luke gtr

Mate, not all mechanics ate closed until next year. I'm back at it on Wednesday. As stated above, pull the dipstick, clean it with a rag, reinsert, pull once more and check level. If on the dipstick, it is approximately 800ml from low to full. If not, add 1l, and follow the check procedure again. DON'T drive with low oil. It is highly possible all the oil is from the dipstick. Depending on engine wear(not knowing your car), its also possible the dipstick was blown out from blow by. Happened to me at the drags once. Was ok for the rest of the night. Oil went everywhere. Fill the oil, make sure the dipstick is all the way in, clean it down, and you should be ok. If you still don't feel confident checking your level, ask a family member or neighbor. Better to ask a stupid question or favour, than pay for an engine rebuild. Good luck with it mate

In rebuttal to this; I've heard that autos are around the 15-20% Manuals around 10-15%. And I would think a percentage COULD be relevant. The faster the motor turns, and gearbox and diff, the more oil will be squeezed through the oil pump, and squeezed from the gears. It's like a boat through water, the liquid can't move out of the way as fast, and it requires more power/torque to displace. This is my thoughts on the matter, unfortunately, I've never done or had the opportunity to do testing. Would love to find out though. Thanks for reading my rant.

also check the fuses under the dash, my steering became heavy for a while, checked, replaced 3 fuses and all good again. 2 weeks later went heavy again, 1 fuse was blown. easy check. good luck.

Do you link for said wilwood kit? Interested in something around that price.

$200 for the compressor. Is advise stating prices as per forum rules, as offers may offend. Good luck with sale.

+1

If you don't want to dyno the car, pull out just the injectors, and get them flow tested at a place that does injector cleaning and testing.

How are you going to sort out the twin airflow meters? Unless you swap ecus. I'd be looking at a 33 gtr ecu and loom. Then customize that to suit.

Correct, no ticking=bad Ticking=good. I've also noticed, bigger aftermarket injectors are usually louder.

Sorry mate, re-reading that, I seemed rude. I was 90% sure. The is it not comment was an invite to correct me from anyone who may have actually known. Cheers. Google saleen, so hawt......

hi all, so im putting up my yamaha r1 for sale. purchased nov 2010, i havnt riden it much. so the details: make: yamaha model: r1 year: 2010 km's:1800 colour: black and gold mods: gytr carbon mufflers with standard heat shields modified to fit. location: penrith nsw reason for selling: dont ride it. price: $16,500 neg. first pic is of brand new. second is after i installed the carbon pipes. please note, bike is still under finance, money from sale will have to be made out/given to yamaha motor finance. any questions, dont hesitate to call 0412 362 666 after hours or sms any time. thanks for looking, luke

if im not mistaken, its a saleen, is it not? hooootness....

now i want one maybe the next build. im already schemeing ways of doing the flap internal to the manifold rather than the turbo housing. and trying to make it so the gasses dont load it up too much to open with an actuator. hmmm, time to start drawing.

the only way i can think of the water contributing, is if , by pure chance, water got into that cylinder, hydraulic locked it slightly, bent the electrode to touch, and it melted from there. would be a 1 in a 1,000,000,000,000,000,000 type of thing. owuld be checking advice above, and progress from there. good luck.

I was thinking the longer arm with actuator repositioning, or an electric actuator of some specification. That's all I can think of this close to bed time.

Very interesting stuff. I like the idea very much, but think you would need a pretty strong actuator to open the flap with the pressure/flow from the exhaust on it. Maybe lengthen the actuator rod for better leverage? Will be paying close attention to all the follow ups. Thanks to those trying for the insight, for future modders...

If you start to apply a train of thought into how most things are made, it all seems cheap. Think about fuel, mining oil out in the ocean, rig workers wages, the cost of the rig itself, then transport, refinery, further transport, distribution, and then into tanks waiting to be pumped, all with more employees at each stage, all with building, electricity and water costs, plus any additives they put in, all for $1.50/l It boggles the mind sometimes.

From the universal mount flange(gearbox) to the cv mount flange(diff) is around 1050mm. In the pic, it appears to have an alloy spacer at the uni end, did you include that in the measurement? If so, what does it measure without? And is that with the cv end compressed? Just want all the facts first. Cheers.

Would be interested if it suits 32gtr, will measure it up tomorrow at work.

all fixed, turns out my reverse switch and attesa wiring had wrapped around my front tail shaft and pulled it apart. soldered back together, and all good.

For the hydraulic lines, justjap sell a bypass pipe. Goes between the 2 bolts near the rack. Easy to install, do it at the same time as the lock bar.

If you have aftermarket stereo system, some amps still drain power when the radio is off. Had an entry level fusion amp that done this. Kept killing the battery, replaces the amp, now all good.

Damn, had this problem in my gtr today. Dash went, and windows won't wind. Car still runs. Found a blown fuse. Replaced and keeps blowing. Thought you might offer some insight. Congratulations on your fix. Can anyone help with mine? Extra symptom, when you replace the fuse, the torque split gauge goes straight up and over max.

Hoooot, wish I had a 33 for this.....

It might, but i don't think it would pass adr's to allow rego, then being on the road, then getting defected....