, they get a lot more purely in suburb streets.