Busky2k

Gotta love the ruler flat torque curve once on boost, unlike the mountain peaks ive seen before! Very nice work.... Just wondering, how much did the correction affect the score?

So what kind of gains would you expect?

Makes perfect sense RedLineGTR. However, your better off getting say, a bottle of Shell Helix Synthetic ($45) and keeping that for 10,000ks than say, Castrol GTX Magnatec ($25) and keeping that for 5,000ks. You dont need to buy stuff like RP/Redline for good oils. Mobil 1, Castrol R, Shell Helix Ultra etc are well suited to a daily driven GTST and dont cost the earth. Redline/RP are overpriced IMO and only is worth it if u drive ur car hard on a regular basis.

Kinks is right, its only about 20% syn, 80% mineral. Sure its better than straight mineral, but I'd still try and fork out a lil extra and get a full Synth.

Just wondering, how come on many occations, when I see drag cars, drift cars etc, they're all running pig rich?? Even some classic clips where there was a RH9 shootout on the street, they were all running daammmnnn rich... I thought it was kinda strange...

Yeah its not bad, the bare minimum I'd use in a turbo.

I can never get my box into 1st gear >20kmh unless I force it, or I double clutch. At first I thought my box was rooted, but I find that almost any car with any decent ks on it behaves exactly the same! A good oil change with Castrol VMX 80 will help things.

Sorry JimX I didnt wanna seem so harsh. You suggested using Nulon's Engine Flush to people who would switch over, so I wrongly assumed that you used it too. I have had very bad experiences with Nulons stuff. One car a lifter became stuck with the stuff. My car, it caused my front and rear seals to start leaking badly, during the flushing period. That was enough for me to say 'goodbye' to junk like that. I'll never use them again. Infact, Wynns one is the only engine flush I know that is not solvent based. Also what I meant by the fact that your exhaust being dirty, how would it be related to your engine being dirty? The oil would have to carry this junk inside the engine into the combustion chambers, and then out into the exhaust. Thus you have to be burning lots of oil to do this, like 1L/1000ks. There is no other way engine gunk would get into the exhaust. Im suprised really, Motul 8100 is ester based, and burns cleaner than PAO based synths like Mobil 1 and mineral oils. Also most synthetic oils have very similar detergent levels, and I simply pulled Mobil 1 outta the top of my head as an example. You will find under oil analysis that Motul, Mobil, Castrol, Shell and all the other big players have simliar detergent packages. My point was, I dont see how you can blame motul for a dirty exhaust? Just remember, a shop guy is there to sell goods. Hell most of them dont even know what an ester is, let alone what the real difference between say, Motul 8100 and 300V. So take the Autobarns story with a grain of salt. Castrol R range is quite good. They wont cause junk buildup if you keep the oil change intervals around 10k because they are fully synth. Mineral oils will with no hesitations. Also sorry I didnt read your first post properly about being towed to a workshop. Didnt they actually remove the problem lifters and clean them out, instead of just flushing the engine? The biggest risk with solvent flushes is blocking the oil pickup strain screen. While flushes wont ruin engines, I wouldnt take my chances with them either. They're more of a last resort product IMO. And what kind of residues were in the catch can? If its just oil, np, if its crusty stuff, hrmmm... Sorry I didnt make myself clear.

He doesnt even sound asian at all?

It was probably the Nulon shit that screwed your engine, not the Motul. That Nulon stuff is just kerosene and loosens all sorts of shit and lets it float around the engine. Hence, probably blocked lifter over time. Never use solvent based flushes in your engine! Never! The Motul wouldnt have anything to do with a dirty exhaust unless you burned 1L per 1000ks with it in there. If it really cleaned the engine, how would it end up in the exhaust? Motul doesnt contain any more detergents than other oils such as Mobil 1 when looking at oil analysies...

Yeah why not, sounds like a nice idea.

Put in the old plugs agian and see if the miss goes away...

You have to tap the 'tacho' output from the ECU. A wiring diagram should point you in the right direction. Do a search to find it!

Haha you crack me up there Andrew! You werent kidding about takin pictures of promo girls now eh! Haha Suprised to see you wearing a HSV shirt. Well to have photos with chicks, why not! Otherwise....

Joel, I use the V-Groove plugs. They're great. My model # is BKR7E. NGK said the BK range is better for RBs and SR engines......

Thats a strange technique I have to admit. But remember as the revs climb, the hole will become more restrictive so it wont be a linear relationship between revs and air flow correction. You'll probably need to dyno it to get it correct!

Hmmmm most of these magic oil elixers are pretty dodgy in my opinion. Stuff like Slick 50 have been around for ages, and it does sweet stuff all to an engine. Teflon doesnt bond to metal full stop, and infact, it can ruin and engine. DuPont, the inventors of Teflon stated plainly it teflon has no use in an engine. Yet they still have sold millions of the stuff. Doesnt make it a better product does it? They got nastily spanked at court for false claims. Ditto with that MotorUp stuff. Its just chlorinated parrafins which do well in stuff like Timken tests, but it eventually breaks down, forms nasty acids and corrodes your engine. Hmmm chlorine....... So what can Roil do for the car? How does this stuff _really_ work. Is it just another chlorinated parrafin job? Btw Falex test doesnt really mean much in terms of performance of an oil in an engine. It simply tests the extreme pressure additives in an oil, which in an engine, doesnt undergo these conditions. Its more for testing of gear oils. Sorry I dont want to appear to slam your product, but I am a skeptic since there is a lot of dodginess out there. But hey, Im glad your letting people test your product for free.

Ive used a paintless dent repairer before. I cant remember who it was, but it wouldnt matter as I am in SA anyway. It wasnt expensive. He removed like 10 small dings all over my old car and it was like $180 all up. He charged by per panel, not dent. It was an excellent job!

Thats terrible. I hope everyone is alright, and that they learn their lesson. Brighton road is another classic place for drags... Another mark against import owners =(

Cmon EnricoPalazzo, chuck the car onto the strip, to get an idea of what its like. Then you can do a few tweaks and stuff and head back out again in a months time to see how much better you can do!

1JZ cos you dont have to crack it open to get past 300rwkw. I think M Donnon's Soarer hasnt been opened yet? And hes over 300rwkw. Correct me if im wrong tho. Altho I think the RB25 sounds tougher.

Well the thing is, if you reach 5V on the AFM then you basically have reached the end of the mapping capabilities of the stock ECU and the Unichip will not make a difference. Time for an PowerFC Dean.

I run NGK BKR7E (V-Power), altho they are 1 step hotter than the ones you have, they have not fouled up at all in the last 10,000ks and cold starts are perfect etc. So I would assume the 8s should be ok in most cases.

Nah, this is a street meet so its $35. Remember u have to organise a helmet. I'll be using 235/17s, flogged from my moms car haha (My 255s are crap!!!!!!)

I would be suprised the RB25 AFM would be maxxed out at 200rwkw? Cos with my SR20 AFM, its not even close to getting maxed out at 183rwkw. IIRC, last time i checked, it was about 4.6V at peak power, and this is for an AFM for a smaller motor? And the unichip would obviously reduce the voltage at certian rev ranges to get the right AFR, just like any other interceptor would, so you can get the Unichip ppl to do so accordingly, to banaid around the maxed AFM, if it really is.