bubba

Nah I wouldn't bother after just changing the dump unless after changing the dump it's making a few more psi.

Ok well if it has been tuned for where it's at then you really want another tune ASAP if winding more boost into it (wouldn't bother trying to run more boost until you put the new dump on though).

Did you use a sealant where it goes over the cam seals?

Shouldn't need to after changing the dump the and if it was the stock ECU I would say it will throw a fit somewhere around 10psi. Who tuned the mircotech? or are you running on base maps?

Can't see the pic but yes for the oil pressure sender.

I used my C's RB25 shifter in my RB20 box ages ago and all I had to do was swap the RB20 bush on and then shim up the clamp-housing-thing because the neck of the RB20 box was shorter than the RB25 box.

Obviously via a relay, tried another relay?

Ok, this is from the nissan_ecu_tuning_basics.pdf on the NIStune website..

I'm pretty sure there is MIN and MAX TP tables, separate to the TP Load limit. I will load up NIStune when I get home and take some screenshots.

Doesn't heat increase resistance? There could also be a connection that becomes dodgy once things heat up and expand. When you say the fuel pump is directly wired to the battery, is that 12v from the fusebox? or straight from the battery in the boot?

What I am saying is that while that top corner of the map is extremely rich (look at the required duty cycle to reach the target AFR in those cells, it's up around 150%), there is a table called TP Load Limit, which is the "afm (boost) cut" that people talk of. It tends to be maxed out in the lower RPM and decreases as the RPM increases. When your TP goes over this threshold is when "R&R" is encountered. What the ECU actually does in this instance I'm not sure (as in how much timing and fuel is altered and where it is referenced from, I do not know).

So where does the TP Load Limit table come into it then?

Well seeing as the issue only started after you relocated the battery to the boot, and patch in another battery at the fuse box seemed to help the issue.. I am still thinking it's a major voltage drop due to the battery location, or poor wiring/bad earth etc.

It's all good, if my oil pump gears get here in time I will probably attend in my 32gtst

No, it's a separate map of TP vs RPM that when the TP goes over that threshold timing is pulled and fuel added. That being said, the top ends of the factory maps are so rich it's not funny, over a certain point the injectors are fully open! (saw 150% duty cycle )

Ordered the Reimax gears on Friday, will see how they go

The trailer looked like it would be a good movie.

Late R32 GTR, R33 GTR, R34 GTT and R34 GTR are all "pull" type clutches but the difference is in the slave cylinder (pull on the fork as opposed to pushing), not at the master cylinder.

I thought it was because the spinners counteract the effects of gravity, thus preventing the car from stalling. Seriously though, atmo bov's are gay and not necessary. On my 32GTSt I've just gone to a full 32R cooler setup with the twin bov's and recirc pipe, welded a 2" return for the bov's to my stainless intake pipe and running a stainless mesh pod.. It's actually quite noisy!

= MORE FUN I'm only tentative at the moment, if I can get the engine sorted within a couple of weeks I will see if there are any spots left

Have you tried patching a battery back in near the fuse box?

Yeah, chicks dig pidgeons.

You sure? They were in Ozzy Park for as long as I can remember but last time I went past (few months ago) the building was closed and derelict, phones disconnected etc.

Not imported, no. The last set I bought from PBP just before I took the 32 off the road ~18 months ago, cost about $550 for fronts and rears.