Bl4cK32

Or change the 02 sensor back to a genuine Nissan one.

Ok, probably going a bit far here, but just wanting to know for my sake.... If you had : stock height (they measure it & all is good), good tyres, then they ask for the bonnet to be lifted...and you had : stock bov, stock air box...would they still be able to send u to VIS if they had nothing to write down??

Quick question about the Bilsteins (sorry for hijack) I've got the height adjustable ones, and was wondering when they are set on the top adjustment, how far off from std. is this?

I think its www.mildrens.com.au The sell and install the Wolf v4, which is made by the same ppl - AEM

What happened to compression testing 1, 2, and 6? Seems all the engines lately have been shitting these cylinders....including mine Don't diagnose until u rule out an engine that is working 100% to start with.

Hey Steve, what rights do us as drivers have when this happens?? Can we refuse?? and ask on what reasonable grounds do they require to check it?? If u were doing the speed limit, and your car is stock height, with good tyres....What grounds do they have then that require a bonnet to be lifted?? :bs!: :bs!: :bs!: :bs!: :bs!:

So, you asked for their badge numbers, and they started being nice?? Then they only gave u a cop shop defect???

Ummm your age???

can u buy ARP bolts to replace em?

Nah, its the right photo.....The engines finished Thats what happens when someone does the 100k service and overtightened an idler bearing....

Here's a pic of my finished engine

when u overtighten a idler bearing (no it wasn't ME)

I dunno, Coz im driving a sh*tbox now, I can do what i want if someone wants to pull out, I'm not worried about my car.... (till i get the line back)

me loooves anime. Evangellion (sp?) was cool

Quick question..... Did you drop the motor in with the turb/inlet manifold all attached, or the motor was by itself? I'll post up some pics too of my conversion

Great read Steve, thanks for the heads up on the manifolds. Sh*t though about the situation though... could you sell off the manifold, dump, and buy a setup that suits the .8 ?....fark its still gunna cost either way. Guess you need to decide how much more yer gunna spend

I think it'll be like this till after the new year

B-Man Sorry to ask, but for the stupid people, like me , could you tell us what turbo that is, and what manifold? cheers

-Joel- was looking at this as well. I think it worked out like if you had 8.5:1 it would be "safer" for the engine. But it would take more boost to get it going. If you had 9:1 comp it would have better off boost performance, less boost to get it going, BUT it would have to be tuned good to prevent knocking....(like any engine i suppose)....

My mate knows the owner of Golden Grove crash. Prolly a bit far for u though

That's a good thing to do. I had my head sent to be rebuilt, but they gave it back with the cam gear etc off. That pis$es me off when places do half a job. Next time it happens, I'm gunna make sure it doesn't!

Ummmm, yes. Unless you want to destroy an engine unless you have done it b4. Being a fitter (person who removes and installs components) like me and has a rough idea how it works, is far from being a qualified person, who knows what goes where, why, what it does, and how it affects other parts. I'd leave it if your just a fitter....

Let a professional do it, or you may regret it....

Arn't they supposed to be padded anyway?? I'd rather have the risk of hitting me head on the bar, than being crushed when the car gets torn in half.....

I found a few things on the net about them, and was wondering if anyone found them to be interesting.... the first: knock sensors on engines are set to detect knock at a certain frequency range, and shaving as little as 0.5 mm from the cylinder head can render the knock sensor completely ineffective as the change in combustion chamber also changed the frequency of the detonation, and they know this because when they stripped the motor and saw the detonation damage, they knew they had not recorded detonation via the knock sensors and I am sure this would not be widely known The second: A knock sensor can usually be tested by rapping a wrench on the manifold near the sensor (never hit the sensor itself!) and watching for the timing change while the engine is idling. If the timing fails to retard, the sensor may be defective -- or the problem may be within the electronic spark timing control circuitry of the computer itself. To determine the cause, you'll have to refer to the appropriate diagnostic chart in a service manual and follow the step-by-step test procedures to isolate the cause. Sometimes a knock sensor will react to sounds other than those produced by detonation. A noisy mechanical fuel pump, a bad water pump or alternator bearing, or a loose rod bearing can all produce vibrations that can trick a knock sensor into retarding timing. Any thoughts??