r32woohoo

I considered the cas too but wouldnt that cause other problems as well?

Hey guys/gals My car has started missing at idle out of nowhere and i cant quite figure out why I know most lines have a very slight miss when idling and mine did too But now its constant like every 2 seconds, not quite as bad as having dropped a cylinder though. -It misses more as the oil temps go up -If i step on the gas in neutral and hold the revs eg: 2000rpm it still misses a bit but not as bad as when its idling -It used to misfire a bit on boost (16psi) with the old coils but with the new ones it doesn't at all. -I'm not down on power at all and the car drives normally. Ive just put in a set of new justjap coilpacks, new spark plugs and gave the afm and aac valve a good clean The coils helped a bit but it still misses Raised the idle a tad and that didn't help Ran some injector cleaner but i might try another brand as well Checked all the cooler piping for leaks and my vaccum pressure hasn't changed Fuel filter has been changed I'm going to try a different ignitor pack and see if that makes a difference I've considered a bad injector, how can i tell if one of my injectors are blocked/leaking? What would i be looking for if i put it on a dyno? Would the TPS have anything to do with this? Im running an RB20 with: RB25 highflow GTR injectors Z32 afm 040 fuel pump Ecu remap What else could it be?

How would you define heavily modified? Like every bolt on go fast bit you can find? Or a forged bottom end etc? If you were going to rebuild and stick with the 20 do a search on an RB24 (rb20 with gtr crank etc)

And it blocks your air vents lol Dont have pics but i modified my centre console moved the aircon controls to the bottom, head unit in the middle and got a plate made up for the top to mount the gauges Ive got the dimensions for the bracket if you're interested

s15 injectors drop straight in so ive heard

Shouldnt your motor be dead with a reading like that? Maybe you went over a bump at that moment and the knock sensor picked it up? Or a rock flicked up and hit the engine

The stock turbo is pretty much the most responsive turbo you can use (unless you go smaller but thats going backwards), but it runs out of puff in the upper rev range. An fmic will increase lag but only marginally. you will need another turbo to make more power but have more lag. As long as you dont go too big with the turbo the lag isnt so bad.

Cool as, ill have organise to come and see them some time next week

Sounds like your afm is dying mine just died recently and it was like you described it just cuts out voluntarily and surges.

Very interested Whats the offset on these? What condition are they in? I see some gutter rash in the photo you took

Bump Injectors still available Pics added for clutch

http://www.airco.com.au/ These guys have good gauges at excellent prices Might not be the best looking but theyre damn accurate

http://www.airco.com.au/ these guys might be able to help you with the sender. They sell them separately, but i wouldnt have a clue about compatibility with your hks gauge.

The gauge in my 32 is all over the place, as long as that warning light doesnt come on then you can relax My gauge will read close to zero while my aftermarket gauge reads a steady 1bar at idle when warm

well you really should have given it some revs to see if its actually slipping if you can let it out the whole way with some revs on board, without stalling and without the car moving forward then your clutch is slipping Alternatively, find a big steep hill, put your foot down in 4th gear and see if it slips. You should be able to smell it if its slipping aswell

gcg ftw!

So you could let the clutch out the whole way without any revs and it didnt stall?

You won't regret it guys. Im running one of these remaps in my car Boost comes on earlier, and harder I've got heaps more midrange power and response and made 182kw on 14psi

far as in if you can let the clutch all the way out without stalling if its smooth when the engine is off it sounds more like a gearbox/synchro issue

Start the engine Pull up the handbrake Put it in 4th gear give it some revs and see how far you can let the clutch out if you can get it out all the way then your clutch is dead

ive got a set of injectors, no rail though

I know where you can get one brand new for about $50 pm me if you want

I'm up for this. I'll transfer the money this week when i get paid

Mine smells only on cold start, once its warm you cant smell a thing I presume because the ecu runs it rich while warming up I had leaking injectors also but i got that fixed, before that the petrol smell was always there.

Cool thanks for the replies guys ill get on to it asap