MBS206

Big enough for you, Jackie, and some puppers mate! I vote some GSDs, but I am biased How big of a block is it on?

We have one that holds 2.8L of water. On floor carpet that hasn't been touched in 2 or 3 years, will take a minimum of 2 fills of the tank to do a bedroom, and that's going AROUND the bed. In the cruiser, I used an ENTIRE 2.8L tank, just on the front passenger footwell. But it had some fungus growing, and had been full of mud from being used as a 4WD for many years. I can do that floor again, and it will still pull mud out. However, the water now only looks dirty, not pitch black and leaving full sludge in the bottom of the tank it sucks back into. Oh, and, this is about a $1500 unit.

I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up! For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.

I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.

Time for a FFP with your upgrades, cover comes off easy then...

I've heard this theory, and can totally understand it, but has anyone put a temp probe in there, in free air to see how hot it actually is with it on vs off? I haven't seen any real data to know for sure.

Is it additionally possible you have a plug problem on one of the injectors, or JEM are pretty sure its the injector itself that was starting to get a bit sticky?

Another reason they go all smelly, is getting water leaks. If you don't get in and stop the water getting in, (Not just the little bit from in the air/on your clothes/shoes if raining) then it will rust things, and destroy electronics. I'm presently cutting a large chunk of floor out of a car and welding new metal in because someone didn't realise how bad a leak was in a car that was getting very infrequently driven. 2 years, and floor rusted through completely on one side of the car... I will also add, for anyone that hasn't skip the steam clean (I think it's a great idea as a part of your regular once every 3/6 months style of clean anyway) and get yourself a wet / dry vacuum. Like the big floor cleaners. As clean as you think your car is, you'll be amazed at how much dirt it pulls out. And the more dirt and crap you can get out, the less the car will smell, and my god how much nicer it all looks! @The Bogan Mark has a specific car one that he raves about. I just stole the mother in laws wet/dry vacuum deep cleaner, and use the hand held section. On a car that hasn't had it before and is 25+ years old, I can spend over an hour on the passenger floor alone, and STILL deem that section as dirty, and more dirt just keeps on coming out! Honestly, in the time we've all had our cars, when was the last time you deep cleaned the carpets or seats (cloth type seats)? You'll be shocked how much crap you're sitting in... And then you'll need to go home and do any carpets in your house too, as that will continue to terrify you...

Welcome to now being really annoyed at trying to get stretched metal nice and flat again. Or... Fill the low on each side of the high and sand it smooth and forget it has a minor bulge not mirrored in the other panel

His gate spring is already 8psi BELOW what the system will run as a minimum. I don't expect much if any change to the boost curve.

According to Josh, one of our local Americans, it seems the USA still can't get turbo systems quite right at a lot of places, so possible that they're not running great at all, but they've just not complained as NFI about getting it right...

What is shown here by GTs is what I was getting at about the gate being non linear. It's like the throttle in your car. Roughly 80% of your power is controlled with 20% of the throttle blade movement. Same same for your wastegate which makes control very hard.

Or just wire a multimeter in, sit it up like it's a gauge, go for a drive, read temp gauge, read multimeter, speak to phone and tell it to take notes.

Temp = -21.052 X Voltage + 114 That should get you pretty close. Calcs based on two points I could do easy calcs on (30 and 70 degrees). It also says your sensor should only read as low as 9 degrees when it maxes out at 5V, and should hit a peak of 114 degrees at 0V... Just as a heads up if you were going really cold places, or wanting to be aware when temps really go up with it.

It's possible it's the same issue, as I described. The twins also weren't able to bypass enough air around them, based on the wild restriction in the head. OP needs to confirm how bone stock the head is. Either way, on the setup, if the wastegate cant get boost eventually down to 12psi, there's an issue. Heck, maybe there's some sort of restrictor installed in the air line to the wastegate system. Slow to react to open, then when boost drops it's slow for it to go back down to close the wastegate enough. This doesn't explain why it can't get down to gate pressure though. I'd be testing the gate by slowly increasing pressure from an external air source and see how the gate moves. If he has the type of gate I think he has from his definition, the motion of it opening is non linear too which can cause issues with getting it to play nice.

If you have a valve, set to 12PSi, and when it ramps up, it goes out to 23PSi, and then settles for a consistent 20PSi and thats the lowest it will go, then I'd be suspecting you have an issue getting enough air to flow AROUND the turbo on the hot side. Now, this could directly flow into what GTSBoy is saying, and that's effectively that your skinny ports aren't able to get enough of the air through the head. Remember, boost isn't a measure of air flow, it's a measure of restriction. And if the turbo at max bypass around it is still able to deliver more air than the head can ingest, your boost will be up. In the NEO Head, being NA, you said it's stock, are you on stock cams, and stock springs in it? Have you tried doing a run with the wastegate held fully open start to finish?

I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...

Please leave the battery disconnected when you're not with the car. That cable isn't fused, and it IS the one that will burn the car to the ground.

Wheels on one for sale are much better than original.

So what was the issue?

Easier way... Convince Mark that he needs to do it, wait 6 months, and buy it off him for 1/10th the price when he's bored of it... 😛

I don't think you want to grumble about how slow it is... I think you just want to embrace the grumbly old man persona. 😛 PS, no matter how fast your car is, someone else will always have a faster car. 😛 And I'll leave you with this piece of advice... V12 swap with air shifted Sequential... Do it! 😛

All I'm hearing is sequential swap time. Gives you a shifter, and crisp hard fast shifts. You can even use flappy paddles with them. You just can't give the shifter the side to side shake to make sure you're in neutral

I'm purely suggesting, what every multinational business out there presently does! And the world governments all day it's legal.

And if you can't drive bigger injectors with peak and hold as low impedance injectors during low pulse width, it's even harder to get a nice clean known amount of fuel.