MBS206

@PranK to help you feel better, this is what happens when you run two of the big ones and have a heavy foot...

Filler will set solid and water tight. If you need to, get in around the inside with silicon between the window and edge of the car, but only if that spot is leaking.

Welding thin sheet metal, is hard. Welding thin sheet metal and keeping it in the shape you want, is REALLY hard. Welding RUSTY thin sheet metal, and keeping it in the shape you want is nearly impossible. A dodgy fix... Is cut the rusty crap out... Expanding foam, and putty/bog to rebuild that corner... At least then you can reshape it to look half decent... Sprinkle some metal shavings into it too, then at least a magnet will stick to it. Probably more bodge than Murray's bodge idea...

Hot tip, stop picking at shit. Live in bliss instead From my recent experience in rust repairs, white it may seem to not go much further back, you'll still need to cut back a bit further. From what I can see there, the outer skin, and the inner is rusted too. From what I can see you've got the inner one which is all structural, and window likely affixes too. If tag Murray Calavera here, but my phone won't let me tag him, he'd probably be able to give the best advise. I do know, welding roof panels is a right pain in the bollocks! Very heavy to heat distort the roof and warp it all.

There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.

Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛 Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session

If it's just a vibration at higher speed, check wheel weights too.

I hear they also spin bearings like an RB26...

Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.

Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.

You'll likely find, you never really get pressure to pop that valve. If you are getting "pressure" it's going out the unrestricted hole before it hangs around to build up and pop the rubber flap. IE, it's headed for the intake pipe. In reality, if we did it right, your "vent" would actually go to a PCB valve at the inlet, and you'd still have the two the intake pipe too. When in vacuum, motor sucks it in, when on boost, PCB shut, and you will be getting enough air flow past (if they've put the catchcan pipe on the inlet in a good spot, at the right angle) which will create suction. Current setup in reality, you're just forcing it to the intake pipe.

Mark, please add to your shopping list a cask of wine. For when the Hills Hoist is installed...

You've got yourself a good old game of have fun. That shit is annoying as hell to remove. Thankfully for you, yours is on metal, most of the stuff I take it off is plastic, so typically hear guns are out. I normally end up continually dragging my thumb with pressure over it to get it to peel up. Eucalyptus oil then works well for getting residue and last remnants off. Edit: plastic scraper might be worth while too. One that'll dig into the foam tape, but not scratch the paint.

House warming party is when?

Seems to be common, also depends on what "full" is too. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352876-rb25de-fuel-consumption/

Just run it on methanol, and add a touch of WMI.

I will agree here. My R33 GTSt when stock was doing the 13 to 14 L/100km on my daily driving duties. Out on the open road, just cruising for hours straight, that fuel usage majorly dropped. When comparing fuel usage between people, you need to be VERY wary of driving styles, as well as how their normal routes look. As an example, we have two identical cars at work, on my daily trips, I'll regularly do 9.5L/100, however, one of our other drivers is regularly using 2L/100km more than I do. We could swap cars, and we'd each still get the same returns. A huge difference in our economy differences, is the differences in the type of drives we do, I end up more on the freeway, they get a lot more purely in suburb streets.

Package SC on exhaust side. Remote mount turbo. Still a fair bit of room when you get creative on the inlet side of the motor too. Especially if you can get really creative with the welding, and effectively build it into the bottom of the inlet manifold. Would definitely take some design work, and some trial and error, to make sure flow works well still! Might be easier to just start with the Nissan March though... All the work is already done for you...

Put a timing light on it. It doesn't take much and timing is out. Out too far either way can lead to catastrophic failures.

My first thought after reading first post was, did you set the ignition timing properly, especially after removing the CAS.

4 GTRs, so what, maybe a house deposit in the Western Suburbs? 😮 😛 The white on the right is an R33 yeah? I'll help you roll it away forever too... PM me your address

Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up

I'm not 100% how the BMW racers do it, but I know from other brands like Merc, moving, and changing the coolers is one of the things. Like getting a transcooler out from infront of the radiator to out near a wheel arch. So some of the stuff you've got crammed in the middle front, spread it out and open up where you can in the bar to get more air in to the sides.

Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...

Just 2, and inline. One switch temp related other switch driver controlled. I'm nearly in my head back to Arduino land for it...