MBS206

If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.

Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.

Sounds like a job for an over engineered solution... Two little levers in the cabin, each controlling their own brake caliper to a specific rear wheel... Now it's like you have a hydraulic drive vehicle when you get into the "tripod" situations.

If the FP immobiliser relay is in that APillar, open the APillar up and have a look. It might be as simple as, someone forgot to put a relay in the relay holder. Also when testing for the power/signal to activate the relay, are you doing this with just the key turned to on? If so, the ECU turns the FP off after about 3 seconds if the engine is not actually running (RPM > 0). Also, unplug the actual fuel pump, and measure if you're getting 12V to the plug of the fuel pump. Removing the pump from the circuit will remove any variation in worrying about back feed etc etc. I'd still be very much so pushing the installer to come back out. How did he get to leave the site without testing the car could physically start? That sounds like a standard thing to test if you install an immobiliser. "Immobiliser is immobilising, and immobiliser is now turned off, and car starts".

I would hope. But, we all know even the best companies have an issue sporadically.

Or the brand new throwout may be unhappy...

Either the installer needs to come back, you need an auto electrician, or you need to learn automotive electricals yourself. First step Id look at is where that big thing came out of, is there still things unplugged at that location? Maybe they just forgot to put a relay in or something?

Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer. Where are you based in NZ?

I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)

From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave. Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue. I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.

That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.

My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.

Lots of e10 around me is listed as 91. Plenty of others also list it as 94 too.

Lower parts are there. On passenger seat, bright yellow bit is the release mount. On drivers, bright yellow bit is the lower buckle for the other side. My bet is lowers are tucked out of the way as much as possible for visuals.

I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!

The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.

For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.

All I hear is ROADTRIP!

The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.

Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.

I believe @Duncan has given it a crack at Mt Buller before (in actual race conditions)

I would tend to agree, especially based on the transfer oil being completely cooked by the sounds of it. I bet it was serviced every 5,000km... Which probably worked out to once every 15,000 real kms...

Where is the warning "That this thread is super old" I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old

Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.

I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected. Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.