bubba

You mech doesn't know a decent diff/tranny guy? The guy I use in WA charges $200 to swap a centre and set it up.

Adjust the rod at the top of the pedal.. The only time you will have serious issues is with multiplate clutches and getting the correct bearing/carrier size. I'm going to assume you bled the system properly after changing slaves?

No, it's a series 1 stagea and I think you'll find it's under the passenger seat..

While an excellent idea, it will be a hard slog. I agree with the pushing of an alternate licensing/education strategy, it is something I have been an advocate of for a long time. One thing I must point out though is, if you set up a petition, make sure it isn't one of the online pieces of junk and it MUST contain the words "THIS IS THE WILL OF THE PEOPLE" otherwise it holds no weight whatsoever and will be filed in the bin

Ouch!

Jealous I need the gearbox for the Stagea to hurry up so I can transplant my 30!

Impressive!

Ok lets firstly dispell some myths.. All a "catch can" does is catch oil.. requirement for most racing categories (must hold a certain volume) so you don't spew fluids onto the track. Useless in a street car. In a street car running a plumbed back system, you need an "oil/air separator" which is kind of like a catch can but has strategic baffling to scrub the oil vapour from the air before it is returned to the intake stream. You can run a "catch can" AND an "oil/air separator" and then plumb back to the intake. For a stock street car this is overkill, only a separator is needed to scrub those nasty oil vapours out. For a modded street car with bigger turbo, making reasonable power and gets beaten up on then the catch can and separator setup would be beneficial while remaining legal. If you block the PCV valve then must also block the return to the intake pipe. Basically, vent cam covers to catch can and then vent to atmosphere (those little filters you see on top of catch cans). I also vent my dipstick to the catch can to help reduce oil stuck in the head.

Did you leave it plumbed to the intake? If you block the PCV valve you HAVE to run atmo..

Paintball tournaments in Thailand, Phillipines and Malaysia this year

Interesting.. I'd use the heavier block

I actually vent my dipstick to the catch can, a cut down old dipstick tube fits in some 3/8 hose quite nicely

I ditched my aircon and had two 11" thermos on the front of the radiator (no shroud) but retained the engine fan and shroud.

That's the only down side

AN is a US military designation. If you don't mind waiting, you can get fittings and hose from summitracing.com for good prices

Didn't even realise he made them.. not a bad price but not sure I want to be the guinea pig http://www.spoolimports.com/billet-oil-pump-gears

Reimax also do gearsets for standard RB26 pumps (which is the way I will go next build as they have a little more meat on them and I don't need the 100psi @4000rpm that the N1 gives me) so cost can remain low if needed. I really don't see the need for the 1-2k oil pumps unless you're building a 1000hp track car or something stupid and if I was going that far, I would ask my machinist to replicate the JZ oil drive setup or just go external pump.

5kg is a significant difference! Sure it's not an RB20 block?

Well there there has to be a reason they got Reinik (now Reimax) to make gearsets for the N1 pumps used on their racecars..

Was running 24mm front and 22mm rear Whiteline swaybars on my 32, excellent bang for buck! Both had 2 points of adjustment.

Those coil wire things you speak of are not to handle more pressure, they are to ensure a nice bend when using tight radii with straight hoses. In my 32 I ran my own completely new heater hoses using brass barbed fittings where I needed really tight bends and unicoils elsewhere (instead of using more barbed 90deg fittings and introducing more possibly failure points).

Or just spent $430 on some Reimax gears

Fingers crossed I have a new ride this weekend

I'm running Reimax gears in my N1 pump with a welded up crank snout machined back to suit the gears and an ATI balancer, works for me. You haven't dropped the balancer at some point have you OP? it's not even like you were pulling serious revs when they broke.. something more sinister is wrong here..

Well you know how to fix that