89CAL

Spot on

I'm sorry but thats a pretty poor argument for android being more complicated. Your saying that a button that gives you the choice to have GPS with one swipe from the home screen, is mor complicated then iOS where you have to navigate through menu's to do the same thing. The GPS works pretty much exactly the same on both devices, and both have the option to have it on or off. I dont think the Android is more complicated, it just feels more complicated after coming from iOS. I just like what the widgets on the android do. The home screen personalisation is much better. While I cant say my iPhone 4 was a bad phone, I much perfer android over iOS

Really? They ran them in belgium I'm pretty sure. While watching the stream for practice they had a thing about them

The stepped nose is there to meet crash regulations I cant remember the exact specs but all the teams noses raised at to shallow an angle to meet crash standards. Because the teams had already designed the cars, the stepped nose was the answer. Mclaren and Marussia were exempt because of the way there nose designs were, or they met the regs with a front end re-design This was 9 months ago I dont remember properly lol

Take it to get plastic welded. Might need to respray it afterwards though

No worries mate. Ill try and get onto them next week

Hey Phil, do you still deal with HEL? Wouldn't mind an oil cooler kit if you can still get them

Done they are very cheap off there. Black market website?

Lol that's the go. Feels like forever since i had a holiday and it was only 3 months or so ago.

Best way to solve noise issues in your front suspension is to jack and stand the car off the ground (make sure you do this well) and shake everything around. Try and push the wheel in and out top and bottom (grab both sides and push and pull etc), then take the wheels off and just move as much stuff around as possible. then get under and have a look for worn, twisted or suspect looking bushes. run your fingers over your brakes and feel for ripples, cracks anything that doesnt feel normal. Look along the rotor for warping etc. Look at everything, tie rod ends, bushes, bolts, joints, arms, etc This is all I can suggest, Just have a good look.

Personally I'd go slightly under size, the KU31 grips well so shouldnt be a problem. The slight stretch looks good without being rediculous My old ones were about 10-20mm undersize for the rim, think they were 10. Looked pretty good: Thats just me but. Whatever your back tyres are doing (stretch or bulge) I would keep it the same up front

Developing or running one?

Might look into it when someone works out the mapping etc in a 4" pipe, as you said its at more of a devlopment stage at the moment and with a half built engine and a shrinking list of dyno's where I live, I certainly dont want to put money into it at the moment lol. The Z32 AFM will do the job nicely for the moment HOPEFULLY, it turns into a good option. But until a few people start using them I think OP will be met with alot of the same. It's to early for most to commit, especially those running higher HP

255/30R20's should work well on the rear, only .73km/h difference at 60km/h Remember you only need to look at the rear wheels for your speedo difference. However, if your car has traction control, then you may have issues if the rolling circumference is different. I'm not sure on the deal with this is Did you hear back from Ali (Taleb Tyres)? He is pretty good at working all this out, if you ask him what the best match would be he should be able to sort it out. I did next to no thinking when I got both sets of wheels/tyres off them, Ali Picked good offsets (there not aggressive but I'm not into mexican looking wheels anyway) and a good matched set of tyres. This is why I reccomend them to people, because they are good at what they do and really nice to deal with

I don't know what youre doing to flatten one of those batteries in 4 hours.... Last week I got up around 10am, unplugged my phone, used it a bit up till 3pm when i got on a bus to go out to work, listened to music the whole way and even watched an episode of top gear, then worked a 12 hour night shift using my phone to jump on the internet at both my half hour breaks and it still had battery when I finished at 6am is it possible something in your phone settings is not quite right? If it makes you feel any better, the S3 has a much more stable battery life. I found the S2 seems to have longer battery life some days and shorter others (never just 4 hours but) whereas my girlfriends S3 seems to last the same all the time. She gets about 2 days without a charge, not a heavy phone user, but not light either EDIT: I have the exact battery that has been linked on eBay, the one used to achieved the above usage

have to agree with the quali race, best of seen in V8's for years I watched some of the race because nothing else was on, but didn't really have a problem walking away from it. It's hard to watch after watching Formula 1 for so long. I guess it helps when you have a team/driver you really want to win

Yeah I know, thats not a problem. Just easier to fab into a 4" pipe rather then hacking up a Z32 AFM thats worth more apparently and then fitting that into a 4" pipe Theres a few kinks to work out in this plan by the looks of it, but it shows some promise

relevent screenshot:

That hose ends up going to the carbon canister, so if that has been removed it might explain why its been plugged. From memory, it goes to the small diaphram part at the very top of the carbon canister (theres a smaller barb for this then the rest pretty sure) as for the idle. What ECU are you running? still std? If so, as above, clean the AAC valve and have a play with your idle. You need to have the car warm and unplug one of the plugs on the TPS. Because yours is a series 2 or 1.5 engine and has the newer TPS, I'm not sure which plug it is, but its probably alright if you unplug both of them. Then it should be running purely off your idle screw setting. Adjust the screw on the AAC until its sitting happy. If you plug the TPS back in and it goes back to a higher then normal idle, then it looks like (from the R33 shop manual) that you have to play with the idle screw on the std ECU. I've never done this so not to sure what the procedure is. The book says something about putting it in "work support" mode, no idea how or what that is

See if its still running 02 feedback if you have a hand controller for your Power FC. If so then it could be your 02 sensor(s). I'm not sure how they work in the GTR's (There's 2 of them in a GTR right?) so if ones stuffed and ones good I dont know what this would do to the cruise AFR's If 02 feedback is off, Then its possible that your cruise AFR's werent tuned or werent tuned properly. I have mine tuned rather then running 02 feedback because I can run it slightly leaner at cruise AFR's. The Power FC, I think aims around 14.5:1

Phil, you home yet?

Just get a satnav or something and see how far your out with the new tyres. You'd be surprised how quick you learn what your actual speed is compared to your speedo My power fc hand controller is actually pretty close to actual road speed so i just go off that And are you sure you can't get a width/profile tyre that matches or is slightly under your rolling circumference of stock tyres? Surely if you go 10mm under or something you can find a good combo

Yeah that's what i thought. No idea who could provide/work that out but. Will see what happens with it anyway

Yeah as 3mm will be the biggest restriction on the BOV nipple then 4mm hose is fine