JustinP

Regarding the pen marking on the back, this is actually from the factory! I have an R34 turbo with a similar code written on it, with the same pen. Looks like the same handwriting too I have found a few parts on the car with similar handwritten codes, including the gearbox.

New Kinugawa wastegate actuator to suit Garrett GT30 series turbos with an a/r 60 front cover. Adjustable and includes all optional boost pressure springs - 0.5, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2 and 1.5 bar. Very solid billet construction and top can be rotated to suit requirements. Also has a second boost reference port, if required. $95 including delivery within Australia. Cheers Justin

This attached brochure (third last page) says the manuals were helical and the auto's viscous. That being said, perhaps the NZ imports were all specified with the helical diffs. R34GTT-Brochure.pdf

I always thought all R34 GT-T manuals (series 1 and 2) came with the helical torsen diff, and the auto's came with the VLSD's?

SOLD! Pending payment.

Turbosmart Kompact Plumb Back Blow Off Valve - Nissan (part number TS-0203-1226) New and still in box with all accessories including gasket, sticker and install instructions on CD. Test fitted to engine, but never used. Direct replacement for the standard BOV, takes two minutes to install. Perfect if you suspect your old BOV is leaking or if you are running higher than standard boost. $125, plus postage. http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/Kompact-Series/Kompact-Plumb-Back-Nissan.html Cheers Justin

Actually thinking about it, the cold start valve will always be open given no coolant will be going through it to close it when warm. Hopefully I can just turn down the IAC valve screw to compensate.

Thread revival! I'm not going to plumb my cold start valve to the coolant lines on my Neo engine. AAC valve will remain however. 1) Will the idle during a cold start be much of an issue? I live in a reasonably warm climate for most of the year. 2) Given the ACC valve is just a solenoid valve, would it be worth me wiring it up a separate controller that triggers it when the coolant temp is > x? The car has no a/c so I figure the AAC wont be used much by accessories in the car. I will be running a Link G4 ECU. Cheers Justin

New Kinugawa turbo wastegate actuator to suit Garrett GT30 series turbos with an a/r 60 front cover. Adjustable and includes all optional boost pressure springs - 0.5, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2 and 1.5 bar. Very solid billet construction and top can be rotated to suit requirements. Also has a second boost reference port, if required. $90

SOLD! Pending payment.

PM's replied.

Yes I have the receipt for the full turbo kit somewhere, I will find it. I paid just under $3k for the kit. Then extra to get the dump pipe ceramic coated and to change the oil and water lines to braided lines. And yep, by OEM I mean the standard cast manifold. Cheers Justin

Complete kit with everything needed to fit an RB25, including: Garrett GTX3071R turbo Genuine Garrett 5 bolt 0.82 a/r rear housing, IWG Garrett 14psi wastegate actuator Spacer plate to fit to OEM exhaust manifold Turbo nuts and studs All water and oil lines (braided) All other required fittings - banjo bolts, crush washers etc. All required gaskets Compressor outlet silicon elbow Dump pipe to suit turbo (ceramic coated) $1950

It's just science, really.

R34 GT doesn't have an intercooler...

Buy this. Bolt it on. Skidz. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455358-new-garrett-gtx3071r-turbo-complete-kit-with-everything-needed-to-fit-to-an-rb25/

My R34 GTT project goals have changed, from fast / responsive street car to dedicated track car. As a result I'm now selling the new complete turbo kit I had originally bought for it. It includes: Garrett GTX3071R turbo Genuine Garrett 5 bolt 0.82 a/r rear housing, IWG Garrett 14psi wastegate actuator Spacer plate to fit to OEM exhaust manifold Turbo nuts and studs All water and oil lines (braided) All other required fittings - banjo bolts, crush washers etc. All required gaskets Compressor outlet silicon elbow Dump pipe to suit turbo, ceramic coated It comes with EVERYTHING needed to bolt straight up to an RB25. I bought the whole kit through Kudos Motorsports, and they obviously sourced it through GCG Turbos in Australia. I had test fitted the turbo to the exhaust manifold, but nothing has been run and the turbo is still as new. Fellow forum member Mick_o made a responsive 335rwkw from memory (on E85) with the same turbo in his R33. The whole kit cost me about $3k, and then I spent extra changing the oil and water lines to braided items and getting the dump pipe ceramic coated. I'm looking to get $2,100 for the whole kit, plus delivery. Cheers Justin

I'm going to have the same problem regarding the IAT sensor with WMI (if I ever finish putting my car together). I'm tempted to just run the IAT sensor downstream of the WMI nozzle and see what happens!

Pics:

Yes that is correct, the plate is actually on the outside of the pump to seal it back up with the internals removed. The coolant still goes in through the (now empty) thermostat housing and through to that inlet on the front / passenger side of the block, like normal. The coolant then exits the engine / head via an outlet on the front of the plenum, pretty much like the stock setup. The only thing is the plenum does not have any other coolant inlet / outlets which is why I need to work out the best way to plumb in the turbo return / IAC valve plumbing. Actually I should have just posted a couple of pictures of it, would have been much easier! Will take some now. Cheers Justin

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. I will continue with my plan to plumb the turbo return back into the top radiator hose and won't bother with a breather tank. The plate over the old water pump will be fine, the body of the old pump is still there so there is plenty of room for the coolant to move through. The plate is just to seal where the old clutch fan connected. Yes I am using an alloy Davies Craig EWP. I will be happy even if it only lasts 400 hours, the car won't be driven much!

I have been thinking about how I need to route everything cooling system wise on my R34 Neo build. I want to ensure that the correct coolant flow paths are maintained. I have been referring to this which has been quite useful: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423082-rb25-coolant-flow-hose-swirl-pot-header-tank-setup/?hl=%2Bremove+%2Bheater+%2Bpiping However my setup is a bit different and possibly pretty unique. I would really appreciated thoughts on my proposed solution. My setup will be as follows: Running a plenum similar to the Hypertune ones. It has no coolant hose connections at all, other than the ports coming out of the head and the radiator top hose outlet. I'm running an electric water pump which is controlled by a computer. The water pump is located inline on the bottom radiator hose. No thermostat is installed. Old water pump internals have been removed and a plate welded over the front to seal it up. The heater and heater pipes have been removed. Oil warmer/cooler and piping has been removed. No throttle body warmer will be used. So basically I am left with just the turbo water return line and the IAC/AAC valve thing to worry about (I guess I might as well keep the cold start functionality). I want to keep things as simple as possible. Originally I was thinking that I would need to route the turbo return and the IAC valve to either the hose connections coming out of thermostat housing (1 and 2 on kitto's pictures in the link above) or from the connection towards the rear of the block (3, 4 and 5). Due to my water pump setup / location I don't think this will work for my applications. I am proposing the following: Block the hose connections coming from the thermostat housing (1 and 2). Block the rear connection on the block (3, 4 and 5). Run the turbo coolant return line through the IAC valve (it has three connections, I will block the middle one). Plumb the outlet of the IAC valve into an adapter which will go into the radiator top hose near the plenum outlet. I think I need to setup as above as the turbo will be fed coolant under pressure from the passenger side of the block and I will need to ensure the return goes back somewhere on the other side of the water pump. Given the location of my water pump I think this would be the best option? I also no longer have the coolant bleed points and I was thinking of getting a swirl pot / breather tank, however I think the radiator cap will now be the highest point in the system, so I'm hoping I don't have to worry about that either? The only part of the system that I think might be around the same height will be the turbo water feed line (high mount turbo). Sorry for the long post, but if any learned SAU members could give me some feedback i would greatly appreciate it!! Cheers