bubba

I've got a bit of axle tramp when dropping the clutch in the wet at low rpm, once she's running again I need to get a pro to have a look. Got my freshly machined crank, bearings, Reimax oil pump gears, new timing belt and oil pump gasket ready to go, just waiting on access to the workshop!

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I used a HPI braided line from JJR and turfed that dampner block/circuit.

o..k.. I've running driving my Stagea around in RWD for nearly a year with some hard laps of Barbs and several skidz thrown in, my transfer case is fine. I have tested on a hoist and there is NO PRELOAD. This works so well that we've actually dyno'd cars over here with this method and I've even installed a switch so I don't have to fish under the dash for the plug.

Hindsight is always 20/20 Glad you got it sorted anyway mate, now you can just enjoy teh beast

That is a new height of dodginess! and the reason why I do all this stuff myself

Two things I will mention, I just got some Reimax gears for my N1 pump, for AU$430 delivered it would be something to think about doing. Get a decent sump just for safetys sake, I run an ASR 6.5L baffled/gated item. Power? Probably looking at ~350rwkw?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/109111-duncans-torque-splitter-in-an-awd-stagea/page__p__5341785__hl__attesa__fromsearch__1#entry5341785 Some previous discussion, I think there was some more, will try find teh threads later

Unfortunately my lack of wheels prevented me from getting up there My mate came off the track on Friday and didn't go back so I ended up playing with the r/c car instead

Good luck! Please post vids of epic skids

A non-turbo R34 auto is pretty much an R33 auto.. But there must be a way to make the 401b boxes strong as I'm pretty sure there's a guy in WA using a 4WD 401b box in a drag car...

For me nowdays it's generally convenience>customer service>price, but if I can do it myself for a lot cheaper (and time permitting), I'll give it a bash.. at least that way I know which corners have been cut

Tried any of the wreckers in the WA Consolidated Workshop thread?

Well you will pay for convenience and sometimes I do just that but the GTR injector upgrade cost me a grand total of ~$160 (had to get some new o'rings too). Hopefully the handy DIY'ers out they realise it's not rocket doctory and this gives them some motivation to have a bash

Which bit? The resistor box would have been no more than 2hrs max start to finish with plenty of smoke breaks. Probably the same again for the harness but that was done in a couple of stages (leader lengths weren't determined and plugs weren't fitted until plenum was finished). Total cost for resistor box and harness would have been not much more than $50 (resistors, ally box, wire, heatshrink, conduit, grommet, new injector plugs and 6-pin/1-pin earth/power plugs for the harness). I've spent $$$ on injectors before and for the current goals I couldn't justify it when I could install fresh 440s for a fraction of the price of an aftermarket solution. I now also know the injector wiring is all mintox

Came off a local race car here, it clocks it by exactly 15deg (I have drawn them up and played around with different sizes). They are for 296>324mm rotors and unless you machine the adapter out of a solid block (because the offset is so small) you have to rotate the caliper to get the clearances around the bolts. Have not noticed any bad diving under brakes or anything like that.

That's very odd Al, mixing and matching girdles is a no-no.. are you 100% sure you didn't mix them up? Even if the other girdle torqued down and everything spun fine.. I still wouldn't be running it like that. I would be inclined to get the main tunnel line bored so you know it's all good.

Yes, it's called the Consult port and I think it works a little differently to the standard OBD systems. In the Stagea I have a CarPC and run Datascan on a daily basis. In the Skyline I have nothing at the moment so I am looking at an ECUTalk Box. Although, I have been intrigued by some of the new tablet PC's but unless they have an onboard USB port (can't find one that does yet ) they are useless.

6x 10ohm 10W resistors from Jaycar, some wire, some heatshrink, a diecast ally box. I used one big fat power feed into the box, split to the 6 resistors with 6 individual wires out. Traced back the common injector power feed in the loom, cut it and fed to the resistor box. I also traced back all the injector earths, fitted a 6-pin plug and made a whole new injector harness with brand new Bosch plugs. Some people wire the resistors into the harness and be done with it, personally I think that's well dodgy. I put the resistors in a stack of 3x2 with gaps in between and ally shims top, middle and bottom. I used thermal paste on all contact surfaces between resistors, ally shims and ally case. Just make sure you heatshrink all exposed wires so they can't contact the case. Thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/62674-gtr-injectors-into-rb20det/page__st__100 Pic of my resistor box..

http://www.hypertune.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=90&Itemid=83 That's about it, but it will probably cost a LOT more than your cheapass FReddy plenum did. Personally, I run a Q45 throttlebody.

GTR injectors? I paid $100 for some GTR injectors and a carton of beer to clean/test them, I then made up a resister pack for a grand total of <$30 and knocked up a whole new injector harness

I'm a big fan of the electric Autometer gauges, and +1 to oil temp/oil press/water temp.

When I got my 32 it was on its' balls and it was horrible and scraping everything got mighty annoying! Raised it up to how it is below and haven't looked back! Handles soooo much better and doesn't scrape anything

I was doing my first hill descent down Welshpool Rd in a 45t truck that day

Yeah it should do