MBS206

Temp = -21.052 X Voltage + 114 That should get you pretty close. Calcs based on two points I could do easy calcs on (30 and 70 degrees). It also says your sensor should only read as low as 9 degrees when it maxes out at 5V, and should hit a peak of 114 degrees at 0V... Just as a heads up if you were going really cold places, or wanting to be aware when temps really go up with it.

It's possible it's the same issue, as I described. The twins also weren't able to bypass enough air around them, based on the wild restriction in the head. OP needs to confirm how bone stock the head is. Either way, on the setup, if the wastegate cant get boost eventually down to 12psi, there's an issue. Heck, maybe there's some sort of restrictor installed in the air line to the wastegate system. Slow to react to open, then when boost drops it's slow for it to go back down to close the wastegate enough. This doesn't explain why it can't get down to gate pressure though. I'd be testing the gate by slowly increasing pressure from an external air source and see how the gate moves. If he has the type of gate I think he has from his definition, the motion of it opening is non linear too which can cause issues with getting it to play nice.

If you have a valve, set to 12PSi, and when it ramps up, it goes out to 23PSi, and then settles for a consistent 20PSi and thats the lowest it will go, then I'd be suspecting you have an issue getting enough air to flow AROUND the turbo on the hot side. Now, this could directly flow into what GTSBoy is saying, and that's effectively that your skinny ports aren't able to get enough of the air through the head. Remember, boost isn't a measure of air flow, it's a measure of restriction. And if the turbo at max bypass around it is still able to deliver more air than the head can ingest, your boost will be up. In the NEO Head, being NA, you said it's stock, are you on stock cams, and stock springs in it? Have you tried doing a run with the wastegate held fully open start to finish?

I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...

Please leave the battery disconnected when you're not with the car. That cable isn't fused, and it IS the one that will burn the car to the ground.

Wheels on one for sale are much better than original.

So what was the issue?

Easier way... Convince Mark that he needs to do it, wait 6 months, and buy it off him for 1/10th the price when he's bored of it... 😛

I don't think you want to grumble about how slow it is... I think you just want to embrace the grumbly old man persona. 😛 PS, no matter how fast your car is, someone else will always have a faster car. 😛 And I'll leave you with this piece of advice... V12 swap with air shifted Sequential... Do it! 😛

All I'm hearing is sequential swap time. Gives you a shifter, and crisp hard fast shifts. You can even use flappy paddles with them. You just can't give the shifter the side to side shake to make sure you're in neutral

I'm purely suggesting, what every multinational business out there presently does! And the world governments all day it's legal.

And if you can't drive bigger injectors with peak and hold as low impedance injectors during low pulse width, it's even harder to get a nice clean known amount of fuel.

From watching the 6 hour, it seems they've really got the class A2 Ford Mustang sorted, as it was cutting it up in lap times with he X1 cars, which are all those late model turbo BMWs. I have no real idea about either of them, but watching what was happening at the 6Hour, it made the Mustang which is meant to be in a slower class look very impressive.

Also Mark, perfect timing for you to offer Fab9 to open an Aus branch for them, where you'll setup all the contracts that basically you're just the paperman, everything goes through Aus for their gear, and you can buy a piece of paper off of them once every 3 months that's really expensive. Tariffs aren't paid on exports after all. And for it, you'll just take 10% cut for your name on the papers. Oh, and a free NC intake setup and air box...

I'm not sure if Neil did head studs, but it is definitely steel wheels in the turbo. unless he stitched you up and left a standard turbo on the new motor and not the high flow 😛

Congratulations for tomorrow mate! Retirement is definitely a milestone worth celebrating!

Drop shipping isn't hard for them to sort out...

What does the circle hole on your image bolt up to in your engine bay?

Yeah, no... Kinky is right, LS would be the same, possibly better. That's even with LS7. The right gearing, good tune, free flowing inlet and exhaust. Good fuel usage

He should do an LS7 too...

That was a long winded way to say yes....

Best kept secret for seized bolts is crayons... Heat the sucker up with a torch, and push/melt crayon into it. Works a wonder. See if I can go 2 from 2 for you on how to get your bolts out...

I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...

Never an issue with boost control. No weird boost issues pre throttle at partial throttle like you're suggesting. It worked. As for all the turbo damage claims, they all were started by aftermarket BOV companies. At least turbo timer companies had SOME truth about them, except people failed to realise that except for in extreme circumstances, that small amount of driving you do to park/ through pit lane etc, is enough to not have a need for a turbo timer.

Did you clean everything out? Take all intercooler piping off, empty the intercooler of oil, clean the exhaust out, etc? Intercoolers make great catch cans... Which makes them less useful for intercooling... But very worth cleaning out, along with all adjoining piping.