MBS206

Some people love to enjoy the car, and that's the love. Others prefer being covered in dirt, oil, grease, sweat, and cuts and scratches instead of getting to drive the car. 😛

Low ball him cause it doesn't have a Samsonas in it...

Woah woah woah, don't forget the crowd that hate doing this shit, but love modified cars AND paying others to modify them. At which point, go buy Dose's R33

While doing the timing chain, fix the indicators too...

The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.

Yeah, but the country is turning to a bit of shite at the moment... (Majority of work is NZ'ers, and we have an office in NZ I deal with daily...)

If it came off a Skyline you could easily have sold it for $500 to someone wanting OEM parts to return their car to stock. Not sure if that market is in the Stageas or not.

It sounds "expensive" when compared to a mass produced tow bar that gets imported from China, but if that's all custom fabrication, then I think where you've ended up, it's a pretty good price! Considering some people will pay thousands of dollars for a few intercooler pipes to be welded up!

I think modifying any car, has to be because you like it, OR, you have an end goal to do XYZ. EG, build the fastest VW Golf in the country etc. So, if you're not setting out to do crazy things like break a specific record, or replicate some certain car, then as mentioned above, find the car that you really like, and modify it. Why? Well, modifying any car isn't a sound logical thing to do it. You do it for the fun of it. And if you want it to be fun, you need to start with something you really like. For some, that would be something like an R34 because they saw one in The Fast and The Furious franchise, for others it'll be something entirely different for some other reason. For me personally, why am I here, nearly 20 years later? I loved cars, all cars, and I wanted a car that drove a certain way, I was about to drop the coin on modifying a VR Commodore (Because I grew up in a family that taught me Commodores were the only cars worth owning). And just before I did that, a friend handed me the keys to an R33 GTST he'd just bought that was pretty much bone stock, it drove EXACTLY how I wanted a car to. Nice handling, the right amount of straight line zoom zooms, and hell, I loved the way it looked. I looked at the R32, it wasn't for me, I looked at the R34, it wasn't quite for me either, mainly because they were too expensive Price is also why I never bought a GTR back in the day. But I loved the curves of the R33 GTST, interior suited me over the R32, and wambam, thank you ma'am! I bought one. And in the essence of "return on investment" and "Sound financial planning", I've been making the dumbest mistakes ever since. Also, I know of a specific mortgage broker on these forums who has a very well modified R33 GTST making great power for the street and track... Then you could modify it with adding a Samsonas gearbox, Bosch motorsport ABS system, and go have some sick fun! Oh, and then you'll be able to help him get me my next mortgage, because that, like modifying a car, is probably a stupid financial decision for me at this moment the property I want...

Get something that can spray a bit, something like I'd use is a pressure pack for weed sprayer. I use one with degreaser. Spray it on (make sure you're fully covered up, you don't want that shit on you, especially face/eyes). Alternatively, a paint brush will help here as you can brush and work at the stuff quite aggressively. Be aware, citric acid can eat metal away and will cause it to rust more later. So make sure you neutralise it when done, and give the fresh metal some protection. That hanger, I'd honestly bin and get something like the Frenchy's drop in replacement. The tank, again, I'd look for something else to replace it with. Remember, as metal turns to rust, it means there's less metal there now. So some patches of your fuel tank are likely to be quite thin. Personally, Id focus on the front end of things, IE, how did the injectors get clogged if they're meant to be after a fuel filter. Then, once the front is sorted, I'd rig something up, even like a small surge tank, and make sure the engine is now running and all behaving. Then I'd replace the fuel tank and fuel hanger and pump. Also, I'd already be preparing to ditch your fuel filter...

That's looking great! Are you planning to do things like all hidden wiring with it, or you're planning to have it look more like we'd expect an RB in an engine bay to look like?

Your back garage, second shelf from the bottom?

After I win the lottos... So sounds like Samsonas, valve springs, a new bigger turbo, and maybe a super charger like all the school kids are dreaming of for twin charging, and you'll have the perfect daily driver. Oh, and maybe Bosch motorsport ABS for you too.

Hopefully that's not too confusing for the PoPo in Canada! Mr Plod even thinking you had Nitrous plumbed in on the street in Australia would lead to a 7-10 year stint in maximum security...

