Bl4cK32

Already have the modified crossmember to bolt it up, and a custom 1 piece tailshaft Thanks for the advice though, didnt think of jacking the rear of the car up.

u daydreaming again joel?

So can u fit the rb30 + rb25det gearbox in an r32 in the one go all bolted up *a smile grows as i think of the time saved* I dont fancy lifting a r33 box 10 inches off the ground while im flat on my back

Sounds good to me

my thoughs exactly

*thread hijack* - sorry -Joel- what is the factory clearance recommended for their std. pistons? Wiseco recomment as little as 0.003

I think some else wrote it betterthan i could say it :

what if there are no oil squirters?? Would u go for the other aftermarket pistons Warpspeed? ie Wiesco.

Yup. As stated i would like to receive the pump that was ordered by Merli. Camandcandice could u please pm me with details of how to pay, and I will give u my details. THANKS Camandcandice and Merli

ITS ON 10TH JANUARY 2004!!! entries now being taken - see JMS website!!! Hope to see a few of u there (unlike last time) Now 50 cars are entering!! unlike last time i think there were only 30?? Weather should be good this time

Yes we do read it still Cheapest option - do what RIPS does (as far as i know), buy a rb30e short motor, new rings and bearings. Buy a rb25de head, polish combustion chambers, away u go. when it blows costs less than 2g for complete motor As far as vvt goes - im not using it cos its not in the 32, and thank god cos it sounds a hassle. Normal rb25 oil pump will do. Std. pistons will cope to 250rwkw if tuning is good. HKS GT30 series is ideal for this engine. I will be running mine on for a month or so on the std rb20 turb that has been high flowed b4. Or u could go out and spend the 10K + that it costs to do the perfomance upgrade side of it.

Sorry man, but i posted after an 11 hour shift at work. But yer, the gap is way bigger than when i did mine. I only had a mate stand on the hub, and fronts only took 15 mins per side. That is a huge gap to close up.

Steve, have u got any examples of people taking the system, or regency to court and losing. What was their case against, and why did they lose? I'm just interested to see how the regency ***s got out of it.

Ok, put car up on jack. put large block of wood under axle. Let down car till axle rises. Think man!...

Arn't you only 18?? That means u've only been driving for like 2 years?? :D How do you remember the "Good old Days"

I think everyone here is arguing the same topic but missing the point. No ones argunig this point, its about why South Australia has the toughest set of rules regarding modified cars in the COUNTRY. We all would here go get the tests done, if we lived in Melbourne and had the knowledge that the engineers report was worth more than just a piece of paper i could wipe my arse with.

I agree with Steve. Why dont the people in the tuning / import industry make a stand to support the ppl like us who support them? Why?....cos when we get :shake: up the as$, who do we turn to, when our cars have to be brought back to std. Then when.....sorry, IF we make it through Regency who will happily mod our cars again???

Why does SA have a NAZI regime in the Transport regs, when Queensland is like the utopia for car owners???

Get someone to stand on axle/brake rotor to push down on the hub. Just make sure the car is on axle stands, as well as the jack for stability. If that doesn't work go buy some spring compressors. right tool for the right job

All new exhaust systems take time to "bed in"....ie flow 100 %. Mine took about 2-3 days b4 the note changed.

what about getting the border removed, so we are in Queensland.

I'd be in for that....

Use a little low strength loc-Tite on the thread, then do it up till its firm, then 1/4 more. Dont go stupid, u dont want it to be super tight so u'll never get it off......but u want it to stay on there....get it?

give it small taps with a rubber mallet. If nothing, use a bit more force.

What? You tell him the belt is off, then say "Give it a while".....:confused: