Stinky Rooster

I doubt very much that a drop in size of 0.5" at the muffler will make enough difference to be discernable. Do a bit of reading on Charles Law, and you will see why. The gas temp at the muffler is about 25% of the temp at the manifold, ergo you can quite drastically reduce the diameter of the exhaust a fair whack (and a lot of manufacturers do) without causing a restriction. There are also more than a few proponents out there that support the idea that reducing the back end of the exhaust diameter will actually help pulse scavenging (in an NA car, obviously not in a turbo application) which will contribute to low end pulling power. Its also for this reason why hi-flow cats make a difference to performance, and cannons do not. Personally, I would not let the back end diameter get below the std exhaust size from the manufacturer though.

You betcha - and its a damn nice drive both into and out of there https://maps.google.com.au/maps?q=the+core+cidery&hl=en&ll=-31.910205,115.930481&spn=0.496617,2.364807&sll=-31.968884,115.931338&sspn=0.496303,2.364807&hq=the+core+cidery&t=m&z=9&iwloc=A As I work in the kitchen, I wont be a part of this, but I can confirm the superior quality of the food and cider on offer, and will make sure to pop out and say g'day at some point. And can I recommend the bacon and egg roll, served with house made BBQ sauce?

got a part number? http://amayama.com/ they have a searchable cataloge, but its easier if you can dig it up elsewhere. I have had some pretty epic success getting parts through these guys, and I am pretty sure I am not the only one around here.

We really need a school holiday filter.

Looking forward to checking out the beard* in person *or lack thereof

Anyone interested in a breakfast on Friday 8th December? Ross and I will both be in the city that day, and given that its been over a year since I have had an opportunity to attend a brekkie, Imma going to organize one. Your intentions, give them to me

wut?

Massive props to OP for organising the run. epic scenery, epic roads and epic company for lunch. We should all do this again sometime soon.

then I am down like an extra chromosone!! pipe and slippers crew reprazent yO!

Got any spare seats in your lounge room?

fkn love to brah, but 6.30am starts in canning vale mean it aint gonna happen

Keen as fcuk. Gotta check in with the events manager, and will need to ride shotgun probably, as I doubt peeps will be up for waiting for The Devine Wind to catch up, but other than that, hell yes!

tried an oil change?

my latest favourite http://maps.google.com.au/maps?saddr=Waroona,+Western+Australia&daddr=-32.837068,116.0472379+to:Dwellingup,+Western+Australia+to:Scarp+Rd+to:Scarp+Rd+to:Scarp+Rd+to:Unknown+road+to:Kingsbury+Drive%2FTourist+Drive+206+to:Kingsbury+Drive%2FTourist+Drive+206+to:Nettleton+Rd+to:-32.2822908,116.0773942+to:Nettleton+Rd&hl=en&ll=-32.414748,116.104889&spn=0.906581,1.234589&sll=-32.226035,116.014874&sspn=0.014195,0.01929&geocode=FaXOCv4dCtfoBinLUK0AkhIyKjGA8XkkOPYABA%3BFTTyCv4dhb3qBinHbWtxhj0yKjGwwS8zQuo3jQ%3BFQPRDP4dwffqBikx4CLvRzkyKjGA6nkkOPYABA%3BFVFmD_4dsynqBg%3BFWH7D_4dZkXqBg%3BFShdEP4dKDjqBg%3BFUv1EP4dWXLqBg%3BFaEWEf4d39HqBg%3BFQiTEv4dEBXrBg%3BFaKzEv4d9QTrBg%3BFU5pE_4dUjPrBikXJv5xffMyKjGZSfSotLX83g%3BFU1FFP4dRSXqBg&oq=dwe&mra=dme&mrsp=11&sz=16&via=1,10&t=m&z=10 Its a loop from waroona to byford, could be run in either direction. 120km-ish loop that is 80% 80 zone and above. Best part is, you dont need to speed to enjoy it. I wouldnt recommend it for ultra low cars, as there are some rough parts, but the roads are fun (I do them in a 1200 ute and enjoy it) , the sceenery is awesome and there are plenty of places to stop along the way. Its usually pretty secluded too.

http://www.amayama.com/

I agree with the sentiment, but until there are moderators that are actually here enough to maintain the site, its just not going to work. As with SAUWA in general, its only as good as the people who are willing to keep it running, and there just isnt enough of them about anymore

First up, towing the car to perth is going to set you back around 5-600, so factor that into the repair costs. Second, they wont need the key to tell you its been curbed and smashed the sump and/or cross member. External damage is usually the smallest part of repairing a stolen car. Mechanically, even if it sounds OK, chances are it isnt. Thirdly - if your insurer have offered to pay you out a nominated value, they have already accepted liability, and as such, now own your car. You might get the chance to put in an offer to buy the wreck back, but it will be as a statutary write off, and you will need to take it over the pits again, just like when it was complied, after it has been repaired. At the end of the day, if you think you can get the car back on the road for around what you will have left after buying the wreck back, then its purely a personal desicion on wether or not you still want it. And if my car was taken on a midnight paint-thinners-and-emu-export run, I am not sure I would want it back again. Like I said - most damage done to stolen cars isnt always immediately apparent.

homebrew ftw

Yeah, that was kind of why we settled there. I reckon there is probably some better value about the place though. Anywhoo, I will try to be there. If anyone n00bs show up, I will be the hobo out the front panhandling

salvos, wesley mission and anglicare all have xmas appeals on atm, and all do some fantastic work in and around our city or you could just volunteer at the wesley mission xmas dinner. I did that a few years back, and the warm and squishys lasted a fair while afterwards, just saying.

^WHS can thoroughly recommend his work

Looking to bling up the yawn worthy trim in the wifes new shopping trolley, and was wondering if anyone had ever used the waterbath coating processes used to put patterning, such as woodgrain, onto any interior trim bits, and if so, is there anywhere in WA that does it? I found a place in Vic that I can send my bits to, and this isnt an isssue, but I am trying to find someone that has had it done, and what sort of issues, if any, they have had. http://www.dashboardcentre.com.au/information2.php?info_id=11 I am not looking for a fully hektik show class inetrior, but on the same vein, I dont want something that looks shit and rubs off after 6 months. You opinions / experiences - give them to me.

your lack of examples speak volume. ever ridden a ural? or driven a lada?

Yeah, because russian made gear is SO much better........

V8 supercars was NEVER based on Group A The supertaxis were created at the same time that all of europe, and even japan, had dropped the Group A specs (mostly due to the bigest race series- the DTM, going to an engine sized based category) as it allowed the creation of more of a "silloutte" style of race car. Its interesting to note, that when the supertaxis first started, there was actually a Group B subcategory for cars under 2000cc that complied with the FIA Class II Touring cars. This never actually took off due to the "sister" series of the supertourers offering pretty much the same regs, but in a more competitive environment. In the year of its inception (1993) they even allowed entrants from cars that complied with Group 3A 1992 touring car specs, but only for naturally aspirated RWD platforms - but this was only to allow people to get one mnore year out of their homoglated VN Group A's. After the start of the 94 season there was no longer any link between group A (of any class) and the supertaxis.