MBS206

You know you're really old when the dementia kicks in over text...

I've always work on a 5% variation being acceptable in a petrol engine. Google reckons 10%. You could see if any of the translated service manuals give a factory allowance too. As GTS pointed out, new is also a chunk higher too. The real question is, how is the vehicle running? If it's running great, who cares!

I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....

I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!

Soit needs more turbo, and more manual. Either that or a few spare packs of rubber bands?

The exact same amount of heat having it mounted behind a kick panel. Probably less really, as even with some sort of sneaky cover you could give it more air breathing and ventilation.

So we strip internals of stock ECU, and use one pin, and jumper to another as a pin out, which is our power supplies. Definitely do able. Or we go back to make a new board that fits inside. But we're back to "but it's a skyline" and not worth it now due to small market

The normal trick would be to leave the factory ECU in place, with a look on it (that eventually goes no where) and reroute the engines wiring to a totally different location, like under a seat and mount the aftermarket ECU there, and then make sure it's hidden.

So we need to get together, design a new ECU, that can be mounted elsewhere, leave all the "factory" sensors "in-place", and then any it's not using, when it detects them unplugged, throw a CEL. Yeah, probably too much effort these days for a Skyline...

There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory. The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down. I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU. On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable". Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...

Do they always do it from the AFM? If so... You know what I'm already thinking I reckon...

This is why you flex fuel it...

Im really confused if that's what he's trying to say. (brain hurts, sitting in darkened room staring at too many computer monitors right now...) So he's saying during his build, they modified the oil pan, and instead of taking photos to show us how he had to do it, he posted a link elsewhere to a video, and now wants us to tell him the right pan he could swap to, or a custom/aftermarket pan he could use instead? Kapr, is that YouTube channel yours / that video yours?

Clickbait title, made it sound like you wanted information, instead you just wanted free views on your YouTube channel. No issue doing that, but instead of making new topics, create a build thread, and you can post the YouTube videos in there. Added to it, people can then build further discussion around your build. This sort of creation of a topic like you have is like what scammers and spammers do on other websites like FB "oh look at this cool thing, just click this link and go elsewhere". Prank doesn't need to pay the fees when a google hit finds your topic and someone is looking for that info, just for that person to be immediately driven away to a larger platform that doesn't support the enthusiasts here.

So the issue only occurs when indicating right, AND you're missing a bulb in it. Normally on old flasher relays, when a bulb blows, they start to flash quicker. If you have potentially another short, or a couple of lower resistance bulbs, the constant noise you might be hearing is actually the flasher relay dropping in and out really quickly. I suspect if you get your front indicator wired in, your symptoms will change...

Click bait is very much click bait...

@Duncan can you make this meet Targa Spec?...

GTR front looks good. If you don't like it, I'll swap you a rolling shell R33 for it. Give you a fresh base to start with.

@PranK I think a few links in the original post need fixing...

I've thought about DCT, and I think in pretty much every way sequential wins. You still have a pedal clutch, which means you can make it take off exactly how you want. There's no computer trying to work out if you're about to go up or down a gear. Without looking at the math, I reckon sequential will be a quicker shift. How they're setup, both can only go up or down 1 gear at a time. Did I mention no computer needed, so it can't ruin your day with some weird edge case with the sequential? I've not really ever found an auto box I've ever been 100% happy with even in normal daily duties, and the few DCT vehicles I've driven have the same issue. I would be intrigued to take a crack at reprogramming a DCT and seeing how well I can truly ruin my day for myself...

I was thinking it's helpful in clearing any doubt that everyone needs a bigger turbo and a new aftermarket ECU. Or an engine swap and sequential box...

Came here to say, put all the wiring from the new motor and gearbox in that you can, then throw the stock ECUs in the bin, and get an aftermarket ECU. Should be pretty easy if you can use a multimeter and read a wiring diagram to then use a PNP aftermarket ECU to suit the motors wiring loom, and make the minimal changes you will to get it to work in with the body loom (If any). This will mean you can very easily circumvent/bypass the Park/Neutral start disable switch, and get everything running really easy!

