SilverECR33

RB25DET Unopened Regulary Maintained HKS GT-RS Power FC ECU with HC and heaps of other little bits and peices. 255rwkw @ 1 bar (14.22psi) On a safe tune. Powercurve turned out very Linear as expected, see peak power at 6500rpm approx, Car is very nice to drive, has a sports car feel still. Initial surge is torquey and the pickup is seat hugging. because of the Linear powercurve, traction is managable Big thanks to Dale_FZ1, Sydneykid, FineLine, ShaneF, wrxhoon, 3lit3_32, MR331307 and anyone else I have missed, That have lent advice and information to me and helped me over the last 12 months regarding my setup. Much appreciated. This is the First tune. with more to come

hahah yea , Well managed to fix the hicas up abit, but the suspension is still stuffed Lost the internet for a while so was unable to update. Tune went very well, as Noel said. Car has a very linear powercurve. very nice to drive, As said also Suprisingly with only 14 psi made 255rwkw, on a safe tune. highly Recommend Mick from Signature. chucked it on a dyno down here in bris and it reads 10kw higher. So I doubt Micks dyno is happy at all. Infact i think its smack on accurate. regards, dale.

yes. I noticed the power difference aswell, after I added my fuel pump also. without changing anything else. Although my difference in power wouldve been less noticable than yours however, because mine was pretty much stock back then, with just fmic and avcr.

Big thanks to Noel (FineLine) and Shane (Shanef)!!!, for comming out today. I really appreciated your help shane, Your a champ. They are right about Sau you know, Really helpful bunch , Im just stoked right now, car is ok. Happier than a Junkie on Payday. cheers, d

Spotted > Black R34 Plates *OHHWEE* Logan hospital.. very niceee (like borat says) Also saw Toy 033 - Red R33 GTST. at the hospital aswell. Both were driving in, so technically were not parked yet

lol ^^

hi guys, Well since I started this thread, I was retaining stock levels of boost at the time. I have since been driving around on about 11psi, on the stock turbo via AVC-R controller. New test results show, that in both wet and dry tests, compression and valve seals are wearing due to the extra psi. here ar the results from the dry test, (same test results Posted prior) 1. 152 2. 144 3. 140 4. 135 5. 140 6. 145 Interesting to see the differences from the extra boost that has been running. I think for Everyday driving it would be safer to retain as less booost. This test was preformed on a normally driven car, only given now and then rarely. Regular oil changes and services etc.

Line up behind me. mines done and tuning tomorrow

Cheers mate, I got em done thanks

Oh noes!! Im stuck,, Im not sure, because Ive never changed an Injector Before. Espeically on a skyline. I've searched the forum for threads for this, But didnt find anything. Ive got everything off and now looking at the fuel rail and injectors. and Im wondering. Do I pull out the fuel rail too? Any advise on the correct proceedures on doing this would be Much appreciated!! Thanks In advance. **ps.. Im replacing the standard injectors with Nismo 555cc injectors

Was a bit wet out there today, But I dare say Everyone had a ball. Made for some entertaining Spectating

oh hell yes, that is awsome!! thanks man, good watch .. I th ink i saw a mines GTR in there too.

looks stupid, But I'll give him points for the conversion. wouldnt have been easy.

that looks like the same chassis of the 4door looks like they justmoved the center window piller back, and made the front door longer.

My first concern is why it blew in the first place. lack of oil? incorrect oil lines fitted for the new highflow job? when u fitted the new turbos, did you use the highflow lines again? also how was the compressor housing side when it blew? have u dropped the oil to look for metal?. also you said the o2 sensor copped a hit visually it was damaged. i would change that. and as someone else mentioned. clean out the exhaust and cat. then check ur dump pipes, for cracks or holes, against the housings before the o2 sensor, it could be nothing but worth doing all the same. sounds like ur having some bad luck., so good luck with it

Personally i feel auto's are for 'family' cars. and manual's for 'Driving' cars. depends who you are, what you want out of your car etc etc. On a side not, stock v stock, manual is faster down the quarter mile, and has better fuel econemy. you also will have more power at the rear treads, as shown in numerous examples. also the manual has a more responsive feel. I used to work in the city, and I found the manual was fine. It really just depends what kind of clutch you have or get. But like many people have said, it depends what you want it for, and what your doing with it. good luck with ur purchase

pm sent

thats interesting. as my first time out, saw me doin a burnout the first 2 runs. then a rather experienced drag racer told me, "try not to do a burnout next time, as the street tyres perform worse hot". And as he said, I didnt do a burnout, and ran my PB time so far.

Great work, both you and your team. looks and sounds amazing!!.. good luck with breaking into the 7's. I look forward to seeing it!.

Oh woops.. i didnt .. lucky ive sold that motor

On older engines, it was perfectly fine to use oil, i cannot comment on whether grease would have been better or worse. But I thought your not ment to use grease on ur main cap bearings. What I can say, (which sounds like your describing), is that when the crank is stopped, its harder to get moving, then once its free its fine. then when u stop, it sort of sticks. On the last rebuild on my v8. The crank did the same thing. and it was perfectly fine. If your really worried about it, borrow another torque wrench, and retorque it. and see if its the same. since their is no oil pressure, the bearing oil hole and groove, can only pickup oil from spinning. when you sit still, the oil is pushed back off the bearing into the groove, you have to then spin it to pick up the oil into the hole and groove again. Thing is, you must still be able to move it buy hand, at the correct torque. if its harder than that. its possibly too tight. but i would rather a professional post here. as Im a novice. good luck.

I was thinking the Exact same thing.

This is correct. And the reason for my choice. Parts just arrived recently, and Im very pleased with the level of Craftsmanship and detail gone into his work. I mean if they function that well and Look this good. why would ya go anything else if your willing to spend the $$$. Here are some pix enjoy.

I know this is a silly question. but.. Did you oil on your bearings, and crank before installation? did you confirm all bearings are around the right way?

alot... why dont they interview someone with Half a clue!!! Also that guy is a tosser. and his car is a POS. And they put a skyline in the back banner. Great work! why couldnt they put a civic!