89CAL

No they buzz when they start up and sometimes a little when they are running. Pull the bulb out it should say on it how many Kelvin it is rated to. as said anything about 5-6000k will have blue or purple tinge. I saw a WRX with 10,000K bulbs which were extremely purple and dull, looked like an idiot really but he thought he was cool....

Nulon is supposed to be good for the price. But I'm undecided at the moment. I've used Castrol Edge before, but didn't really like it. Hard to explain but the car just felt nicer when I went back to Motul Got 5000km before I need to service it again, with work and the amount I drive that will probably be near 6 months away lol. Plenty of time to decide what I want to use If anyone has a complete RB25 head that they want to offload for cheap let me know also

Went crazy today and put ATF in my gearbox. VE's do it so I thought I'd give it a crack suprised with it so far to be honest, is handling it quite well Going to make the switch from Motul 8100 X-cess engine oil to something else though, its just to damn hard to get in this town anymore Thinking I might go Mobil 1 but will see after a bit more research

Not sure if I'm going to get some weird looks from this but anyway Took some inspiration from the VE SS' today and thought I would trial some ATF in the RB25DET Manual box (VE SS 6 spd's run ATF as standard). So far its a bit nicer then the Syntrans I had in there (not bashing the product, it did have a bit of crap through the oil, has served me well before that) The ATF was free and worth a try so I'll see how its going in a week or two. If its no good might make the switch to Redline or Syntrax. Gearbox was rebuilt only about a year ago with new syncros on 2nd and 4th, but has been crunching 4th for the last few months. So far its not as crunchy, but see what happens over the next week

I'll say it before one of the Mods does. You will need prices on your items as part of the forum rules Good luck with the sale

What a waste

Maldanado.... how crap do you have to be to crash at a public demo. Can't wait till hes gone, Is he on contract for next year?

throwout bearing on the way out?

Girlfriend thing, I put 2 and 2 together a few weeks ago lol

Wow, sexy S15! Well captured

This (not talking pressure, but similar subject):

I already know these things haha I meant to say carbon fibre boot to BTW...... whoops So yes I might edit my post so it makes proper sense. And yes it probably will be defectable, another good reason not to do it

Ahhhh! no haha I knew someone (vaguely) with a white 34 gtt. Was a clean car, no diffuser but, unless it has one now with the new owner. Had an annoying thought today, that my car would look cool without a wing and a carbon fibre BOOT. I'm drawing the line, no more carbon fibre! lol maybe some canards and a proper carbon spoiler blade first but......

shouldnt need to remove the pillar covers to take the dash out. Ive done it in my S1 without doing so. Just keep looking you must have missed a bolt somewhere. If you can rock it at the bottom then I'd be looking at the top. Are you sure there are none through the air vents? I remember the 2 behind the demister vents up front, but other then that I dont remember alot.

I'm not arguing what we should and shouldnt use. I'm just saying what I have seen Shouldn't have opened up that can of worms. I'm not turning this into an argument, especially seen as I gave up physics years ago. It's all good think OP has disappeared anyway

KING87 Front_sml by 89CAL, on Flickr It is a very nice GTR indeed And yeah I'm not about to drop money on crank triggering. If something happens I'll buy a brand new CAS off Kudos which will be fine for the power I'm running. And I am getting pretty over dealing with ATI trying to get answers. I'll give them till the weekend then I think I'll just go with a Ross I want to get my front windows tinted somewhere, I usually take my car to Nomak for any window/widscreen related stuff but they look hell busy at the moment Anyone reccomend a good spot to get windows tinted?

White, silver and black are great for engine bays. The only thing better is swapping the silver for a brushed stainless/alumminium look havent heard back about the ATI damper, I mentioned I'm from Australia and think that scared them off. But I'll shoot an email to ATI direct to see what they can tell me. Hopefully its as simple as changing a belt or two or changing one of the pulleys Just looked up the Ross crank trigger kit, $2000....... I think I'll try my luck with the CAS first. The quick research of done, STATUS has suggested it is mainly due to the gates belts and the noise they often produce causing an oscillation at higher revs (not all cases) and its less common on RB25's then 26's and less common with Power FC's See what ATI come back with anyway, At least I have the option if i end up going a Ross

Standard ECU I'm guessing? Reset the ECU and let it idle/take it for a drive and see if that changes anything Also does the CAS sound/feel wrecked? Mine was making a slight grinding noise when it died, I pulled it off and could barely turn the shaft. Went one step further and pulled it apart, found that the bearing at the very front of the unit was dry as timing should not be 0 at idle or even 10. 15-20 degrees is about right

This is more what I was getting at. People often put -15psi vacuum, when as far as I'm aware it would be more like a fraction of 1 psi, or a positive measurement in PSIa. I'm not going to start off the whole PSIa vs PSIg argument again. I dont like using -psi because theres not really any manufacturer, aftermarket or OEM that uses it mmHg or inHg is used because it has a neutral, a positive and a negative. I've used a mmH20 gauge to measure blowby (From memory) on a diesel engine and it works really well, even if it doesnt make sense to alot of people. Most gauges now are digital anyway, which makes it easier then carrying around a long mmH20 gauge everywhere But most I've seen will change units when measuring boost vs vacuum. kPa negative, Kgcm^2 positive Anyway back on topic: As I said theres not alot of point in comparing setups as its to varied. Mine gauge will sit on -14 in summer and -16 in winter, and adjusting timing I can get it to sit anywhere between -18 and -12. I'm also running 3" Cooler piping which will make some difference

You can't really measure vacuum in psi. for what it's worth everyone's vacuum will be different. tune and setup will change vacuum at idle so it will not really help you diagnose this problem

I thought if anything the water pump pulley would be different. Ill look into it and see what the power steering pump is like on gtr's

Sweet as. Ill find out soon anyway

Cant find a solid answer if the RB26 one fits or not..... Surely they arent different, Same P/S, A/C and water pump (or near enough to) Will see what they come back with, ATI will know if it fits or not, so if there getting in contact with them I'll have an answer soon

Not always, I bought Spitfires and new plugs and my problems stayed on the stock ECU. When I got a Power FC and everything tuned it came good. This was all at around 10psi, R33's are hell sensitive about it OP: Perhaps you already have an R32 actuator on the turbo or as someone said its a highflow/different turbo to stock If you wanted to change the actuator I'd find an R33 one, Post up a photo of the turbo/actuator and someone can probably tell you what your dealing with But as people have said, run the boost source for your actuator/boost controller from close to the outlet from the turbo. Stock position is on the pipe that comes out of there, I drilled and tapped mine into the elbow off the top of the turbo when I got new cooler pipes I had 3" exhaust, intercooler, Pod filter etc on mine when I was still running stock ECU and I was still able to run 7 psi (Dont remember if I could go down to 5psi off the actuator because I dont think I ever took it that low with all the mods, Think It did go that low but)

On another note. I emailed Titan motorsport about an ATI balancer for an RB25 and they said there is no such thing and werent interested at all in helping Emailed another American performance parts shop and they are going to contact ATI or get a custom one made.... lol no idea how expensive that is or if its just like one of the others I've seen which is just a mix of a few different ATI balancers