If the roof is dual skinned the whole way, IE, there's a "top" metal piece, and a "bottom" metal piece, to slow it down as much as you practically can, you should be able to get an attachment for a spray can/your spray gun, where it is a long, thin flexible hose, and when you're "spraying" it is spraying it in every direction possible. The I'd get that, and feed it through the roof as much and as far as you can. It's basically like fish oiling the car, but you're soaking it in rust converter. Then do the fix like Murray has described having cleaned up the existing metal as much as you humanly can. I'd also throw as much rust converter on that exposed metal before putting the fibreglass/metal filler over everything. As for welding a replacement in. I've owned my own MIG welder for about 10 years. I've also worked in an industry doing MIG welding for a job for about 3 months dead straight, and we were doing 11.5 hour work days 5 days a week, plus a Saturday 6 hour day. (I then moved over to running the massive CNC plasma as I could understand the technology, and work with the main guy out there). I also f**k around with my welders a bit at home. So what I'm saying here is, I've probably got more hours on a MIG gun than you'll manage to get under your sleeve doing home sorts of jobs over the next 5 years. I also have an ACDC TIG that I got myself a year or two back. I've got a short amount of experience on the TIG only. My home MIG is also presently setup for doing thin sheet metal. Unless I didn't care about how that roof looked, and I just wanted a functional metal roof, and it being out of alignment, warped, and bowed, I would NOT attempt a roof replacement UNLESS I could do it as a whole panel like Murray described where the spot welds were. Welding has this REALLY annoying thing, where if you want something to be perfectly square, unless you can clamp that thing to damn perfection (Welding fixture table), it is NOT going to be square, so you start to learn, the type of metal you're working with, how thick it is etc, and weld in VERY specific ways, and by knowing how YOU are as a welder, so that as the welds cool, the metal work pulls itself into place. If you want to see some cool tricky shit done, Bennets Customs is an Aussie guy, and he mentions a guy a lot call "Kyle", who is from "Make It Kustom". Watch some of their welding videos, especially on sheet metal. You can use the welder to shrink the steel in, and you can also use the welder to stretch the panel out. When you have the skill level that I have, you can shrink the metal in and out... But never on purpose like those two guys do. You just manage to f**k it all up. Then I smack it around with a hammer till it sits lower than I will want it too, then I shove filler on top and then pray to deitys that I can sand it into some form of sane shape that doesn't look like a dog has taken a shit, after eating a tonne of pumice stone... I'm all for DIY, and for learning, and please, feel free to give it a go, but be aware, you need to live with the consequences of how time consuming it is to do, AND that it's going to look no where near as good as what you can make it look with just some filler now. Oh AND, even once you replace it, it's like to still rust away again eventually, because you'll have missed putting primer and paint on some part of the newly welded in sheet metal, or against part of the existing metal you couldn't get to... Oh, and to weld all that in, you will need to pull the window out, and strip at least the roof and A Pillars of interior trim and wiring. You'll then need things like the big fire proof/weld spatter proof mats to lay down, OR you'll end up needing to strip the ENTIRE interior to avoid sending it all up in a ball of flames. If you want to see how annoying sheet metal is to weld, head to bunnings, buy there 600x600 1.6mm mild steel (Not GAL!) sheet, and cut a few pieces, and try and weld them together. Then understand, 1.6mm sheet is nearly 50 to 100% THICKER than the cars sheet metal. The photos I posted before, I'm replacing with 1.2mm thick mild sheet, and it's very easy to blow through both the original steel (Especially if I hit an area that should have probably been cut out a bit more) or straight through the new sheet metal. And I'm doing the floor, which can be hidden easily, and doesn't matter how pretty I make it, as long as it's damn strong! I'm also doing it in a 4WD, that has seen many off road trails, and doesn't need to look that pretty ever

@PranK to help you feel better, this is what happens when you run two of the big ones and have a heavy foot...

Filler will set solid and water tight. If you need to, get in around the inside with silicon between the window and edge of the car, but only if that spot is leaking.