rs73

not that I know of... my old R33 had aggressive negative camber and caster angles designed for track use. on the road they do chew the inside tyre very quickly. but not my V35.

i thought I would ask, it's a common 'mod' that people (or previous owner in japan) fit some 350Z springs that basically lowers the car without looking too low but could possibly increase the negative camber angle enough to wear the tyre on the inside too quickly. any good suspension specialist can check your camber. if the car is 100% stock then probably not much can be done in terms of adjustments but it could be that it is a bit off. no idea where you are so you'll have to try your yellowpages to find a good suspension specialist around your area.

has it been lowered?

i was told it was a $30-60 parts that goes in line with the aerial and just needed a +12VE and ground. can't see why you needed a meta-physicist who work for NASA to do that... any auto electrician (or yourself if you have time) can do it.

what other european countries have RHD? apart from UK, I think everyone else is LHD

forget it, buy a Lexus convertible coupe, trust me they'll look very much similar

c'mon guys, interests registered are up to 17, we need 133 more! http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131171/CATID=...uctdetails.html

to access the globe you need to either : a) remove the wheel guard shroud or b) remove the whole front bumper

oh and on ebay you can find all sorts of colour temp rating, 6000k above gives you white to blueish tint i would recommned NOT getting anything above 6000k as i've driven with blue-ish looking headlihgts bulbs before during my younger 'rice' age in the past and after an hour or two driving it is really tiring for the eye. anything above 8000K and the light output start to suffer due to the colour hue start to shift towards purple. now you start to understand why all good and proper driving sunglasses are tinted either grey or brown, not tinted blue! we're human with human eye, not Vulcan or Klingons. mine is 4500k the standard oem 'white' with maximum light output, sometimes you can find 5000 or 5500K, but easier to get 6000K these days they're more common and the light output is still not too bad compared to 4500K or 5000K.

if it's the D2R or either the D2S bulb you mean, they are expensive, expect above $100 in stores EACH side. They are meant to last a lifetime of the vehicle or at least a very very long time compared to std halogens. you can find them on ebay for cheaper price and you may wanna consider buying a spare because if one side fails it'll be likely the other side on its way out too, and with all the hassle in getting to the bulbs, it pays to do both side at the same time. I think I picked up mine for about $90 a pair from ebay.

scotty's got no friend... LOL

Unisia Jecs.... rings a bell, some kind of motorsport parts manufacturer in Japan, remembered it from one of the usual decals on JTC cars

Not sure mmm.... name is cool, though, having some plasma core you might get to reach warp speed...

ha ha, paddle shift is fun... but yeah in traffic it's still make more sense to just slap it back in D and sit back, relax and enjoy (rather not) the traffic crawl

this comes up on j-spec dealer cars... look at the background wall... LOL

I reckon same here in VIC, being the power to weight ratio thing... Some may argue since it's non turbo it's ok but knowledgeable officers of the law would know about power to weight ratio and you can get done for driving one on your Ps...

I'm not whinging either, being in the west suburb majority of people who want this are in the east/southeast, where some of them I had to drive to them at least 1hr45min-2hrs return trip plus 30min get it up and running. Once I had someone in templestowe that said his mates' car is 10min away and before I know it I ended up in warrandyte. I left my place 7pm thru WRR & citylink and didn't get home till 9:30pm when it's all over. Put petrol in factor (avg 13ltr/100km city mix if I had to drive there after work in traffic) plus I sometimes have to use citylink/eastlink to get there on time, plus monthly mobile broadband $15, at SAU price I'm just covering my basic overheads. a kid serving up burger in local maccas made more money/hr than that whole exercise. but I still do it for the love of V35, as long as I don't get a hole burnt in my pocket, a breakeven for fellow SAU members are fine with me. Yep, I know some of you are tech savvy but not everyone is, and nothing is worse than toasting the nav unit in your car to a dead brick because of 1 wrong step. Good luck finding replacement to that by the time it shipped down here from japan it'll be at least a couple hundreds of $ for a 2nd hand unit with no guarantee that the laser on the unit is stuffed or not. That's why we insist we come to you / you come to us to install it in person so nothing goes wrong. And I have a spare unit that I forked my own money for, just in case I accidentally toasted one into a brick. No one is perfect.

spotted a silver V35 coupe on the way home tonight @ Footscray

not really, the mrs loves to set her side of temp to Lo while I really hate it and always wanted mine set to around 20-21ish thank god for dual zone otherwise there's one more thing to argue about - LOL by the way does your aftermarket unit comes with a steering wheel control re-learning function? or have you lost that functionality since swapping?

by doing so you loose dual control temp.. but pw350gt (yun) said he could dismantle the old a/c dual temp button, and if you're handy with soldering iron, you can re-solder it onto the new button that comes with the dual din panel but don't have the dual temp button... lots of work but if you can successfully do it i'm sure it will feel rewarding!

they are not touchscreen on the V35. you do need to spend money but having the screen opens up lots of possibility of devices that you can add onto it... navigation, tv, cd/dvd changer, ipod video etc. radio frequency need fm band expander. any audio installer can do it no difference to R32, R33, R34 skylines headunits, just plug in the aerial line and find 12VE and ground. being a grey import won't hold value. fullstop. you buy it out of personal emotion, nothing outside the common brands of BMW will retain much value, not in the current volatile economic situation. you want value? buy a house.

if NM35 similar to factory V35 & 350Z touring, then would be better to use 350Z rear?

considering modding is a favourite thing in Japan, nothing stopping the previous owner in Japan to fit a Nismo speedo at 15,000km, drove the car on Nismo speedo for 50,000km, swap it back to the old speedo that he/she kept and the car still seems like it's doing 15,000km and sell the Nismo speedo. got some cash back for their nismo speedo and his/her car valued higher in auctions cos of the lower km.

option 1 sounds handy as I have an RCA lead cable already there just hanging around at the passenger side transmission well... just need to hook it up it'll be a breeze then!

does the spec.dock by default only provides audio ipod connectivity, I believe? how did you rewire the video part, andy?