MBS206

Turn the AC on, you'll be fine I find phones these days, don't even like sitting on a dashboard in a cradle without overheating!

My R33 has been 1.8m under water in the middle of a friend's farm, and then left to sit for two years without even a door opened. It has sat in sheds, driveways, and even my old backyard just on grass. It looks a million times better than the northern hemisphere cars! I've never once in my life, for any of my car's thought about resealing the bottom of one, as that stuff never wears off in my experience. Even on the landcruiser, which has over 450,000km on it, and has been driven in some horrible dirt/gravel/mud! It is good to see this R34 is being looked after and cleaned up!

Bullshit! You can do meth there too...

Once you have the motor out, it's literally exhaust, unbolt centre of tail shaft from chassis (2 bolts) and then 4 bolts for shaft removal from diff, then 4 bolts for gearbox cross member, and the box will drop straight down. Put the engine in the car, onto engine mounts loosely, leave engine attached to crank, but at rear of engine. Engine will tilt backward a bit. With 2 people is easiest, offer box up to engine, do a few bolts up. Tilt the engine and box back to normal position, and put everything back together. Putting engine and box I to the GTST is doable, but it's a lot of weight, up high, at an awkward angle. If you're not really careful, you're going to scratch the firewall, the tunnel, or the radiator support, or all 3. Ask me how I know... It is possible to also offer the motor to the gearbox with gearbox still in position, in this instance, I'd have engine mounts removed from engine to give you ease of sliding engine forwards/backwards to get your bush shafted, without smashing mounts to cross member while trying to line it all up. However you do it, the absolute most important thing to do, is make 100% sure the clutch plate is align before tightening the pressure plate. I strongly recommend buying, borrowing, begging, or even stealing one to help yourself (or a spare gearbox input shaft). If clutch plate isn't aligned, no matter how much of a master you are, you'll look like a teenager trying to do it for the first time, possibly even asking yourself "is it in? is that it? Am I doing this right?"

Just put a modern RB in it. And by that, I mean a Barra...

Ahh, sounds like it has probably been on its way for a while. Too many wasps mate, you'll need some mortein for it 😛

Sounds like someone just needs a way to get some more rear brake proportion in as step one. Step two, bigger balls. 😛 ha ha ha ha ha

I'm going to throw this in here as a thought on brakes. But if ABS is already kicking in Hella hard, you won't really be able to "brake harder" as your limiting factor is already the tyres, yeah? I understand if the rears aren't at their limit, going a bit bigger / slightly more rear bias will help there, but going to a larger front rotor, you're just adding more brake force at the front, which is already on the limit right?

I just went and double checked to make sure my terminology was right: - Drag Radial, supposedly good for breaking axles and stuff, typically outright a quicker tyre. This is the "solid clutch center" I made the analogy to. - Drag Slick, more forgiving, as sidewall flexes and lets the wheel rotate a bit, outright a touch slower, but a more consistent tyre over different surfaces/temperatures etc. This is the "sprung clutch center" I made the analogy to. Not sure if there are road legal drag slicks available though, so means you'd need to take two tyres, jack, and rattle gun with you. Maybe get yourself a 4WD and car trailer... More expensive than NRMA though As to the launch, so you're sitting there at like idle, and then just roll onto the loud pedal? You would have to test this with your car in particular, but you might find it quicker off the mark with holding the brake, stalling against it, and getting the rear end to already be torqued up, AND pulling the suspension down. It also means any and all play in the driveline has been removed already. I'd start by doing it with a little bit of throttle to just squat the rear, and as you come off the brake, you don't need to roll it into full noise instantly, though, you have the TCS system, so you possibly can get away with rolling to full noise pretty quickly, but leaving it that split second does at least allow the car to START moving a little before you throw all the killawasps at the diff and axles :P

It's got no twist in it compared to the twist in the broken one!!! Before you bin the broken bits, can you tell me if the ABS tone wheels can come off those shafts or are they welded on to it? Which drag tyres have you been running to? I remember years ago chatting to a drag racer, and he'd only run one style of drag tyres, as it allowed way more flex in the rubber, the other sort he didn't like was stiffer, and it's just snap the shafts all the time. Kind of like running a sprung vs unsprung clutch centre, but it's at the tyre. Are you stalling the motor by trans brake, or by using the brakes so the whole drive line is loaded up?

If the Minister asks, it's a no. But covert operation says yes

The rear floor mats. Even to this day I reckon are wickedly awesome! Some days I wish I still had some of that stuff for mine rather than stripped out to be used for track work only. At the time though, someone needed a way to make it less street able so I would keep my license / not die.

