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a few tricks, but actual bolt in is all off the shelf wrecker parts (i just grabbed a handful of shite i thought would work and had a play). i ended up using R32 x-member and mount brackets (R33 alloy wont work nicely) i then welded in a full front lower R32 rad support and castor rod brackets etc to get the best positioning of rad etc without modding firewall... a no no in drift regs. if i had the time i would have fitted the double wishbone setup too. rumor has it from Bai (d1 drift fame) that the laurel and cefiro x-member drops engine by 20mm.... no-one had one that i could find (but i would laugh my ass off it the one i got is as it was in a pile of xmembers and ther was suposed to be one in there... i just couldnt find it) so i used what i belived was R32, our 26 sits lower than other conversions though for some reason. I cannot fit much anything thicker than a paddle pop stick between x-member and sump. Absolutely Zero chance of fitting a deeper sump though as it already sits low, if it wasnt alloy i would be worried.

^^ good choice, get the local version if you can.

my point exactly. ^^^

screws with suspension geometry, to get a decent ride height the lower arms and steering arms have to much angle in them... the roll centre goes sub terrenial and the bump steer is not correctable even with the largest offset tie rod ends.

just drill and tap yours...

if this is the case you could get a faster combination out of something smaller.

with a Rb26 the sump sits 2-3mm fom xmember so it would achive nothing. i reckon you would only get 3-4mm with a 25.

he got shafted, we got the genuine uras R33-34 guards on the shelf.... most of our customers end up with a show quality conversion for about 3k. The gaurds are only about 600-650

as long as the shafts are not scored it should not be too dear, if they are... bugger as they (RA's) are coated in titanium nitrate which is an anti stiction anti-wear coating (gives the gold look).

Speak to CRD.

if in doubt measure from back of box with the meatl shroud removed to the rear shaft mounting face. This is all they need, they did the one for our rb26 with RB25 box into s13 with only this measurement.

haha yeah made mid 350rwkw no dramas (other than uncontrollable boost) but the poor old girls catch tank looked like a kettle on full boil at 1.5bar tooot tooot

athid gaurd roll FTW done all our cars, other than the ones i do with a baseball bat.

pull up about 30cm from a brick wall or a roller door that has some sort of horizontal lines, mark the wall where the light shines it will be a fairly definate line then move st8r back 10m and use the adjusters to bring the lights back to that position (make sure the ground is level). It is a pretty quick and easy way to get an accurate aim.... we used to do 100's of new cars as part of predelivery

as previoulsy mentioned use the R32 rear cover as it has better cooling we used to fit R32 ones to S13's.... some R32 gts diffs have larger crownwheel bolts but i have only seen this twice.

100% bolt up no issues, got one behind ours in the S13.

i thought you didnt want to rev it? T04Z is a little beyond what i would be comfortable with. Give Weisel a call he runs a GT35R on his Rb26 in the DA series, it makes sensible power and does'nt seem to bad on the track response wise and i think the rev limit is std. i had the same dilema but in the end decided on a K5-660R with a 7.11 rear, this should mean sensible 1.3bar of boost and rev limit.

similar to what i was explaining earlier, we had this issue with a mates 38mm tial gate it was just too small so boost would continue to build and finally reached a equilibrium of 1.5bar.... on a stocky eng it was only a matter of time. so we fixed the whole shebang.

gate size is NOT related to boost it is related to exhaust flow, if it is too small you cannot control the waste gasses correctley and you will either get creep or the boost will climb indefinately, but as he has since corrected his gate size from 38mm to 44mm it is no longer going to be an issue. as for laggy i usually compare the GT35R against the T67 8cm to my customers and the T67 will be on full song 1.2bar by 3500 and make 300rwkw no dramas i consider this not laggy 17psi on a daily street at 4200 is not exactly responsive. The Gt35R tho will provide more top end probaly around 30-odd rwkw to get this will a T67 requires a 10cm housing and cams (peaks about 340rwkw at 1.3-1.4bar). i do however agree though BANG for buck the GT35R is hard to beat and the extra lag and midrange loss for most is irrellevant cause they saved a bit of coin.... for me its a no brainer as we have both turbos on hand.

type s does not have a different sound to 90% of the other bovs out there, the HKS is the only one with a truly unique sound. the TYPE-S sounds identical to the replacement TYPE -RS

Nice combo, power figures seem pretty spot on the stock GT35r with 0.82 made about 320ish at 1.3bar so 300 @1.1bar seem close to the money.

i got one (R32 GTR) if anyone wants it $200 (or $150 pickup)..... useless, stock GTR rad worked better.

ferrea from rocket in sydney, used them in quite a few big hp cars with no dramas. http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/search.php?brand=Ferrea http://www.ferrea.com/productlines.php

flat screwy, shifter and hammer (for lock tab... nothing else )

rear=no