89CAL

?? The turbo I'm going for will be 300rwkw @ 20psi on pump fuel, full boost 3700ish rpm (getting 6boost manifold) The HKS 2835KAI is only making 255rwkw @ 18psi with full boost around 3400rpm I've spoken to others and this is all they are making The Pro S that I originally wanted, sure. Would be more then happy with it But the KAI has proven to be nothing compared to the Pro S.

I'm pretty set on going Hypergear right now. After the cost and annoyance this HKS turbo has caused my I'm reluctant to go for another one (pretty sure Ben was talking about his HKS turbo he is selling) anyway, the main benefit of the Hypergear turbo is that I can just change my mind whenever if I want to go ext gate or even if I want to get updated parts/housings/wheels. It's just a bit of 'playing it safe' I guess you could say on my behalf, Stao is local and easy to contact/deal with. Having said that, its not like they are comprimising to provide any of this, I've seen plenty of good results

You can Join NRMA in Queensland, My Girlfriend and her Mum are both insured with NRMA I've been with Just Cars for the entire time I've had my car, unlimited mods. Some just require a bit of extra on your premium

Thats a small actuator on such a big turbo, so has it run this setup previously with no boost issues?

I'll have a look tomorrow (if I remember) and make up a little jumper lead to earth it to chassis. Or I might just do the full re-wire while I'm there But I have tried priming the car constantly before startup (If I hold my key just before it starts the fuel pump constantly primes) with no improvement But worth a shot anyway

Adding some throttle had no real effect on startup. Certainly didn't improve it anyway

Can you just take the plug to pirtek or something? Its just a blanking plug to block the middle port on the fuel rail right or have I misunderstood?

+1

Thread is dying Time for a Funny GIF

Oh look A unicorn

Heath Ledger..... Hugh Jackman, there all the same Rescued it with Chick in Astronaut outfit but

To easy, Thought so I'll see what happens next time I start up

Thread is heading for the wasteland.......

Makes sense I'll try and remember to do that next time I start it in the morning can you confirm theres a check valve/anti return valve in the Fuel pump to stop fuel flowing back through it?

Mind blown?

I'll keep you updated. Im thinking about ordering a new turbo this week or next week so whenever I have a new turbo (obviously) I can sell mine not keen on going N/A

Both turbo's end up flowing air to the one point. There is one intake manifold that joins all 6 cylinders

Is anyone interested in my HKS GT2835KAI turbo? Will probably look at selling it soon and just wanted to see if anyone local wants it I made 255rwkw with it @ 18psi just EOI at the moment. Probably just the turbo itself as well as the oil lines

When starting? I will try that next time. Are you thinking AAC? because I've pulled it apart and cleaned it not so long ago.

How can the AFM's control each three cylinders when the intake joins into one pipe before it gets to the intake manifold? Air metered through turbo 1 joins with the air metered through turbo 2 after the intercooler, so air from turbo 1 doesnt necessarily go to cylinders 1-3, it equally spreads between all 6

Is there any real benefit in doing this with a Nismo/Tomei fuel pump? Been thinking about doing this for a while but not real sure if its worth it

Hi I'm having a minor issue with cold start when the car has been sitting for a while. I wasnt to worried about it but recently I went overseas for nearly 3 weeks and when I got back the car would only just start and ran horribly for about 5 mins normally but it will either fire first time and die straight away, then next time it fires up alright and idles perfect Or fires up, idles jump up and down about 500rpm (between about 500-1000rpm) a few times then it idles perfect. I had a FPR laying around so decided to change mine in the off chance something was wrong with it. When I pulled mine out I noticed the fuel was slowly bubbling as if there was air trapped in the rail. Left for a while there was no fuel visible through the hole for the FPR So it looks to me like over time the fuel drains back through the pump to the tank, but I didnt think this should happen. Was fairly sure the pump has a check valve to stop this happening inside it (I have a Tomei intank pump, same as Nismo) Car also has 555cc Nismo injectors and 255rwkw. Fuel filter replaced not to long ago (Z201 from memory). I'm wondering if the check valve in the pump has failed or something, or if perhaps I'm missing something. Thanks

No I'm telling you it wont run lean enough to melt things. It wont let it go over 15.4ish:1 AFR till the ECU takes over and pulls it back. I'm not sure how the GTR's work but I'm guessing 1 O2 sensor for each 3 cylinders, so you may end up having it drive weird at cruise or fouling plugs in 3 cylinders, but I honestly dont think it could run lean enough to melt things I run 15.7:1 AFR's at cruise with no issues. Some days they even get up around 16:1 for whatever reason, and my engine is fine. I think your problem might have been your fuel pump as originally thought....

I tried.....

I'm pretty sure this would read out of limits and ignore the 02 sensor. Either that or would cycle lean-rich-lean-rich But as I said the 02 sensor is only used at cruise load cells, and as soon as it reads more then 14.9:1 AFR (from memory) it will dump fuel in. This is the cycle I was talking about. I've seen it on mine with Power FC and 02 Feedback on, it goes to target AFR (which for me was 15.5:1) then drops to about 14.3 then back up to 15.5. The cycle happens within 1 second and repeats as long as you are on cruise