My embedded systems thoughts have me sitting with GTS on this. Variation between same phone hardware, should be small. However, the internal "intensity" or "volume" amount that say Google passes to the app, will be quite different, as the underlying hardware will be passing different levels for the same volume to the Google OS. Until the app creator has had each individual phone, and set benchmarks and calibrations for each, the amount of error can be quite huge. It can even be observed by using different phones, recording the same noise, and then playing it back, they end up soon ding different. A big reason for it, is even the different types of mics used in phones have different responses, and different frequency ranges. Then you need to get into the DSP, and the variations in those, their sample rates which then effect their frequency range, and then the quality of the DSP, and what type of hardware conversion they do to for the ADC within the DSP. Oh, and let's not forget at the low level phones are designed to cutout loud sounds. It's one of the reasons they suck in really loud environments (eg concerts). The louder you yell, the more you'll get cutout too Note DSP is Digital Signal Processor ADC is the analogue to data converter. I don't have any real data on what the variation would truly be, however, chat GPT says in general, their output is typically between +/-2dB to +/-5dB of what you're really measuring. So realistically, anything from 4 to 10dB variation is possible even with the same devices.

Even in cars with factory ECU, but tuned like yours, I can sense/pickup the delay still. It's small, but I find it's still there. And it changes the throttle feel too, especially on that first little bit of pickup from just touching the throttle, to getting it to crack open, at least on a mechanical pedal you can feel that tiny bit of slack you're about to take up, and then know immediately you're now in the point of throttle opening. I know many people don't notice or feel it, but 100% my brain can perceive that minor delay. And it's there, we'd actually be able to measure it too! It's still small, but just something I personally dislike. For driving on the road in the daily, unlike GTS, I'm happy to keep ABS, and traction control. Most stability control systems though can go EAD. I find they're only good if your immediate instinct isn't to try and catch the loss of stability, or worse, when it gets over zealous and you werent actually unstable, but now it kicking in has become dangerous!

Ha ha ha! You'll hate most cars, especially as a daily with all their beeping and booping and trying to constantly adjust everything because "we're smart, and we think we can work out what you want" except they don't understand, when previously you opened the throttle to 60% and it was fun and quick and gave plenty of power, just because you've driven sedately for the last 2 weeks, doesn't mean you want less performance, or you don't want the gearbox to go back a gear like it did last time you were at 60% throttle! Even the EV Kona I had did this sort of bullshit, and that's even if you last drove it hard in sports mode, and then pandered it in eco, then put it back in sports mode for the blat, it would be really soft in sport mode for the first few heavy hits of the throttle, and then it would really start to crisp the throttle up. It made it stupidly frustrating when daily driving it! Plus all the new electronic steering systems that are so delayed, and I haven't found a single production vehicle with electronic throttle I've been satisfied with, all because the ECU gets to choose how much throttle you're really getting and that means, there is going to be delays.

$40k and the indicators don't even work! I'm very much wanting something like DCT for a daily, but with a clutch pedal for takeoffs. As it's pretty darn hard for an ECU to know what I'm wanting in a take off with bugger all variation in throttle input. I'd also for the most part be wanting it purely flappy paddle. Or a fully programmable controller I could teach what I want later on. And for race car stuff, I can dream of a sequential. But I don't live in that financial world. 😛 DCT with NZ V12... Now are we putting something like an attessa drive line in too, or sticking RWD, or do you have some other sorts of thoughts on the driven wheel combo you want?

I honestly don't know any automatic that mid term is great on a race track. It seems a VERY common thing for the people running any auto, even the "good ones" to pull them out and rebuild/refresh them after a couple of rounds of racing, and even then, still gearbox issues will arise. With all the tiny passages and components in them, and the amount of stuff that can wear, and the way they build heat by nature, they just start to eat themselves as they go. I know one of the newer Mercs even runs a wet clutch instead of a torque converter to help this, and that's just for their street car. I'm not sure what the ZF8 uses though (TC or wet clutch)

I suspect with the way your tank is, your fuel filter will be clogging/clogged, or purely not working at all. I honestly wouldn't be surprised if someone hasn't put the fuel lines the wrong way too, and the filter is now in the return...

Look, let's be honest, 20 years ago, people in Australia were doing the same, except it wasn't Japanese brands, it was old Holden and Fords. They're a different breed of people buying these cars now, compared to how we view them.

How you pulled your fuel filter and split it open to take a look inside of it?

If the GTR keeps climbing to ridiculous out of control prices, it will drag the GTST up as time goes on. Those who cant drop silly $ on the GTR, will then start to drop big $ on the GTST.

So swap an appreciating asset, for a depreciating asset? Also, there's a build on here where someone is towing there bike to the track using an R33...

Is Samsonas really Nissan though... So really, you're just donating to the fun and happiness gods...