rgr34

they look tuff in grey...that r32 looks tuff too any pics of the whole car?

interesting what ppl recommend for oil.... ive noticed since switching to full synthetic valvoline syn power i have better oil pressure, according to the stock gauge.... cold start its showing more oil pressure and when hot its never goes below the 2 mark.... the oil weights i use always been the same.... is this normal?

ive started using valvoline syn power full synthetic and seems good.. at around $50 to $60... previously used motul turbolight and also penrite.....

i adjusted mine in my 4age corolla... same process i would imagine. mine was only engaging right at the top....undid the bolts, i turned the fork clockwise and now it engages earlier.... so u might need to go anti clockwise to bring it out... Where does the clutch engage for you? saying that when i changed my clutch master cylinder... before i bleed it i had the issue your havng with the freeplay and not returing to the top... once bleed worked fine....

lol......... i wreckon its just intake noise....

i have ran 11.5psi for yrs in my r34 sedan not tuned at all i have is a full exhaust and pod /cai, spark plugs regapped slightly.. never had a issue but i dont drive it hard often. you however have all the supporting mods id say low 10 or so... and high 13 would be acceptable on the stock turbo....

it would have to be boosting alot i would imagine.... id probly not use the stock solenoid seing its got the exhaust and cooler... mayb get a cheap boost tap like a turbotech search it on here theres a thread somewhere.... easy to install that rubber hose ur holding plug into it and out the other end to the cooler pipe... and buy a boost gauge adjust it to say 12psi at most....

looks like the stock solenoid was not being used, the previous owner must of had a aftermarket boost tap/controller and taken it out... how much is it boosting at now?

im surprised that plug had spark.... and the car ran smooth....german engineering right there haha

from what i have read the varex seems like the go . wont compromise flow as much as the ecv... doesnt cost as much as a new system....

definatly flush the system and use coolant, i use nulon long life coolant pre mixed $20 for 5 litres so you need 2... or u could by the concentrate and mix it yourself with demineralised water. tap water for flushing only.... in my old corolla pre 80s i use the corrosion inhibitor and water wasnt really designed to run coolant...

congrats abit different to the 180sx lmao.....love the old mr2's toyota needs to make more cars like this now....everything they make now like whitegoods so bland....

celine dion greatest hits .... this thread is a fail but still funny haha

off topic but that soarer is tuff....... lmao

good luck with your search the 180sx are good looking cars....just dont settle i cant remeber the last time i saw a clean neat one they seemed to be thrashed /neglected...

that the grill yes...

i had the exact same issue as u, theres a little grill to the left of the steering wheel botom plastic trim. behind there is a sensor. my bet its dc so take the trim off and check it.this fixed it in mine. theres also another sensor in the front of the radiator check that its also connected.

i have lowered kings springs and mine have this isolation rubber/tape around the coils towards the top as they are so close together and rub on bumps, to stop them making noise over bumps... as soon as mine started to perish i got creaking noises when going over speed bumps.... try ringing centreline suspension thats where mine got instlled.... its looks like rubber stripes probably can get it at clark rubber!

the wagon looks real good the r34.5 coupe looks uglyyy...

i have seen a filler plug but not on a skyline as mine is auto. hence why i asked if it a Normal Bolt... maybe i was harsh but its the NET ppl should expect it! haha

u have no idea mate! he means if u fill it by removing the shifter from the top u need to know how much fluid u want to add as not to overfill it.. the filler plug is the level you want to fill it to not the top of the where the shifter is! .....

its abit of f**king around but i ran my boost gauge tubing on the drivers side... remove the kick panel where fuses are. there is a hole/grommet where the hood release goes through.. use that....once it through there u have to remove the drivers side wheel and remove the plastic inner lining, as the hole leads there. there is a hole which is located at back right corner driver side engine bay u cant miss it... if u put some wire through there it shoud come out the other side then u can feed it through.....

i take it its a normal bolt? may have to put a tight ring type spanner on it and give it a hit with a hammer to loosen....put some heat on it may make it easier... if its getin rounded maybe take to a mechanic put the car on the hoist more leverage/access should loosing up no probs...

heater hose should be alright. on my other car the oil hose that drains to the sump split and was pissingo out oil. it was a weekend i could not get my hands on oil application hose. so i used a heater hose... the shop was adament it wouldnt hold for long... 12 months later havent changed it! to hard to get to and hasnt leaked !

looks like rocker cover breather of some sort... just get a rubber hose suited to oil as i would imagine some oil would get in that hose.......mite be able to get away with some heater hose, but just check it doesnt split after a while....