iamhe77

These cars have a separate ECU for the transmission

Including pipe of course. I believe that the plug is the same on the early 350z's, yes?

Pfft, inflated correction on NSW dyno....

Dare say you could put a 350z AFM in...

Speaking of price discrepancies for DLC. Mates and I are playing Dust 514 at the moment and the price to buy "Aurum" is 1.5 more expensive via the AUS store than the US store. Makes me lol as I am the only one using a US account.

amayama sell genuine products

If you are going to Nissan, have them read the error code before you get a new AFM just to be sure that is the issue. No way should you buy new parts without knowing the error codes first! Regarding the code retrieval process, you may be counting your second too quickly. Get a watch with a second hand to time it correctly if unsure... also make sure you wait the 3 seconds after turning the car to ON.

No.

Blown turbo does not cause limp mode. Best bet is the air flow meter.

Won't be there. Headers won't be on car in time and I don't really want to be breathing flames in my engine bay

Needs less multi-coloured car

If you are referring to the pics, an M35

JASMA accredited exhausts only have to be under 94dB.

I think this was covered "recently" http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/267956-m35-aftermarket-exhaust (For reference, search parameters were "M35 aftermarket exhaust")

Why would there be issues with the steering column? Tomei are Japanese and Japanese cars are RHD in case you hadn't noticed

One can only hope

Nothing really to see. Small BT mic coming out of the top of the A-pillar and iPod sits in the tray under the arm rest. Audio is very, very clear... better than the PA11-NIS I had in my previous Stag. BT quality is good but callers hear quite a bit of echo. Haven't figured a way around this yet. Yep, plugged straight into the stock head unit. Press "FM" button then "CD" about a second after. A voice then says which option will currently be in use (USB, iPod or AUX), just need to press the Next Track button to switch between them.

Just so happened that my screen played up tonight. Timing is everything as they say. * Yes, I know I pushed it down quite a bit more than 2cm... bit overzealous, but it works every time

Haven't done much to mine for the past 4 months up until last week. Nice to be working on the car again. Installed my Grom USB2 unit with BT and iPod interfaces. Works well Installed Nismo rear diff cover and changed front and rear diff oil (NEO Platinum 75w90HD) Installed V36 Y-pipe - Yes Alex, straight bolt on and no issues with the transfer case Picked up coated headers from HPC in Leongatha and plan to get them in with the Berk HFC's next weekend.

245/45 will be perfect for your 18x8's.

Try pushing it down a bit more when it is first popping up. It will not stay up if you didn't push it down far enough or quick enough. Don't wait for it to hit the top before pushing it down though and don't hold it up. Doing this trick resets the winding mechanism's "top" which is where it locks and turns itself on. I have an extra unit here which is doing the same thing and was going to take it apart and try to implement a manual switch of some sort, but found the easier way

Only schoolboy prats care "which is better". Buy what you want and enjoy it. PS4 will have to prove its worth to me though... and it better have non-upscaled HD as opposed to the PS3/360.

Came in looking for more PNM35 build. See crusty old 180sx with catch can hoses the wrong way around. Am disappoint

BCM (body control module) starting to play up, or possibly the BCM wiring harness? Has been known to do some very strange stuff if there is a moisture issue, bad wire contact or just a faulty unit.

Where did that bonnet come from? Modelled from a Dolphin or is it a Dolphin one?