JustinP

Great to hear your first hand experience with the EFR8374. I'm currently building an RB25DET Neo with an EFR8374 0.92 IWG and I'm getting pretty close to completing it. Now I'm even more exited to get it done! I also see you are from Wellington! I've spent the past couple of days looking around Wellington, currently on holiday touring NZ.

I have them in my Neo with the same cams. Will be running close to 30psi, although I still havent got mine going, so I can't really comments on them haha.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated. I already installed another heavy earth cable between the chassis and the block, I guess I will stick that cable on the new plenum somewhere. I guess you can never have too much earthing!

Thanks - I should have thought of searching for the part number... I assume that controls the traction control butterfly, which is no longer present. I assume it will be OK to unplug and remove this alltogether? ECU is a Link G4. Any ideas on the other cable?

I'm finally putting my car (R34 GTt) back together after many many years and I cant remember where the cable in the attached picture connects to?! It's the earth lead that is connected to the battery with the middle of the cable connected to the chassis. Can someone help with where this end connects to? Also in the second picture, what is that box for, the thing up behind the glovebox and above the ECU? It appears to be making a loud buzzing noise now that I have attempted to turn the engine over, even when the ignition was switched off. Cheers Justin

How much are the GT-T badges. And also the radiator brackets? Cheers Justin

I might be interested in one of those vband 90 degree bends too. Or even just the vband to suit the outlet, I couldn't find them on the Full Race site. Actually I also need an exhaust vband flange and clamp to suit an EFR8374 0.92 IWG turbo, an EFR boost solenoid pigtail and an internal wastegate canister heat shield (thats compatible with the single port Turbosmart actuators). Maybe you could do a package for us in Australia?

Sold a long time ago guys, sorry.

I have a full turbo back system to suit an R34 sedan that I may be willing to part with if anyone ever requires one.

Yep I bet it is this...

I have one too I never used (still new). PM me if KiwiRS4T doesn't want to sell his to you for some reason

1) Take the car outside at 2:30pm. 2) Align the top of the CAS with the sun. 3) Profit with all that cash you saved buying a timing light. Thats the way the Mayans used to do it.

SOLD! Pending payment.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__72896__Trackstar_1_10_scale_Street_Runner_4pole_ESC_combo.html

Intercooler is in good and clean condition and is a cheap and easy upgrade for R33's. I believe they will also fit R32's with some minor modifications. I'm looking for $80. I'm in the central Perth area.

If you think $1000 on the oil change etc. is too much too lose then a turbo conversion should be the last thing you are thinking about...

PM sent.

Perth

Price drop, $835.

Water methanol injection pump, electric water pump, wideband, lots of other sensors, etc.

Yep, i think that will be a better idea than finding a direct source - thanks.

I need to find an unfused ignition on power source for my R34 GTT as I will be running a number of devices with high current draw that will be independently fused. What is the best source for this? Should I trace the wiring going into the ignition key block and try and tap it there, or try and find the source in the interior fuse block in the drivers side footwell? I can't easily test for voltage at the moment as there is unterminated wiring going everywhere, so I can't hook a battery up without frying something. The other option I guess would be to run a relay that is triggered by the cigarette lighter ignition on power. Cheers Justin

After applying lots of brute force and breaking some of the plastic I finally lost it and got the hammer out Then eventually I found the last remaining 10mm nut holding it all in which needed an extension about half a meter long to get to. At least its finally all out now!

I have the 10% one in my R34. I'm still building the car so I haven't driven it yet, however its installed and I would say it makes a huge difference. It really is almost solid, where as the rubber inside the shaft on the old one was so soft there was a huge amount of flex in it. Obviously this will come at the expense of NVH but I think it will be well worth it as the standard skyline boxes are not the most precise units.

Yep I have already removed all of those hoses / pipes connected to the heater core. The core itself is still in there though. I think its the connection to the ducting that goes to all of the vents in the upper part of the dash that is preventing me from getting it out. The whole unit is moving around quite a bit so I know its still not bolted to anything, I will have another crack at it today.