The country doesn't have gutters. Just huge ditches on the side of the road... 😛

Let's keep it OT. I bought a 2010 Swift Sport dirt check. I myself love the thing. Until you're driving it for a while. Mine is basically chairs with no padding. They kept it simple by never adding much of the unnecessary stuff, this includes ANY sound deadening, so it's loud. Low profile tyres, and suspension that is about as soft as a go karts... It's not "quick" in a straight line, mine makes about 100hp at the flywheel from the factory. (HKS from memory make a bolt on turbo kit that can take it to 200hp at the wheels...). However, it can deliver the power, while in a corner. It's super light, and REALLY chuckable. The only thing I would warn people about... if you're pushing it hard in a corner, and need to lift, you better do it very delicately, or you're going to be facing the direction you came from about 0.01s after you lift... Oh, and to stop, just look at the brake pedal and you'll headbutt the windscreen. Each time I drive it however, it makes me laugh at how fun it is to drive. We have the MIL's Mazda 2 at the moment. No thanks, you can keep those! You can add to the list to look at being the Corollas too. Also, if you're thinking Prado, got a 2015 or newer Rav4 instead.

BRB need to go pickup the PoleStar2 Twin Motor vehicle...

Ha ha ha! Would love to, but nothing to enter into it with, or easy way to get something there. At the moment I've got the work Hyundai Kona EV, and while I think it'd be interesting to give it a thrash, she'd be good for 2 hot laps at most before I hit temperature limits on the batteries. And that leaves me with the swift, which would be an awesome track car, but it's not registered, and no easy way to tow it there Unfortunately the cruiser leaks oil faster than a sinking Ship can, and Sarah bent the Subaru 2 weeks ago, so it's waiting on assessment Maybe I should steal works Veloster, it at least looks like a race car, and has the exhaust, intake, and tune to match what time is it starting out there?

Is the time Attack on Thursday night, or it's an all day event?

Double check the AFM is plugged in too, AND both temp sensors are plugged in too. Do a huge double check for air leaks too.

I gotta say, years ago in my R33, I was fine with the HICAS. Once it was back up at standard ride height that is. But, what was described where you'd throw it in, it'd help tip it in, and you'd feel like you've tipped in too much. I learned you have to be prepared to commit, you need to know it's going to do it, and then you could drive through hard with it. My thoughts on it were, while it could help make a shit driver make the turn, shit driver would still be slow as they themselves would be sawing at the wheel thinking they've tipped in too far, hence they're fighting HICAS. Kind of like the GTR drivers you see have the rear end come start to come out, so they drive it like a RWD, and not an ATTESSA fitted vehicle that needed you to commit and let the system work. As for why is it not used in racing? There would be a lot more reasons than just "it's shit". Part being much higher wear and tear from racing, and being controlled pretty openly by a computer, unlike wear/movement you can get in a front rack the driver is the feedback loop. Improving reliability of the car if you take a bump in the back by being able to beef the rear end up a little. Weight, especially in the R32. Heat, (in the R32). Simplifying repairs. Simplifying setting up and tuning the suspension at each track. Now you've really gotta look at some form of caster in the rear, and understand that because the rear wheels can now pivot on the contact patch, you've introduced a completely new realm for how the tyre will cycle in the suspension. Look at it on the front, as you cycle the suspension up and down, and look at the contact patch changing, now do that same cycle as you're turning the steering wheel. Adds a whole new level of complexity. Add in again, drivers not being used to it at all as it's new tech. Look at the old crazy turbo cars that were laggy and then hit like a sledge hammer, circuit guys took time to learn how to drive them. Hence, because of lots of reasons, it can be easier to just ditch it, especially if it's not gaining you THAT much extra on the track, vs something like learning your way around an extra 200hp from a laggy turbo. Oh, also, lastly, it could potentially be regulations too.

Will back up what trident said. Pull it again, and check the marks. Take photos of all the marks and post them. Also check the harmonic hasnt spun the outter section which has the timing marks. Also check you've reconnected everything properly, all pipes, cables etc. Do you have adjustable cam gears, or factory ones? When you say it won't rev, does it start all perfectly normal, but then you try and press the accelerator and it won't rev up? Or you're having to start the motor with throttle, especially a lot of it? If the latter, I suspect you have one cam advanced massively, another retarded massively, and you've done this by lining the gears up on the wrong mark. Been there, done it myself on an RB25DE head. Car would start and run a bit, but was basically at WOT only it would run (and wasn't much over idle RPM). I also had an aftermarket ECU, so was running MAP not AFM.

Upgrade anything you need to remove, that could help performance. Like the exhaust. While you're there, may as well do the turbo since it touches the exhaust too... Get the tailshaft double checked too...

Am I correct in assuming you're not running factory computer, and have changed the master cylinder? I have no recollection of a vacuum assist clutch, or anti stall being factory. For that matter, 950rpm is also high idling for an RB25/26, especially if stock.

What was your best 1/4 mile before this?

Holy shit! That sounds awesome! It's intriguing me to go back soon and read all the pages to figure out what has that sounding so wickedly different!

Nah, you just ruined that car by putting that pioneer headunit in your car... But legit, I've got a bit of a hate case with Pioneer now. Used to solely use their head units. However, the last two double din units. First one started doing weird shit at about 18months old with Bluetooth. Legit thought it a phone issue more than anything. 24 month mark and it did the same weird thing. Then restarted, then turned itself off. Never worked after that. Pioneer didn't want to know about it. Drove for 12 months with no music in that car. Put another double din in from pioneer. 18 month mark, has started doing the same thing. Haven't driven said car in 11 months now, but I suspect the head unit won't have much life left, IF it turns back on at all...