MBS206

What ECU are you running? This is probably the biggest question. If it's a PowerFC, I'd probably change the ECU and get something newer that will handle the injectors in a nicer way.

It's highly likely you will find something. Alternatively, a quick design and order online from chaina and you'll have a perfect solution

Not yet quite as bad as what we've seen a Jim Berry clutch do in an R32 GTR though when it decided to cut a chassis rail in half... Still very very gnarly and a great reason to avoid.

People said the same thing when the R35 going into development was announced.

21 is explicitly the coils detected as the issue. Is it guaranteed the actual issue? No. Just the ECU thinks it is. When you say rattling, describe it better, get an audio clip as best you can if possible.

Make sure you drop the GTT base tune back in, and set your injectors again, this will remove anything playing up with it you may have removed. Possibly lean there as it's normally a fast transient going THROUGH atmospheric pressure, and a turbo motor would then quickly go richer as boost builds. The only worry you MIGHT have is ignition timing, as the DE is higher compression than the DET from memory. But again, you're not in boost, so the DE motor will be a lot more forgiving at atmospheric. Get Murray, Kinkstahs, and Johnny's input on tuning haltechs, those guys have played with tuning enough in the past to be able to help now you're past the trouble shooting stage of the MAP issue

It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...

Thanks for the heads up, I have now started some watching of it. Duncan, it sounds like its slipping when shifting down the main straight. It flares before grabbing the next gear. Do you notice it when driving? Does it do it in any other gears?

Ha, I stopped running Iridiums and fancy spark plugs in RBs as they last just as long as coppers, and coppers are way way cheaper. RBs foul the plugs well before "they expire the plug"

Did you take the MX5 for a Blat around the Track at all?

If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down. While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.

Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen. Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.

Your IACV is set to idle too low. You need to adjust it via the screw Duncan mentioned. From memory it should be 650rpm with the valve electrics unplugged. What is it trying to idle at with the IACV plugged in?

Ahhh, I need the whole head unit. I definitely needed to roll back through and review your setup, ha ha! Neat setup they have going on. I just need a full double din head unit. But I want good and responsive. I might have to review what the likes of pioneer have out these days.

You want the service manual that Josh references so you know what to measure, and how it needs to be connected doing the measurement, AND the expected value.

I find half the tablets out there (as actual tablets) are slow as shit too 😛 But, I'm more and more interested here Duncan. I think I'll need to roll back a few pages, read what you've bought, and work from there on what I can shove in Sarah's Kluger. A HUGE must have for me though, is the ability to turn the freaking screen OFF!!!

Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds.

It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.

Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?

Was that with the cas upside or correct way up?

Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?

Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die? If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...

You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running? When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?

Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...

Does it also misfire equally when revving? Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms... Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.