MBS206

House warming party is when?

Seems to be common, also depends on what "full" is too. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352876-rb25de-fuel-consumption/

Just run it on methanol, and add a touch of WMI.

I will agree here. My R33 GTSt when stock was doing the 13 to 14 L/100km on my daily driving duties. Out on the open road, just cruising for hours straight, that fuel usage majorly dropped. When comparing fuel usage between people, you need to be VERY wary of driving styles, as well as how their normal routes look. As an example, we have two identical cars at work, on my daily trips, I'll regularly do 9.5L/100, however, one of our other drivers is regularly using 2L/100km more than I do. We could swap cars, and we'd each still get the same returns. A huge difference in our economy differences, is the differences in the type of drives we do, I end up more on the freeway, they get a lot more purely in suburb streets.

Package SC on exhaust side. Remote mount turbo. Still a fair bit of room when you get creative on the inlet side of the motor too. Especially if you can get really creative with the welding, and effectively build it into the bottom of the inlet manifold. Would definitely take some design work, and some trial and error, to make sure flow works well still! Might be easier to just start with the Nissan March though... All the work is already done for you...

Put a timing light on it. It doesn't take much and timing is out. Out too far either way can lead to catastrophic failures.

My first thought after reading first post was, did you set the ignition timing properly, especially after removing the CAS.

4 GTRs, so what, maybe a house deposit in the Western Suburbs? 😮 😛 The white on the right is an R33 yeah? I'll help you roll it away forever too... PM me your address

Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up

I'm not 100% how the BMW racers do it, but I know from other brands like Merc, moving, and changing the coolers is one of the things. Like getting a transcooler out from infront of the radiator to out near a wheel arch. So some of the stuff you've got crammed in the middle front, spread it out and open up where you can in the bar to get more air in to the sides.

Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...

Just 2, and inline. One switch temp related other switch driver controlled. I'm nearly in my head back to Arduino land for it...

Complex conex, sand in X shape. And don't go hardcore. I find putting on filler to be the art here to help.

This sounds like me. And then why I leave shit that I had previously hobbled together broken. Lately I've changed strategies to "If I don't want to justify the money on decent stuff, I'm not going to justify hobbling it together". I'm still for DIY, but DIY it properly is more my thing. However, I am terrible on not setting up backups still... Which reminds me, I need to go backup some of my work VM machines... Oh, it's also why I've become a lover of building things into Docker Containers... Then I just need a machine that can run docker, and bam, that specific system is up and running, on the specific versions of everything I need for it to run (In the event a change in required software version breaks something else). Also, these days, my steep learning curves are spent with work related stuff, and on very varied projects, that my want to do other random projects like build a dashboard for my own car has dwindled away to "I just want the car running", which is my current PITA, as I'm getting the Landcruiser usable again, and it has just been non-stop the past 6 to 8 weeks of buying parts, and working on it. Oh, and tools that are meant to be fit for purpose... And they break, because 25 year old 4WD decides it's stronger... But by the time I have it ready to roll back out the drive way, nearly all the stuff in it will have been touched and serviced, so the damn thing better give me NO FREAKING ISSUES, for at least the next 50,000KMs! Just redone whole front of the motor, and resealed the up top stuff, replaced a bunch of things getting perished, new timing belt done, water pump, lower timing cover (Toyota diesel engine runs timing GEARS for the bottom half the motor, and a timing belt from halfway up to the top), new harmonic balancer, fix up the alternator, new thermostat, full swivel hub rebuild, new bearings and seals front and back, steering box rebuild, new battery, and today, it turns out a rear shock has let go, so four new shocks are about to go on order, and that will leave me with after the next run of work, to see if I need to order just a brake caliper re-seal, or if I'll need new pistons in them too. Oh, and I'll finish welding in the new floor sheet metal shortly too. Presently I just want it finished already... But once all the above is done, I still need to fully service diffs, gearbox, transfer, and motor. Then flush and bleed the clutch, and flush and bleed the brakes. But enough about our waffle, back to Duncan's heat problems... I think for Duncan he just gets a thermoswitch, and a manual switch to run some water misters. Thermo so it's only on above certain temps, and the manual switch so it can be turned off even if it is above certain temperatures. IE, switch on for "I'm now on track", then it doesn't need any "smart" computers that might try and do things wrong. And switch the thing off completely on the cool down lap, so when he stops in pits, there's not even a possibility of it dripping any water out to get him in trouble.

I do typically agree. These days even the screens most people use have more of a boot time than the main device. However, I've seen an interesting use of the RPi in vehicle, however it involves effectively building your own OS and MBR, as then it boots up exceptionally quickly, as you don't have everything needing to start up, and you can then also run it up as an RTOS, while still having more compute than an Android can give for things like display, and processing. A very huge task that would be though for Duncan, I'm not sure that's his skill set (or Arduino programming and wiring) ha ha. If end goal is definitely just water cooling, Arduino would be the simpler setup especially for a rookie. If he wants extra display stuff though, bashing some code in Python on an RPi may be the better result for both systems. Unfortunately the new device I'm building at work which runs a display, is too slow of a display for dashboard style purposes. More extreme low power, update only a couple of times a day type system

As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.

I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!

Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator... On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...

And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!

The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.

For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.

I believe he's also running a Haltech, at which point, should be able to drive low impedance injectors directly, using peak and hold settings.

I'm so glad base security is so high. I see they stopped some random codger from being able to just wander in off the street... 😛 PS, intake looks good!

That's Garrets way of saying it will manage boost itself. Give the wastegate no boost reference...

Hopefully more pedal gives more powah! Boo to paint jail, I want dyno comparisons!