bubba

Any chance you can take some photos of the M35 diff please scotty? Is yours purely RWD now? (i.e. 350z front diff?)

I also wouldn't be rev'ing it stupidly high on stock rods either, even with nice fasteners! The great thing about the 30 is you don't NEED to rev it THAT high to make decent power. My current setup is stock rods, stock E pistons, fresh bearings, longnosed crank, N1 oil pump with Reimax gears.. once it's transplanted into the new car I'm going to lean on it and see what the stock pistons/rods are actually good for I would guess the power steering pump is an RB20 item but even with the RB26 stuff I've come across a couple of different types of brackets and pumps which really threw a spanner in my works

Balancing is more about revs and longevity, not necessary but certainly beneficial. If you're going to rev the thing really hard, then balancing is a must! As said above, whoever tells you RB30's can't rev high or they grenade is a douche. Correct balancing and tolerances and you can spin the thing to whatever you want.

My original 30 conversion was done in a weekend and bolted the RB25 turbo straight back on, drove it home in the wee hours of the Monday morning I didn't say it's ideal, just that it can be done if the situation requires

Nistuned RB20 ECU Standard balancer is fine but I would keep the revs to around 6500rpm unless you're building the bottom end properly (balancing, clearances and balancer to suit 7000rpm+). Just a FYI, the RB30 runs a 3-rib p/s belt whereas the skylines run a 4-rib belt. With the RB20 p/s pump+bracket, I just ran a 3-rib belt no worries. Now that I have the RB26 ATI balancer on there, I had to change to an RB26 pump+bracket.

Because along with the RB26 head, they are a direct bolt on to a 30 block with no mods required Oh and +1 to NOT using a Nismo low-temp thermostat.

With a small turbo, yes, you can.. I ran my 25/30 with 25 turbo on an untuned RB20 ECU for several months with no issues (other than running a bit rich ) Also a z32 afm is good for well over 300rwkw, many documented cases of them handling up to around 370rwkw..

What mad082 said and I will just throw this out there (because I'm heavily biased), you have the perfect head for an RB30 twincam conversion.. AFAIK z32 rotors are the same size but not sure about caliper bolt pattern, you should be able to find some 32gtst brakes cheap as people tend to upgrade them to 33gtst/32gtr. Never done a 4-5 stud conversion so can't comment any further.

I'm easy, if I have a new ride by then I'll do my best to be there

You can get inline thermostats which have 4 hose ports, you plumb it in between the sandwich plate and the cooler..

Why not just trace the outline of your water pump onto a piece of plate, cut/drill, and bolt over the hole.. from memory nothing protudes from the block so a flat blanking plate should be fine.

Also have a look at summitracing.com

I fitted a full R32 GTR cooler setup to my gtst, complete with factory bov's and recirc pipe, I really don't imagine the 33 being that much different. There was some drilling of holes to bolt brackets to but the GTR utilises bulkhead fittings (for want of a better term) which should make it less defectable. The two pipes under the air filter on a GTR are the turbo outlet to intercooler (larger) and the bov return (smaller). It's actually quite a nice, tidy solution.. grab a workshop manual and have a good look, I've attached the 32 exploded diagram P.S. the piping is BIG though, 3.15" (80mm) from memory

Go to a Mazda wrecker and pick up an OEM cooler with a built in thermostat, then see below link for a $60 relocation kit without hoses.. Even with some hoses made up I don't see the whole setup costing more than $200ish.. "MAX CNC REMOTE OIL FILTER ADAPTER with 2 1/8 NPT fittings for EVDM oil pressure and temp senders $60.00 CNC machined aluminum fitttings include adapters for SR, KA and a wide variety of engines. Requires two -10 hoses from Earl's etc. to remotely plumb the filter, or three -10 lines to run an oil cooler in the loop as well. Depending on the length of hose you purchase separately, you can mount the filter anywhere to make oil changes a snap, in addition to increasing capacity. Two sensor ports (with plugs) are included for oil temp and pressure guages. For use with larger filters like FRAM PH7317 or equivalent diameter filter." http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?4

33gtr rad should drop straight into a manual 33gtst

Could be a crappy blade design on the generic water pump but my money is still on the radiator As you've probably found the N1 is designed for sustained high rpm (7000rpm+)

Non-turbo I think but I was leaning towards a vacuum leak..

I found the cheap ally rad just heatsoaked horribly, after about 20mins on the highway the temp would start steadily climbing. Burnouts would get it hot enough to spit coolant everywhere.. put the GTR rad in and I could drop a 1-2min skid without throwing any coolant, temp never got over 105deg and would cool off reasonably quickly. Something I have noticed with the newer engine fans is the blade count and design, must have been done for a reason Just a thought.. what water pump are you running?

Sounds like you plugged back in the p/s solenoid or whatever it is and your steering system is no longer throwing a fit

Stock gauges are notoriously unreliable, if you're worried then get a half decent oil pressure gauge and see what is actually going on. Did the pressure drop and THEN the engine die? Or did it want to stall and THEN you noticed the oil pressure was low (did the light come on?)?

It will be the cheap ally radiator mate, I replaced mine with a stock GTR radiator and never looked back. I was also running 2x thermo fans on the front (no aircon) as well as the engine fan. Sorry, can't help with fan differences.

AND I'll have a spare Neo head for a future build

That's basically what I run but with 33gtst calipers on the 324mm discs.

Black 33gtr with SAUWA sticker in Ashfield this arvo.

I think I actually took it pretty well.. was probably the shock